Jeffds1360 Posted February 5, 2021 Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 Seeing my distributor is in bits at the moment, any recommendation on what size/strength to get? Mine seem a bit slack and need renewing. Where do I find the dizzy ref. No? I believe It's a 25D4 Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 5, 2021 Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 in general one of the two is always slack when static. parts available from http://www.distributordoctor.com/ but you need the specification numbers stamped into the base body to get the right springs Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 5, 2021 Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 Moss sell (or used to) a set of 5 springs. You use then to set the advance curve, and hopefully that takes into consideration any wear. "mapping" a distributor is not too bad, I use a glamorous assistant and a strobe. The curve for the engines is usually in the WSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 Thanks lads. I cannot find any reference numbers other than 25D with an arrow on the vacuum advance wrist?? I'm going take some pictures and post about my latest cock up soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 the spec numbers are or should be stamped into the main dizzy base body casting most GT6 in the wsm are all seeming Delco D 200/ 202/D204 depends on eng numbers one ref to Lucas a 22D6 spec number 41168 (9.5:1 CR ) the numbers stamped in the vac unit are eg 4-11-7 being when vacuum starts the max vac and the max deg advance produced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 Cannot find it on my 25D in my 1971 13/60 cv Pete. Must be hidden under the vacuum advance. I'll get a mirror and stand on my head??!! I've got problems. New post soon about my contact breaker plates. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 im going covid ,, sorry should be looking at 13/60 must start taking more pills s Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 getting my jab tomorrow 2:45pm Wife is at 4:50pm ........not stopping there 2 hours!! Still, only 3.5 miles away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 tip always a squirt of oil down under the base plate to lube the top spindle bush, may have a felt oiler down under delco suffer from lack of lube lucas not so bad , as this is not realy engine lubricated , its a service item for a human with oily can pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 Just need a couple of old springs and sod the advance curve. Just want it to run Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 just fit the new one and all tickety boo that tempered spring is to make contact between the two plates not out in fresh air Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Cheers Pete, I'll sort that when I refurbish it. It is off now and is a 41127 with an E after and 44 70 below. The vacuum unit is fur-barred, ( my what a tiny cir-clip !!!) I assume the rod and spring are meant to move in unison in and out??? mine do not move at all ! How much force should I apply ? and do I push in or out and how much play should they have? I need to know the spring sizes too as mine are too warped to measure ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Do you mean the threaded rod with the little circlip on the end Jeff? Thats fixed into the body of the vac advance unit and its to allow you to wind the whole thing backwards and forwards so rotating the dizzy backplate to change the spark timing (its a fine method of doing this rather than undoing and turning the whole dizzy body). The long spring is attached to the diaphragm so its this that is moved back and forward by vacuum - you should be able to push it in with light pressure and feel the resistance of the diaphragm and then it returns. The free to download workshop manual has good exploded diagrams and explanations of the distributor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Ah! Right. The spring only pushes in about a millimetre. It does not pull out. Is that your wsm (which I have not found) or the one referred to by Pete in the other post. Off for my jab within the hour so clean hands needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 No sorry my original post wasnt very clear, Ive downloaded a manual from the site Pete indicated and its a copy of the official Triumph workshop manual. 'Mine' is for a Vitesse/GT6, it covers some components which are common to other models but theres also specific WS manuals on there for them as well. With your vac advance I would expect more movement of the spring/diaphragm and I take it sucking on its inlet pipe still doesnt produce any? You can try spraying oil in around the spring to free off the mechanism but if this doesnt work it looks like its scrap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Fair do'es Johny. I have a wsm from '64 and most is similar. Away out now. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Have a look at this site: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/pdf/tuning_lucas_dist.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Good read! All I have to do is get my calipers out and measure the pin distances, then I can work out which length and strength springs to get. Pleased I have that 45D coming!!! I've just had my jab, in and out in 15 mins + 15 (5!) Taking wife up in an hour, as it happens, there were many cancellations and could have come in with me !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 give the dizzy doc the 25d4 41172 and he can give you all the right parts to match that spec. the 44 70 is build date ie week 44 1970 the circlip on the threaded end is only to stop you winding it completely off so it doesnt matter much i have many dizzy curve data sheets and lucas spec number breakdown but all are 197 at 41176 on and cant get2 for you there will be a strong and a weaker spring measuring the posts wont make it right you might as well tie it up with some wire get the right parts or just fit your new unit retime after fitting Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Will do Pete Thanks Colin, covers the 12/50. Hope I can get my tick-over down 1200<3000 not a problem, about 9-20 degrees should not be a problem. Not looking for racing spec. more just efficiency. Thanks all. 45D4 due tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 take care with any dizzy data most advance testing is done decelerating which gives very different results to accelerating so check the small print pretty much all the test data in triumph WSM is like that and in warranty we always tested throttling back not building up the revs and all the test curves in my Lucas data manual are decelerating if thats a good clue Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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