OKibblewhite Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 So, my relatively newly acquired 72 US/UK '6 has come back from having it's clutch work done after the pin through the fork and rod decided it wanted to be in 2 bits. The next things to start on are mostly electrical. Firstly Gauge bulbs. A set of ClassicCarLed's applied and things are visible again! The rheostat is still in place until I get round to the next project that involves the hole for it and a few other bits. Secondly is the headlights, the passenger side wasn't ... reliable. A bit of jiggling sometimes required with the wires in the front passenger corner needed to make it work. So. rather than dig into the loom and whatever is going on up there. I devised my own relay kit (1 relay per function (Side/Dip/Main)), with an incomer fuse into each relay, and an output fuse per side and function. Picking up the Side/Dip/Main beam 'signal' by running 3 additional wires (plus the 3+ground for each H4 connector/each side) into the passenger side bowl and then spade connectors into the H4 fitting, meaning that all the "original"(to me) wiring is still in place and untouched. Just with a second set of H4 sockets in each bowl, fed from the relays. Picked up a new 12v feed and a ground from near the fuse box. I'm not 100 happy with this just yet. Some re-routing and probably putting it through a 30A fuse in the box for ease. Fitment and wiring aren't final yet, I'll probably cover the lot in a black wrap and hide it a bit more, but it's good enough for testing. I'll be fabricating a custom 3d printed support/bracket for the Relay/Fuse holders on the bar shortly. While I was fiddling around I tried out some 7" units I had to hand... 😱😱😱 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OKibblewhite Posted July 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 I don't hate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted July 29, 2020 Report Share Posted July 29, 2020 Did, whoever fitted the new taper pin, fit an additional roll pin at 90 degrees to the taper pin.? If not then you have about 40,000 mikes before you need to fit another taper pin. Keep a careful eye on those fuses. The TR's did not have fused lights because the fuse is a weak link in reliability. You do not want a black out on a country lane. Nice looking car Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 rimmer sell a supposed heavy duty taper dowel pin for more ££s than a std. buckeye triumphs have a whole section on than darn pin https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/clutch Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OKibblewhite Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 9 hours ago, RogerH said: Did, whoever fitted the new taper pin, fit an additional roll pin at 90 degrees to the taper pin.? If not then you have about 40,000 mikes before you need to fit another taper pin. Keep a careful eye on those fuses. The TR's did not have fused lights because the fuse is a weak link in reliability. You do not want a black out on a country lane. Nice looking car Roger I believe that they did. However I'll check. As for the lights. There's no single fuse that can take out all the lights at once. And they're glow blow fuses so I'll be able to see if they've gone in the dark! And thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 Modern fuse boxes are reliable, so I wouldn't worry too much. After a loom fire, I fitted extra fuses and relays. I even have a main fuse (80A continious) that covers all circuits except the starter motor. Been happy with the results. Only fuse to blow has been the 10A which protects my ignition circuit (all main loads are relayed) as I have not (yet) relayed the starter solenoid, soon to be rectified! simple temp solution was to fit a 15A fuse. I digress.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: rimmer sell a supposed heavy duty taper dowel pin for more ££s than a std. buckeye triumphs have a whole section on than darn pin https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/clutch Pete Hi Pete, I'm sure you know this but a stronger taper pin will not survive for the same reason that the standard pin doesn't. The problem lies in the fit of the pin in the tapered hole of the shaft. If there is ANY movement between fork and shaft then the shear load that the pin is ONLY designed for takes on tensile loads. Once any granular disruption starts then it will crack pretty quickly. The easy answer is an extra (roll) pin at 90 degrees. The normal mechanism for the taper pin is a single shear set up. On my TR4 I put the pin into double shear by machining the nose of the taper pin parallel and then installing a close fitting bush into the fork to take the machined nose. A nice exercise but over kill. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 yes i roll pinned mine as in the buckeye clues was a simpler diy belt ad braces Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OKibblewhite Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 18 hours ago, RogerH said: Did, whoever fitted the new taper pin, fit an additional roll pin at 90 degrees to the taper pin.? If not then you have about 40,000 mikes before you need to fit another taper pin. Keep a careful eye on those fuses. The TR's did not have fused lights because the fuse is a weak link in reliability. You do not want a black out on a country lane. Nice looking car Roger I believe that they did. However I'll check. Interestingly it wasn't the pin that failed on my clutch! It was the thread in the fork. As for the lights. There's no single fuse that can take out all the lights at once. And they're glow blow fuses so I'll be able to see if they've gone in the dark! And thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 wow - that fork is impressive. I've never seen that failure before. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 ouch !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OKibblewhite Posted July 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 It had them scratching their heads a bit too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 30, 2020 Report Share Posted July 30, 2020 It has been tightened as much as possible just to be on safe side. Sadly it fractured the cast fork I reckon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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