Sound deadening and heat insulation and window glass runners

[BrianY]

Hi guys . looking for some advice please.  I want to put sound deadening material inside the doors on the inner surface of the door skin. I have used self adhesive bitumastic before  on the sides of my van but some of it fell off with the summer sun so before I would use this on the car I thought I would seek advice as there seem to be foam based products available now and I was wondering if these are an improvement. or not .Any recommendations would be welcome. 

I have repaired my bulkhead and it is ready for painting. While it will be a few months before I am ready to paint the rest of the car I was thinking about getting the bulkhead painted soon  so I could test the colour and then assemble it onto the chassis and do some build up etc. Should I cover it with a self adhesive material , (there are foam and foil products out there)  after I paint it but before I assemble it and fit dashboard or is that a bad idea and I should just fiddle bits of the insulation in once the whole thing is build up? Again any recommendations on products. I see from an internet search that there is one company offering precut foam type material for Heralds

 The window glass runner on the door lock side is as you all know a straight felt covered steel channel wit three brackets riveted on . I have new channels but need to transfer the brackets . Any advice on riveting these onto the new channels would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

[Pete Lewis]

10 minutes ago, BrianY said:

Any advice on riveting these onto the new channels

yes take photo's or sketches the brackets will mess you around they are craft beggars and you can easily end up with all the wrong hnded assy     there are Tee shirst for these 

as for rivets if you use pop rivets you need a extended nozzle or use a piece of steel tube./ drilled rod to add 10mm to the depth so you get it fully down inside the channel 

Pete

[BrianY]

Thanks Pete, I was thinking that my pop rivet gun might not fit and ruled them out but that is a good idea with the tube. . Not a job I am looking forward too as so many way for it to go pear shaped. Might try to make a jig that will hold them in the correct position.  I had been thinking of wee brass rivets but pops would be handier. Thanks Brian

[dougbgt6]

Brian,

Along with a few on here I used Silent Coat on the bulkhead, floors, doors and inside the tunnel. Been on for 4 years (?) no sign of falling off. I treated and re-painted floors before applying. It is VERY sticky and surprisingly heavy.

Doug

[Badwolf]

+1 here for Silentcost. Also Dodomat gets good reviews.

[Pete Lewis]

i came across the lh rh this way that way when i did mine 

used a full length of channel before i actually made a set with every bracket the right way round 

despite notes sketches (phone cams wernt about )   and it drove me mad 

why they are so cunning i dont know and i thought i knew what i was doing     Grrrr   job 

if you get it right first time you get a house point  Ha 

Pete

 

[trigolf]

Having had the same problem getting a poprivet gun into the channel, I used brass countersunk 3.5mm screws and nuts. The countersunk head sinks into the felt channel and did not foul the door glass edge

[BrianY]

Thanks Guys for the advice. On the sound deadening I have looked up both Silent coat and Dodomat and there is one company in Oxford that supplies both. They both seem to have similar products, in fact a bewildering range of products, and possibly the Silent coat appears to be cheaper. They offer a Silentcoat starter pack and a low price so I think I will phone them and discuss what is best and take it from there.  I will start with the doors !

 On the window guides I think I will order some brass screws and nuts as I think a smoother inner surface might be achievable and easier to sort than if I screw up with a pop rivet that doesn't want to play ball.

 

Once again many thanks for the advice,   Brian

[Badwolf]

Got mine from here through fleabay..

https://www.deadening.co.uk/

Probably the same company. Very good service.

[BrianY]

Hi Guys just an update. I bought a clatter of Silentcoat and self adhesive isotator foam. Ordered it on Monday and received it on Wednesday at minimal shipping costs. Excellent service from the supplier. Really sticky backing and after putting a trial sheet onto the door skin I cannot see any problems covering the remainder. Just a bit of a fiddle getting it into place. 

On the glass guide I successfully fastened the brackets with 3mm by 10mm countersunk slotted head brass screws. Looks ok to me and the heads sunk in nicely to the felt covering so think all will be well.

 Thanks for the advice. Brian

[Badwolf]

BrianY - If you apply it to an undulating surface like the floor pan a 2" plastic wallpaper roller and a warm air source like a hairdryer are very useful.

[PeteH]

If you apply a little heat as B-W suggested, you will be OK. Roller it and get the maximum adhesion. It stick`s like the proverbial S***t to a blanket. I put some in the "wrong" place and it was a Bitch to remove!!.

Pete