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Pete Lewis

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis

  1. Geoff Carverhill who has written  the Commer story and Rootes story  is friendly with Mr Harrington  

    and is going to ask if they have any clues 

    and The Rootes Story 2   the Chrysler years  is launched 18th November   if they dont know there is no hope 

    this launch is by invite only and Im on the list  Ha !

    Pete

    image001.thumb.jpg.0d53222466c5b4c3d4bfee29209a4a25.jpg

  2. from experience of warranty  more belts fail after the OE is replaced due to not conforming to the tension tooling etc 

    then blame the belt for failing , its rarely the belt that gives out they are made from pretty bullet proof Kevlar 

    we had many dealers claim a belt failure a few hundred miles after fitting , when asked where is you tension tool ..."we dont have one " 

    bye bye warranty !! 

    Pete

  3. its a morse chain  they last for ever but as the pivots and links wear the chain effectively grows in length and the cam timing starts to get a little later than when new   none are jaw dopping events if its noisy have it changed if its quiet sleep easy

    there will be a good few thoughts on this but im sure there will be other far more needed repairs to do before you jump into

    the bigger jobs   sorry its not something you can pre judge  , use the ears  is a good start

    but it wont fail and cause any  catastrophe.

    you really need to get to know the car before you drum up worries and empty the wallet 

    pete

  4. you really cant do a mix and match  tin cover needs a thick cork/rubber  type gasket the alloy needs the flat neoprene one 

    the sealing faces are so different you need to get it right

    even the tin cover has very poor gasket location and often needs sealer to hold it in place while you fit it

    misplaced gaskets are a common source of oil leaks along with over tightened covers getting quite distorted 

    Pete

  5. smokey after an oil refill is the excess oil going down the valve guides there not as good as when 50 yrs ago

    if the rumbling keeps rambling then you may have to have a look at the crank brg shells 

    have you checked no exhaust is making contact anywhere and being overdrive 

    then worth a look at the tail mount , if that gives up it has metal to metal contact on the chassis plate

    also check engine mounts  see if the stg rack is getting too close to the sump

    just points where contact will give you expensive noises into the body 

    hope that helps 

    Pete

     

    • Like 1
  6. along with a good few gears  baulkrings bushes   etc all going spare 

    you dont need anu special tools  just  drift mallet, circlip piers ,chisel  1/2af socket etc. a good vice

    if you read about refitting a D type it will tell you to poke around down in the dark to align the hub splines

    you just need two good screwdriver/pry bars  you lever the two release plates and this  frees the clutch ring and it all aligns and drops on keep fingers out the way .

    many forget   fit the pump cam woodruff  keyway , thats embarising 

    some decent string/rope to lift the cluster back in place .

    dont forget to fill/ level with EP90 GL4 oil

    Pete

     

    • Like 2
  7. 34 minutes ago, ahebron said:

    I quite like the Urban dictionary meaning for it

    and when it comes to gearboxes  its due to too much gnashing of teeth  Ha 

    when you get a baulk ring let go halfway through a change the crashing noise you experience is the small dog teeth 

    trying to chimble away the chamfered tooth form as they clatter over the gear dogs and the sliding sleeve

    both need to be /\  not () ie a well defined chamfer around 55deg 

    Pete 

  8. that circlip on the mainshaft 3rd gear   buy more than one   you cannot reuse if they get spread and removal tends to destroy/distort them 

    never ever reuse the little sods  

    to understand synchro and how it works heres a good explanation the dog teeth and sleeve chamfered theeth are vitally important they are clean and sharp chamfers 

    too much tooth clashing chimbles the tooth form and wrecks synchromesh  "rock over"   

    syncho and howi1.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  9. most strip due too long set screws bottoming out .and gorilla hands at work 

    can be repaired by upping to a  8/10mm  metric or even a 3/8unf  

    if bent for whatever reason then thats more of a challenge 

    do note there are a selection of screw lengths on sumps and timing covers that need to be observed

    or stripped/ bottomed out will prevail 

    pete

  10. there are a few other places to check flow  to the heater

    the water pump is most unlikley to be anything to do with your cold heater 

    check the metal tube under the manifold and the adaptor thats fitted into the back of the pump hsg.  these are often blocked 

    have you released the top heater hose clip and pulled the hose off while idling to release any trapped air (dont burn the pinkies) 

    is the thermostat actually working  82c is pretty hot , you can only hold a hose for a few seconds  till the hot  bites you.

    take the rad cap off when cold and with engine running you should not see any flow in the rad header

    when the stat opens you will see flow and stop as the stat modulates the flow .

    if the hose flush through th matrix and the valve is new/opening   then its the  source of the flow thats in trouble

    the air flap box is easy to remove 2 bolts and a cable , renew the flap felt/sponges  to aid distribution 

    Pete

     

     

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