Colin Lindsay Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 On 04/08/2020 at 16:28, Pete Lewis said: chris witor is 110 +vat overdrive spares 120 + vat Just to confirm it's an NKC41? Most suppliers list it for Sprint, TR6, Stag and 2000 / 2500 so I'll need it for an 1850 gearbox? Really missed it on the run yesterday, 180 miles at 4000 rpm would have been quieter at 3500 rpm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 yes NKC041 used on all J types regardless of model or marque pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 Have ordered a replacement, £140 plus £6 postage. Couldn't be bothered faffing about with adding VAT to both purchase price and carriage like many suppliers do - even the Chris Witor version at £110 ends up over £140 all in, so just went for a buy-it-now on eBay. I've stripped the interior out yet again and tested the circuit; power gets to the solenoid in 3rd with the switch on, and stops when I flick the switch off, so the solenoid is definitely dead. I may repair it to destruction when it's removed, just for the fun. No more fuse-blowing, though - I may have cured that issue but will only be really certain once the new solenoid is fitted and works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2020 Mine does this now that it's removed and bench tested with a battery.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 so its trying to work ??? have you removed the small 10mm circlp and pulled the plunger our to check its doing a full travel and its O rings are intact if you shake the sol the plunger should clatter back and forth easily. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 How far should it move, Pete? I found that video on Youtube and it's exactly what mine is doing. I'll maybe try to find a minute later today and see if I can improve things any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 marcus did a long trial and error post about j type solenoids cant say how far it moves from memory but if it maracas when shook but you must check the 0 rings inside now you have got this far only takes a few minutes , pop the clip and the piston/plunger just slides out you cant wreck anything . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 No noise, no movement. Completely solid. By the way - who was it that posted recently about removing a solenoid, and I quote: "You'll only get a thimblefull of oil..." I've just gone out to the garage and met an entire pool of gearbox oil on the floor... mine has emptied completely. I think I misread that post... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Colin I’m confused after the video you advised yours moved like video, then in the last post you state it’s solid! similarily mine seemed not to click in the box but definitely clacked and moved after cleaning and on the bench. Marcus any feedback re amount of movement in video is it enough! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 14 minutes ago, Peter Truman said: Colin I’m confused after the video you advised yours moved like video, then in the last post you state it’s solid! I meant no noise or movement when shaken, Peter, it clicks as the video when powered up but no rattling when I shake it. No 'Pete's Maracas'... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Thanks for that clarification I’m waiting for a set of new O rings to arrive then will re-assemble and hope it moves enough I must re-read Marcus’s expose on his solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 think marcus said they had a rattle , do they have maracas in scotland my guess the 0 rings are making it sluggish i didnt get much oil from mine as i recall but .....thats on a big saloon box , so angle of dangle and levels are quite different oil on floor is a std triumphism Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said: i didnt get much oil from mine as i recall but .....thats on a big saloon box , so angle of dangle and levels are quite different oil on floor is a std triumphism Pete I had a lake..... removed the solenoid, small dribble emerged, so I wasn't too worried when it slowed to a drip. Overnight though it must have really erupted. I've managed to remove the circlip and a small brass cap with spring has reluctantly come out, but the plunger will not shift now at all. Not even the small movement I had before when connected to the battery. If the new one arrives I can refit and refill, but one question: what washer does it require? The original had a plain copper washer, but I've been reading a lot of posts on dozens of forums and some are saying it requires a dowty washer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 looking at the chris witor picture the new one could have a washer included it looks a bit dowty part no NKC108 cant get a pic of that but i reckon a nice copper washer would be ok , did the old one leak ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Both my J types had copper washers on the solenoids BUT was that original? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: but i reckon a nice copper washer would be ok , did the old one leak ??? Pete No, didn't leak at all so might just go for copper again. From the look of it, this is the first time it's ever been removed. The new solenoid has arrived and it's slightly different; leads are sealed inside the body as opposed to external spade connectors but the brass end is exactly the same. Connections here are green / white and brown - which one should I use as earth? (Am thinking brown but like to check first) Does it even matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 just looked dolly sprint wiring and that does not match as yellow/purple and black the 2000wsm dosnt have a overdrive wiring its gas powered !!! haynes makes more use but still Y/P and Slate colours doesnt help much some coils like polarity so anyones guess Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 It was listed by the seller as Triumph TR6 / Stag / 2500 / 2000 and Dolomite Sprint but I've checked most of those online and their wiring is all either black / yellow or plain green. No trace of anything similar on Volvos either. The plug-in end connection points to something modern, or more so than our Triumphs. It's just not my day; what should have been a simple fit has left me with an unidentified solenoid, no gearbox oil and a replacement tunnel from the Club Shop that has turned out to be a Herald version, not GT6. This car hates me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 I cant see on a simple coil that polarity has much effect on abench test is it more responsive than you old clickety one ?? bet if you jump it to a battery you cant tell any difference whatever way round you wire it you cant wreck it Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 think we have had this a few times off buckeye trouble is its saying the same yellow /green ,page 4/6 theres no hope Ha! https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5c6efe56e5e5f0d79fff69b4/1550777942598/J+Type+Overdrive+Part+IV.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Some coils are polarised and work better one way than the other. Relays designed for electronic operation sometimes have a built-in diode - they are essentially short-circuit if fitted the wrong way - but more often it's a case of the core being a permanent magnet to pre-load the mechanical parts. If you put the current through the right way then you only need a little current to get enough magnetic flux to operate. Wiring this sort backwards won't damage anything but they won't work. I got caught out by this on a PCB-mount relay that was available from two different manufacturers with everything identical except the coil polarity. To make it worse, the supplier I used listed them as direct equivalents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Interesting bit on that schematic about 'testing for ground on one solenoid terminal'... but doesn't say how to do it. I just need to identify which is earth and I'm happy. 52 minutes ago, NonMember said: Wiring this sort backwards won't damage anything but they won't work. Any way to tell by using a multi-meter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Unfortunately it’s the weekend (and were still in lockdown) but our old neighbour has a relatively large gear manufacturing business his nephew had a side business specialising in 4wd equipment and sold a Modern US overdrive option for the previous model Toyota Landcruiser which was a direct copy of the Laycock J type I would run down and find out if the solenoid wiring was relative it’s colours and what the solenoid looked like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Thinking about the polarity the old solenoids didn’t appear to be polarity sensitive as they just had two same sized spade terminals so supply and earth could go on either so why would it’s replacement which has flying leads be any different? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Peter Truman said: Thinking about the polarity the old solenoids didn’t appear to be polarity sensitive as they just had two same sized spade terminals so supply and earth could go on either so why would it’s replacement which has flying leads be any different? That's what I was thinking; on my old one the two terminals are the same with no identifying markings. I've just nipped out and double checked but the two terminals are the same, no marks on end plate or case. On the new one the green/white is marked A and the brown, B. It's just my luck that as soon as I make a choice, someone will post: "DO NOT under any circumstances connect the **** wire to earth..." (I've just checked the TR Register forum and they state the O/D solenoid is not supposed to be polarity sensitive so connect either way.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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