Peter Truman Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 Does any one know why Leyland chose to switch from studs for manifolds and fuel pump mounting on previous Triumphs to tapped bolts direct into the block and head with the Sprint and presumably Dolly 1850 and TR7. I've just had to remove and refit the fuel pump on the Sprint what a pita, reason to stop an oil leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 Possibly accessibility? With a stud you need to position the unit so that it slides onto the stud, so it takes an inch or two more space than just setting the unit in place and inserting a bolt. On the other hand, it was probably cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 I think the latter one item vs two a stud and nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 24, 2021 Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 access is the key player and throw in an inclined engine as in a the next derivative a Stag you could not remove much if on studs hence removable headed studs in hard access places like cyl heads etc Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2021 Good point re access Pete but the Sprint fuel pump has reasonable access just awkward but I suppose the designers decided to use bolts on all fitting as a matter of policy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 Think I've worked out why the original Leyland manufacture were bolts not studs! I undid the work I did yesterday in sealing the leaking pump to block gasket & removed the pump again and replaced the bolts with studs mounting the pump was easy BUT the bottom of the pump body flange sat proud from the block face. I checked the new gasket which appeared to be the same size and profile of the pump mounting flange and it seated OK but when I offered the pump to the studs it sat proud at the bottom ie wouldn't seat home, replacing the studs with the bolts you could fit and seat the pump flange then fit the bolts thro with a little juggling, obviously unnecessary fine tolerances. I wanted to persevere with the studs so I trimmed a little off the bottom of the pump flange which was beveled outwards midway thro a cross section of the flange, this enabled me to ensure the pump flange seated flat to the block mounting using the studs. I'll let the aviation gasket goo set overnight then check for leaks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 Well that didn't work!! took the car a drive around 10klm got home under the fuel pump appeared dry, but with engine off and as I watched oil started running out from under the bottom of the fuel pump to block joint, bugger! I've had this problem before on my Vitesse but only a weep so and I changed to a blanking plate and an electric pump in frustration. Anyone got any ideas, the fuel pump bolts are high up & off horizontal centre so the pressure on the bottom mating face is reduced? I've tried Sika make a gasket and aviation non setting gasket goo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted April 26, 2021 Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 Thicker gasket paper to give it something to bite onto, blue holmer (can't spell it correctly!) To help seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 26, 2021 Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 Blue Hylomar (hermetite is even worse to spell) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted April 26, 2021 Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 Just now, Badwolf said: Blue Hylomar Thats it, just one of those annoying thing's, can't spell to save my life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 Thanks off to the Auto Store tomorrow for thicker paper and blue hylomar, used to have a tube somewhere Also noted track rod end boots have gone fortunately same as Spit & Vitesse so I have new spares on a new (not reco) spare Spit Steering rack sat on the shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 26, 2021 Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 i know things move on but on production trials loctite 574 solved all leaky sweaty gasket face leaks for good. when compared to a whole spattering of commercial sealers around 20 were trialled sets solid where air is excluded I still use it on any face to face joints a little goes a long way its a bullet proof sealer pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted May 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 Continuing on the Sprints fuel pump oil leak problem I mounted the pump using the studs instead of the original bolts, and blue hylomar on both surfaces let them get tacky dry and then fitted the pump. Went a 30klm drive no oil leak until I stopped in the garage turned the engine off then after around 1 min or so an oil run started from around the rear possibly mounting stud area and ran slightly/dribbled for around 5 min, I had also tapped and plugged the little breather hole in the back side of the mech pump. I'm getting to the point of giving up on the mech pump, fitting a blanking plate and converting to an ECCO electric pump. Any ideas why it only leaks after turning the engine off not when running, I'm pretty sure that I achieved a seal on the pump/block mounting, could the oil be coming down the bolt/stud thread in the block, but why does it only leak after the engine is turned off? The sump/engine breaths/bleeds off to the carbs and carbon canister so it shouldn't build up any pressure. Any ideas from the brains trust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 On 26/04/2021 at 10:03, Pete Lewis said: i know things move on but on production trials loctite 574 solved all leaky sweaty gasket face leaks for good. Bought a tube at your recommendation and have used it extensively since, so will be sealing two halves of a diff together within a few days - not trusting the paper gasket alone; if it leaks it'll be nice to have someone to blame... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 water off a ducks ????? 3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: it'll be nice to have someone to blame.. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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