Ziggy Posted June 13, 2021 Report Posted June 13, 2021 Tr6 1973. After finding my rear brakes had not been working for a long time, I have removed both adjusters, cleaned and refitted them, replaced both cylinders and springs and renewed both rubber hoses, and now they work very well, but after bleeding them the pedal travels half way down even though the brakes work well. There is no leak from anywhere and the reservoir stays full. I have replaced the rubber washer on the front of the servo and fitted new pipes above the injectors, so does this only leave the servo that could be faulty, or am I missing something?
Pete Lewis Posted June 13, 2021 Report Posted June 13, 2021 did you lock up the adjuster with the handbrake cable still attached if so you need to disconnect the cable really lock up the drum /adjuster and reset the cable to suit only then de adjust the adjuster to free the drum its my guess the cable is holding the shoes open gives you a low firm pedal Pete
Nigel Clark Posted June 15, 2021 Report Posted June 15, 2021 All TR6s have dual circuit brakes. The symptoms you describe could be due to air trapped, not having bled fully, in one of the hydraulic circuits. Nigel
Pete Lewis Posted June 15, 2021 Report Posted June 15, 2021 good call is the pdwa valve actually working and was it set /reset when bleeding Pete
dougbgt6 Posted June 15, 2021 Report Posted June 15, 2021 Doesn't the pdwa have a warning light when it senses an imbalance? Bulb could be blown of course. Doug
Pete Lewis Posted June 15, 2021 Report Posted June 15, 2021 yes if the nasty push button is actually working the warning lamp gets a blip from the oil pressure switch to test the bulb is working when you first switch on you should bleed F & R together or the shuttle moves (as it should) but if not you have to manually reset it by remove switch and a prod with a screwdriver to recentre the shuttle piston Pete
Nigel Clark Posted June 15, 2021 Report Posted June 15, 2021 Early TR6s didn't have a PDWA or warning light, though Ziggys 1973 car probably does. Nigel
Pete Lewis Posted June 15, 2021 Report Posted June 15, 2021 1 hour ago, Nigel Clark said: Early TR6s didn't have a PDWA Gosh was the early warning system a tree or a ditch ??? Pete
Nigel Clark Posted June 15, 2021 Report Posted June 15, 2021 5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: Gosh was the early warning system a tree or a ditch ??? Pete Soft brake pedal is the only warning, well that and reduced brake efficiency. Still better than a failure in a single line hydraulic system! Nigel
Ziggy Posted June 16, 2021 Author Report Posted June 16, 2021 On 15/06/2021 at 12:14, Pete Lewis said: good call is the pdwa valve actually working and was it set /reset when bleeding Pete Thats only on LHD cars, so mine does not have one.
Pete Lewis Posted June 17, 2021 Report Posted June 17, 2021 so a bleed is best quick down stroke nip the bleed slow back stroke and reopen the bleed and repeat ??? best to have the bleed bottle up high above the wheels so air always rises .yes you need 6 pairs of hands so some assistant required when you push down is there/was there any small bubbling in the M cyl reservoir ???? make sure the hand brake cable is not holding the rear shoes open ,as i said discon the cable and fully /hard adjust to lock the drums fit the cable to just a nice fit and then de adjust to free the drum Pete
Peter Truman Posted June 17, 2021 Report Posted June 17, 2021 also make sure you don't slacken the bleed nipple to much that you can draw air in down the threads into the bleeding poly pipe, some people use plastercene or blue tack to seal the bleed nipple during bleeding. The biggest problem I have is keeping the bleed hose on the bleed nipple, gawd it makes a mess when it slips off!
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