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Ah, well...

I don't think that's actually a conflict. The end gap ("distance between flanges") is definitiely 1/8". The problem is that whoever drew that diagram failed to account for potential name space conflicts, as we say in the software industry.

The annotations marked "A" and "B" refer to the items marked with arrows from the big letters "A" and "B" on the left side of the drawing. The little inset marked "A-A" is a cross-sectional drawing taken at reference position "A-A" defined by the vertical line with an arrow at each end pointing to letter "A" on the right side of the drawing. Because this is a cross-section position marker it occupies a different "name space" to the flange identification markers. Thus there is no connection between these "A"s and the other "A"s. They're different things!

The 1/4" dimension only defines how far from the nearside flange on the rack itself the cross-section showing the rubber button in the rack is taken.

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More issues.

Once I've set the jam nut 33 to the dimensions given in the manual (step 1)I I cant screw the  the ball joint on far enough to hit the jam nut as the thread on the rack (32)  bottoms out in nut (34)

Anyone any ideas ????

rack.jpg

rack 2.jpg

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with all the difficulties  with your rack  i wonder if its an alternative make and the processes we have all used without snags makes me wonder just what have you got

something reminds me  there were two manufacturers  ????

the recon market can produce a whole mixture 

Pete

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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

with all the difficulties  with your rack  i wonder if its an alternative make and the processes we have all used without snags makes me wonder just what have you got

something reminds me  there were two manufacturers  ????

the recon market can produce a whole mixture 

Pete

Could be Pete. I’ll try and find some washers or shims that will go between the nut 33 and item 34 to get the rack travel correct. Uggg I wish I’d just bought a recon rack!

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 a recon......that might bring up a whole new load of problems ,,,  apart from nice paint 

they will try to tell you they all the same but 6cyl has 6 teeth and 4 cyl has 7 tooth pinions 

identifies  a 6 tooth by a groove machined in the input shaft splines 

put what some sell as a fast rack on a 6 pot and you will need a trolley of shreaded wheat   Ha !  or biceps like Arnie

Pete

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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

 a recon......that might bring up a whole new load of problems ,,,  apart from nice paint 

they will try to tell you they all the same but 6cyl has 6 teeth and 4 cyl has 7 tooth pinions 

identifies  a 6 tooth by a groove machined in the input shaft splines 

put what some sell as a fast rack on a 6 pot and you will need a trolley of shreaded wheat   Ha !  or biceps like Arnie

Pete

Now that’s another issue... it’s a 6 tooth pinion but it has no groove!

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me thinks you have the rack nobody wanted   Ha !!  

does seem to be a bit of a hybrid /other make/who's make  rack  whilst the design has similarities the clues dont work 

so its now make do and mend   ??????

does it have the hole in the tube passenger side for the small nylon anti rattle plunger???? that sits under the lh mount rubber 

Pete

 

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

me thinks you have the rack nobody wanted   Ha !!  

does seem to be a bit of a hybrid /other make/who's make  rack  whilst the design has similarities the clues dont work 

so its now make do and mend   ??????

does it have the hole in the tube passenger side for the small nylon anti rattle plunger???? that sits under the lh mount rubber 

Pete

 

Hi Pete 

Yes it has the nylon plug. I just fitted a new one as the old one was missing!

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like i said  a  7 tooth on a 6 pot makes some real heavy parking   now wonder if i have that back to front !!!

the lower ratio is to combat the weight of the 6 pot 

oddly canley list 134689 7 tooth H/S/V  ???

and i cant find the ref to the 6pot groove   ...its somewhere    

Pete

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12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

like i said  a  7 tooth on a 6 pot makes some real heavy parking   now wonder if i have that back to front !!!

the lower ratio is to combat the weight of the 6 pot 

oddly canley list 134689 7 tooth H/S/V  ???

and i cant find the ref to the 6pot groove   ...its somewhere    

Pete

I think I’ve read it in the courier 

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

 confuzzled      keep taking the pills 

think stg racks are a sort of  'lucky dip'   

Pete

 

I am still pill free, except the occasional vitamin. But I am still young. At least I like to think so.

But the brain seems to be largely in holiday mode.

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4 hours ago, clive said:

I seem to have several 7 tooth pinions, but seems you need the 6? I am feeling confuzzled today!

 

I’m after a 6 tooth but have one I could swap over if needed 

also has anyone come across this with grease Le track rod ends, it hits the disk and is a larger diameter than the standard ones!

back to the non grease’abl type... I had one new old stock Lockheed hidden away at the back of a cupboard!

06D84535-70B0-45CA-B3C9-E75938908183.jpeg

7608F1BD-3A0F-48DC-A9A0-8FED038E4DDB.jpeg

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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

doesnt the stg arm have spacers ????   dont see them on parts list but something rings a bell !!!

Pete

Nope no spacers.... I’ve checked the mk3 GT6 manual as well and there’s no reference to them. 

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5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

then add some decent washers ????  ( reset the toe in)    like you sometiimes do for calipers 

def   not on any parts list but the idea is from somewhere 

I was thinking the same. It’s interesting the front bolt is exactly the right length ( one thread protruding through the nut) without the spacers though so a longer bolt is needed!

F681A7A4-B300-4B20-A44D-4F92DE3CDF62.jpeg

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