Mjit

Wasted spark ignition just means each spark plug is fired once for each revolution of the engine. In a 4-stroke engine there's only something for the spark to ignite in the cylinder every second revolution, at the end of the compression stroke. The other spark that happens at the end of the exhaust stroke has nothing to burn so is a 'wasted spark'.

Multi electrode plugs, be they Bosch/SplitFire/etc only have one benefit - longer service intervals between needing to adjust the spark plug gaps...which on a lot of members cars will be "never". One electroide is always closer than the others, so the one the spark jumps to. Over time the electrode burns down until it's no longer the closest, at which point the spark naturally jumps to the new closest electrode. At a guess a bit of fouling on a single electrode plug and that's all she wrote. On a multi electroide plug the spark will just jump to the next, hopefully less fouled electrode, with the then running engine able to 'clean up' the fouling.

If you go full MegaJolt, etc electronic ignition then you MUST have resistive plugs (and matching HT leads). I don't know what 123 say for their kit but most "points replacement" systems are just hall effect sensors so don't need 'R' plugs.

Best - full mappable electric ignition, such as MegaJolt. Good side - rock steady spark at the right time, every time/better performance/better fuel economy. Flip side - most work (mounting a trigger wheel on the crank pully/crank sensor 1mm from trigger wheel/Ford EDIS moduel/Ford coil pack/MegaJolt unit/wiring) plus rolling road session to get the best from it. Next - Probably a 123 distributor. Good side new, so takes dizzy wear out of the equation and mappable to one degree or another. Flip side - expensive and still less accurate than crank trigger wheel (fewer data points per revolution). Third place - The rest. Good side - cheap, (should be) more reliable than points, and can cover up some dizzy wear. Down side - can't cover up all dizzy wear and still stuck with standard, compromize advance curve. Probably the best option for a standard engine with a dizzy in good condition. For a standard engine and dizzy in good condition one of the basic 'points replacement' systems is the best starting point if you're just trying to make things more reliable. On the other hand if the engine's standard but the dizzy past it's sell by date then a 123 dizzy if you're scared of wires/mappable if you're not. For a tuned engine I'd say jump straight to mappable ignition. My car was always compromized on a mechanical dizzy, needing 3000RPM for pull away or running out of puff at 400RPM. Since going MegaJolt it's happy from 2000-6000RPM, with more get-up-and-go than any dizzy setting and better fuel consumptions too (on a long drive where I'm not using that better get-up-and-go too much).

While the mixture COULD be that far out, so worth checking (wind just up will flush with the carb throat, then back down (from memory) 2 turns to get a starting point) but I'd say unlikely so check/replace the hoses that go from each carb -> T piece -> rocker cover too. I've had one of these split - the car would drive fine till I gave it some beans, at which point it would only run with the choke out. The split would normally sit closed and all was well, but a bit of aggression would vibrate it open, letting loads of extra air in after the carbs and weakening the mixture to hell.

I managed to keep the standard cover with a (I think 3/4") lowering block but did need some creativity. Fit longer studs. Fit nylock. Hacksaw studs flush with top of nylocks. ...run around on a Saturday trying to find somewhere to buy pair of 3/8" UNF half nuts so you can remove the studs the next time you need to remove the spring.

I've got lowering block+longer studs on my Spitfire and have to remember to roll the spring top forwards after sliding it across the car and before seating it so I can drop the studs through the spring box. There's then (just about) enough room to giggle everything in to position.

How does the engine height compare to the height of the standard petrol tank sat atop the diff? It LOOKS like you'll have a huge boot buldge...but easy to forget how tall the petrol tank is with no bodywork on the car. Or is that just an excuse to go for a GT6-like couple rear body...?

Think about how they move when you're driving. Turn the wheel to full lock and you twist the upright to either the left or right relative to the lower wishbone - and it's the thread on the bottom of the upright sitting in the thread in the trunnion that permits this to happen. Screw them up tight and you'll be forcing them to turn even further when you try to steer. Unlikely to end well. So screw them up the thread till they stop, then back down till pointing the right way to bolt up - and able to turn left/right for full lock (which is quite a long way on the small chassis Triumphs.

Tanks folks but managed to work it out through trian and error, just shoving long and short bolts in different holes to see what combo gave the same amount poking out the far side

So took the (big, single filter in a saucepan) air supply parts off my scrapper 2000, cleaned it up, fresh coat of paint and gone to fit it to be better 2000 and...those air box->carb bolts AREN'T all the same size, but 2 different lengths (and one UNF, but let's not go there). Anyone know where the three longer/three shorter bolts go? Nothing in the ROM and my parts book's 150miles away. Cheers

Sounds like the Night Pannel button you used to get on Saabs, which switched off all dash lights except the speedo. Tried it once - it just felt so wrong

Yep, replaced the 'random dangling bulb on just the driver's side' courtesy light with strips on both sides. Can't say I find the gauge lights distracting in my Spit. The badly adjusted, over-dazzeling headlights of cars behind me in my mirrors, yes, but not the gauge lights.

I've got stick-on, white LED strips stuck to the under side of the parcel shelves in my Spitfire, connected to the door switches and don't think they're too white. Especially with a black interior those footwells are like black holes! For the rest of your LEDs I'd recommend https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/. I used eBay specials on my Spitfire and was always a little underwhelmed. I used Classic Car LEDs on my 2000, initially for the multi-indicator unit but then the rest of the dash and much more impressed. They also have an article on the different spectrums (spectra?) of light from different sources, which I think explains my reaction to the eBayed ones in my Spitfire.

Interested to hear how you get on with the clutch - mine was right on the floor too and one clutch master cylinder/3 clutch slave cylinders (with a load or spacer nuts so full throw on the slave isn't the pedal-up positon) and it's now...about an inch off the floor.

The only relays you may need to change swapping bulbs to LED is the indicator/hazard ones. From memory the much lower electrical load of LEDs means the original mechanical, bi-metallic strip ones don't heat up enough to flip them on and off. Options are to add a resistor to increase the load, or swap the mechanical flasher relay for an LED-friendly electronic ones If you've already swapped to electrical flasher relays some will work, some won't, so suck it and see and order an LED-friendly one if necessary. Personally I'd swap to an electronic one as it means pushing less down the wires and will flash your indicators much more consistently and reliably than the mechanical ones.

OK, so my new 2000 had OK brakes but some really nasty looking fluid in the reservoir so drained down, replaced rear cylinders and swapped flexible pipes for the braded ones off my dead 2000, and bled each corner working towards the m/c. Good solid stream of fluid coming out each and with the engine off a nice solid pedal. Switch the engine on and very soft, taking a few pumps to get a solid/top of the press pedal. So back around bleeding each corner again and, other than some bubbles from air in the bleeder pipe/bleed nipple on the first press still straight to a solid stream of fluid on each corner. Start the engine again and...still takes a few pumps to get a solid/top of the press pedal! Does that sound like it's still an air issue (and if so any tips) or could it be a servo one?

Actually it's not either a quality control or design/manufacturing issue, it's the fact that from eBay you were probably buying ones taken from the 'rejected' bin.

Screen fitting really is one of those jobs best left to a pro. Can well remember spending hours with my dad trying to refit the screen to my Spitfire, just resulting in a screwed rubber and a screen still not fitted. Gave up, bought new seal, pro turned up and had the screen in, in under 10min.

I have probably spent more money on brake bleading than any other tool and the one I always end up back to is the cheap-as-chips Visibleed (usually bleeding on my tod). They don't last for ever - but also only cost £3.50! I've got one of the eBay versions of the MM tool and never seem to be able to get a tight-enough fit to the bleed nipple, so you just get 'foam' as it pulls more air around the seal than flud through the nipple (even with 68viteesse's greasy nipples).

If they are the original bullet connectors I'd be tempted to replace the joiner blocks. Was fiddling with headlight wiring the other day and found one of the joiners was getting very hot, very quickly. Swapped it with the other beam one and same connector got very hot quickly again. Swapped it for a new one and no heat, so much have been corrosion/internal cracks in the metal giving it a very high resistence. Not sure i'd say swap them if everything was fine but if you're fiddling with them anyway...

A lot of the stripyness is lost when you rub the satin finish, though is also down to the specific bit of tree your vaneer comes from - my dash vaneer's much more stripy than my doors for example. With hindsight I'd have tried to use the same cut for all, but I had a choice of cuts that were long-enough for the doors but too narrow for the dash, or wide-enough for the dash but not long-enough for the doors - and the whole putting a join and mirroring was a load of extra work I couldn't be bothered with (and I'm sure Triumph weren't that picky back in the day either). I'll try and get some pictures of my dash/door cappings up but I'm not expecting them to go quite as yellow as the old ones, mainly because a lot of that was fading/yellowing of the varnish coating and modern ones have better UV protection to stop that happening!

The general opinion seems to be that the vaneer is American Black Walnut, but 'straight' rather than burr vaneer. I've just re-done the vaneer in my 2000 and it's not too hard - and will be a lot easier on a Spitfire as everything's flat, rather than curved one way or another (AKA a pain to sand). If you're looking to do it yourself the main personal advice I'd give would be to find someone who can cover all your vaneer needs with multiple slices of the same piece as I have ended up with quite a colour difference on my vaneers (though thankfully that's dash vs. door cappings, not across the dash). I used a mix of https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-re-veneer-my-cars-wood-trim/ for applying the vaneer/applying Rustin's Plastic Coating/sanding Rustin's, and https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/rubbing-great-finish-satin-gloss/ for getting the satin finish.

Only possible issue is if the external feed was fitted with the standard oil feed up through the head blocked off, though that would put you in the 0.5% of engies fitted with external feeds group. I've been playing the same game with my big saloon and the advice on here (https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/5146-external-oil-feed/) was to run the engine with the rocker cover off, looking for a seep/slow dribble of oil slowly forming a pool on the head. If you get that with the external feed removed your internal feed is fine and the external one just over-oiling the rockers. If you don't then you might want to look further. Like clive I bought a shiny new performance engine from a Triumph specialist that came fitted with an external feed. Removing it: 1. REALLY cut down the engine's oil consumption. 2. Stopped the car behind me getting a spray of engine oil at start-up. 3. Has resulted in no long term rocker issues. My big saloon looks like it might have been done properly (if unnecessarily) - but the only way to check is to remove the head and I just can't be bothered

Now if I could just work out where I put the banjo bolt😒