Mjit

Got one of the TSSC boot kits on my MkIV from back when they first came out. Never given me any issues and still working today. Only 'issue' I did have was that it put a slight side loading on the boot, so the lid didn't align after just swapping standard->hydraulic. Simple to sort with a bit of hinge fertling, just remember to fix and then carefully close checking the gaps first time rather than just slamming it closed!

It's likewise amazing how much water remains in the engine block...when you've drained the radiator but forgotten to remove the block drain plug before removing the head...😞

Yep, got that (oil soaked) t-shirt too. Always turn your head away when removing sump plugs or other 'oil retaining' items too - I've yet to taste a motor oil that's splashed on to my face and into my mouth that I liked the taste of.🤢

I've re-done the wood in both my 2000 and Spitfire and would say: I've yet to cleanly remove the lacquer from ANY piece of Triumph wood. Either one bit of vaneer will be stuck better to the lacquer than the base wood, so come off, or I had to spend so long in an area with the heat gun to get one bit of lacquer to soften than a neighbouring bit of vaneer burns slights, or trying to sand through one spot of lacquer you realise you've also sanded through a neighbouring piece of vaneer too But re-vaneering isn't actually too hard - especially for flat pieces (the 2000 curved drivers dash panel is a real PITA and I found worse than the door cappings). If you need to keep the car on the road buy a second hand set of wood off eBay and either revaneer that or fit that while you revaneer yours. Follow https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-re-veneer-my-cars-wood-trim/ After a couple of light coats to seal the surface really pile on the Rustins Plastic Coating - you're not trying to bush on the smooth finish, but get a good thick layer on and then sand back to a flat smooth one. While wood's a natural material, so different pieces are different colours don't worry too much if it comes out too light - the wood in my 2000 has really mellowed after 12 months of UV. The Spitfire's still lighter than I'd like but that's spent more time than usual in the garage vs out in the sun since I reveneered it over the last winter, due to Covid. If you're going to do the door cappings as well but enough wood for the lot, with spare in one go, as consecutive sheets of the same cut of wood. The new wood may not end up the same colour as the original (+ its 50 years of 'maturing') but at least all the wood will be the same colour (unlike my 2000 where I DIDN'T do this - but still better than it was, so happy). Oh, and only go for a burr finish if you REALLY want one. 'Non-burr' vaneers are both much easier to work with (no flattening required) and you get a lot more choice in which area of the vaneer to use for each panel (with burr vaneers things like the glovebox lid MUST be done using the piece of vaneer cut out from the glovebox hole in the surrounding panel or the miss-match in the complex pattern really stands out - with non-burr you can maybe have an ugly but of the vaneer in the hole, then cover the lid with a different part of the same sheet and you can't tell when it's all done and fitted).

Humm, does it? Does a spark not travel (near enough) at the speed of light, like lightening? I'd accept it might take longer to initiate the spark, as you need to build up enough potential to actually jump the insulating air gap and a bigger gap means more potential required to reach the tipping point, but once you've hit that tipping point I thought the spark itself would travel as the speed of light. And the reason moden cars/uprated classic can run a bigger spark is because they have more powerful coild/coil packs that can generate the necessary potential in the available time.

Sitting high is just down to the spring being a) Needing to settle. b) Being new but compared to some tired, sagging 40+ year old one that's technically been sitting too low. Lowering blocks are normally a personal choice and down to people wanting their cars to sit lower/have more static negative rear camber than standard, rather than being to counter new springs being too high.

The galvanic/electrolytic corrosion is the least of your worries. That will generally attach them more firmly...and just mean they get buggered when you need to take them off, giving you the opportunity to replace them with steel. The worry is the fact that, unlike steel aluminium doesn't have a fatigue limit, so every time the wheel goes around and the loading changes it gets a little bit weaker until at some point it either fails in spectacular fashion or (more likely) becomes loose and starts to vibrate undone.

Deff. go for the steel nuts...or live your life in paranoia, checking the (quite low because they are alloy) torque on the OE ones. Had an alloy one fire off with a bang once - thankfully about a mile from my destination...and not on one of the previous 100-odd motorway miles!

Or just wait a couple of weeks. Something will come up...

Yep, not sure where I got matt from...

Looking around I'd say both Mk IV and 1500 rear wing trips should be matt black, while the one on the boot rear lip/around the light panel should be stainless on a Mk IV but matt black on a 1500. I think you'll find the 1500/black ones are exactly the same as the Mk IV/stainless ones, just painted black.

If you still want to go LED try classiccarleds.co.uk - they do both positive and negative versions of a lot of their LED bulbs.

Do you have any vertical adjustment left where the hood frame bolts to the C post? You might be able to losen the bolts/pop the popper on, then bush up/tighten the bolts to get a better fit.

Could be worse. I mean it's not like you had a friend in the car who you confessed to having miss-fueled your diesel car with petrol a few weeks previously...before pulling in to a pterol station to fill up and putting another tank of petrol in your diesel car. I was the friend and no, I've not let the driver forget it

Does it make any difference if you double de-clutch, so clutch down/in to neutral/clutch up, clutch down/in to 3rd/clutch up?

Would have expected almost any colour but rust red if there was threadlock. Maybe a quick dip in a pool of salty water before fitting, to get a good strong rust lock (TM)?

I have to say my Trakrite sits on the same dusty shelf as my Clickadjust. Buggered if I could get it to tell me anything but maybe I should give it another go some time.

Popped out to look at mine and it doesn't look as loaded as that - but very hard to see with a full engine bay. It could just be the angle you're looking at it from, or rather the only one I can look at mine from, which is basically just between carbs and inner wheel arch. From there it seems to be a small twist in the rubber coupling, with a much bigger angle change down at the lower/metal UJ. I guess the other thing is where do you have the steering wheel set, and does raising/lowering it change the position of the shaft at the rubber coupling (don't know if it does - never had to look at that end of things)?

1) What do you need? I'd more say "What do you have kicking around the garage/boot of the car?". To keep it cheap and if you don't have anything kicking about you could pop one of the reversing light bulbs+holder and hack that in to the circuit. Other than that a crimp on male+female bullet connectors, a bit of wire and whatever you need for the bulb/buzzer (a pair of crimp on female spade connectors if using the reversing bulb). 2) How do I? I'd expect the column switch to be wired using bullet connectors, so you need to: a) Crimp a male bullet to the end of one piece of wire and a female to the one end of the other piece of wire. b) Connect the other ends of those wires to your buzzer/bulb. If using the reversing bulb one goes to the standard connection post and, as the bulb (should) earth through the metal-bit-that-clips-it-in-to-the-rear-lamp-body connect the other wire to that (butchering the spade connector as necessary). c) Split one of the O/D switch bullet connectors and reconnect via your new test wire. d) Switch on the ignition, put the car in 3rd and flick the O/D switch. The circuit SHOULD open so the light come on. e) Assuming that's good, it's road test time. unplug the switched one (which you can identify via a process of elemination if you don't have a multimeter - will come to that) and

I'd go with "as much as you can". Mine was close, but not touching when first fitted... At least it was close, but not touching parked up with the bonnet freshly closed. A quick trip up the motorway settled the bubber cones a little lower and revealed a good amount of flex in the bonnet panel at 70MPH. I ended up dropping the rad. slightly and adding a pad of stick-on foam to the underside of the bonnet so any further contact had some padding, rather than hammer action. This was also the point I discovered that the d/s bonnet bracket is already at it's highest point...while the p/s one is near the bottom. Either some hinge box alignment or chassis twist issues in there somewhere

Personally I'd drop it back down on the ground to test. Sure, it's a pain and 5min work taking it off the stands/putting it back up if issues persist - but a lot easier than repairing the front of the car and garage door/rear wall... You also need to have the stands under the bottom of the vertical link, otherwise the drive shafts will normally be running in contact with the top of the chassis rails. Could be worth temp. wiring a buzzer or bulb in to the o/d electrical circuit. Yes, annoying to have it buzzing/shining away the whole time you're in o/d but will tell you you have an electrical, rather than oil issue if it doesn't.

Make sure you have LOTS of clearance between the radiator cap and the bonnet, a lesson I learnt the hard way ;(

IE11 is due to go out of support at the end of November and most of the industry has already dropped support requirements for IE11 to just "must work" (i.e. be function but not strictly follow design), so I wouldn't worry about it. Legacy Edge isn't far behind it (EOS 9 March 2021) but usually renders in line with Quantum- and WebKit-based browsers, so less of a headache.

...and the 'needs spacer' type will fit and work without the spacer. For a few hundred miles. Before the pump arm fractures, at night, on the A41, and falls in to the sump. 😢

Or as most PWMs seem to work off a potentiometer to control actual fan speed you should be able to replace that with wiring to the original 2 speed switch, with maybe some experimenting on inline resistors to get appropreate high/low speeds... Upgrading the blower motor is on my Spitfire "post Duxford" fiddle list.