-
Posts
24,930 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
580
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Pete Lewis
-
-
from experience of warranty more belts fail after the OE is replaced due to not conforming to the tension tooling etc
then blame the belt for failing , its rarely the belt that gives out they are made from pretty bullet proof Kevlar
we had many dealers claim a belt failure a few hundred miles after fitting , when asked where is you tension tool ..."we dont have one "
bye bye warranty !!
Pete
-
its a morse chain they last for ever but as the pivots and links wear the chain effectively grows in length and the cam timing starts to get a little later than when new none are jaw dopping events if its noisy have it changed if its quiet sleep easy
there will be a good few thoughts on this but im sure there will be other far more needed repairs to do before you jump into
the bigger jobs sorry its not something you can pre judge , use the ears is a good start
but it wont fail and cause any catastrophe.
you really need to get to know the car before you drum up worries and empty the wallet
pete
-
good when the solution is easy and CHEAP Ha !
Pete
-
1
-
-
there should be a alloy sealing washer between the top bushing and the carb body
MkII 2 Litre Stromberg Carburettors : Canley Classics
my guess is its missing
Pete
-
i will stick with my Commer upbringing TS4 was the 16 prototype 4 cyl versions of the Rootes TS3 two stroke diesel we built
which Chrysler scrapped there are 4 still in existence .
makes a wonderful racket
pete
-
you really cant do a mix and match tin cover needs a thick cork/rubber type gasket the alloy needs the flat neoprene one
the sealing faces are so different you need to get it right
even the tin cover has very poor gasket location and often needs sealer to hold it in place while you fit it
misplaced gaskets are a common source of oil leaks along with over tightened covers getting quite distorted
Pete
-
next time remove the dizzy clamp from the pedestal and remove it on bench
the clamp can get distorted over the years and they get a gorilla grip on the base
Pete
-
1
-
-
well on that you can see the bonnet catches an a low level door release
far away from alpine hand me downs only the tail fins look series 1+ alpine evolved
pete
-
smokey after an oil refill is the excess oil going down the valve guides there not as good as when 50 yrs ago
if the rumbling keeps rambling then you may have to have a look at the crank brg shells
have you checked no exhaust is making contact anywhere and being overdrive
then worth a look at the tail mount , if that gives up it has metal to metal contact on the chassis plate
also check engine mounts see if the stg rack is getting too close to the sump
just points where contact will give you expensive noises into the body
hope that helps
Pete
-
1
-
-
simple test connect the sender wire to earth should give a full (hot) gauge reading (ign on)
if it doesnt then fault is gauge related or voltage stabiliser has a problem (or the sender wire has a problem)
Pete
-
1
-
-
with the revised cam setting i would be inclined to time by ear
advance the dizzy to get the best fastest idle and back it off a bit
if you have a vac gauge then idle of 18-21inhg
then dont check the pointers and sleep easy
3k for an antistall start is extreme thats just wrong !!
you may find at 500idle the idle mixture is just set too lean
Pete
-
500 is too slow target is generally 800ish
500 is ok for strobe ign timing check so no advance is produced by the centrifugal weights in the dizzy but a bit on the slow side for a normal idle
Pete
-
along with a good few gears baulkrings bushes etc all going spare
you dont need anu special tools just drift mallet, circlip piers ,chisel 1/2af socket etc. a good vice
if you read about refitting a D type it will tell you to poke around down in the dark to align the hub splines
you just need two good screwdriver/pry bars you lever the two release plates and this frees the clutch ring and it all aligns and drops on keep fingers out the way .
many forget fit the pump cam woodruff keyway , thats embarising
some decent string/rope to lift the cluster back in place .
dont forget to fill/ level with EP90 GL4 oil
Pete
-
2
-
-
i have a bag full of gearbox thrust washers a real sort and sift but there must be some that someone needs
if you need any i need diameters and thickness
Pete
-
34 minutes ago, ahebron said:
I quite like the Urban dictionary meaning for it
and when it comes to gearboxes its due to too much gnashing of teeth Ha
when you get a baulk ring let go halfway through a change the crashing noise you experience is the small dog teeth
trying to chimble away the chamfered tooth form as they clatter over the gear dogs and the sliding sleeve
both need to be /\ not () ie a well defined chamfer around 55deg
Pete
-
2 hours ago, David W said:
Thanks for putting my mind at rest.
Nah theres going to be some other event that causes sleep loss ha!
Pete
-
that circlip on the mainshaft 3rd gear buy more than one you cannot reuse if they get spread and removal tends to destroy/distort them
never ever reuse the little sods
to understand synchro and how it works heres a good explanation the dog teeth and sleeve chamfered theeth are vitally important they are clean and sharp chamfers
too much tooth clashing chimbles the tooth form and wrecks synchromesh "rock over"
-
1
-
-
and you still get the important headrests
Pete
-
its the very different front end thats the question
the tail fins mmake it fairly clear its alpine based
but that front ??? who made that ???
Pete
-
most strip due too long set screws bottoming out .and gorilla hands at work
can be repaired by upping to a 8/10mm metric or even a 3/8unf
if bent for whatever reason then thats more of a challenge
do note there are a selection of screw lengths on sumps and timing covers that need to be observed
or stripped/ bottomed out will prevail
pete
-
you can often find them on generators and also the HT coil
you can quite safely disconnect and remove them
agree now redundant interreference suppression on old AM radio's
pete
-
dont have the heritage cert. now (went when i sold her }
but im sure it was on the orig build spec of 1964 and was a Britax as far as i remember from the makers plate in the header
i would think it would be quite normal for triumph to use multiple suppliers of the day .
Pete
-
the spars or not depends if its webasto or britax or some one else
mine was a 1964 britax similar slides but hidden spars /listing rails
Pete
-
1
-
-
there are a few other places to check flow to the heater
the water pump is most unlikley to be anything to do with your cold heater
check the metal tube under the manifold and the adaptor thats fitted into the back of the pump hsg. these are often blocked
have you released the top heater hose clip and pulled the hose off while idling to release any trapped air (dont burn the pinkies)
is the thermostat actually working 82c is pretty hot , you can only hold a hose for a few seconds till the hot bites you.
take the rad cap off when cold and with engine running you should not see any flow in the rad header
when the stat opens you will see flow and stop as the stat modulates the flow .
if the hose flush through th matrix and the valve is new/opening then its the source of the flow thats in trouble
the air flap box is easy to remove 2 bolts and a cable , renew the flap felt/sponges to aid distribution
Pete
Mystery Coupe (Kit car maybe?)
in Spotted
Posted
Geoff Carverhill who has written the Commer story and Rootes story is friendly with Mr Harrington
and is going to ask if they have any clues
and The Rootes Story 2 the Chrysler years is launched 18th November if they dont know there is no hope
this launch is by invite only and Im on the list Ha !
Pete