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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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so why if you use a non OD slave dont you just swap the mainshafts over ??? and you still have the benefit of overdrive
with the changes in tooth count and tooth angles it can become a minefield of lots of spares............ fits nothing
Pete
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yes its going to rain
i agree where the dizzy body is doesnt matter other than the vac unit can get in the way of any adjustment
so long as no1 lead is where the rotor points at no1 tdc compression , it works with 153624 anticlock firing order ht leads from that no1 point
it is quite easy to fit the drive offset half a turn out when all the fittings, clamp, dog and slot are a bit old
it wont help but if its wrong you apply loads to the dizzy shaft you dont need
Pete
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no poke the test feeler in while its running if it goes quiet then adjust down a bit more , one job at a time not all 3
its possible to reface the rockers with a grinder (not tried a file ) they are hardened pads .
f you ever find some wire feelers they dont bridge the wear pad but they are rarely available
things like ClickAdjust solve this but they are not that easy as they make out , as you have to determine how many clicks you need .... manic
Pete
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all you need is a soft drift and hammer but you have it in bits already
tip when refitting the D type
use two big screwdrivers or similar and when lowering the unit lever open the steel strap bars to free the clutch this allows everything to align and the unit will drop on easy
keep fingers out the way !!!!!
the manual will tell you to use a long screwdriver and poke around in the dark to get the splines lined up ...all pretty hopeless the gag to lever open is twit proof or you will be
poking around for hours
pete
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poly bush kits some supply a paste lubricant some do not
i dont know what its called
Pete
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ouch !!!!
Pete
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1 hour ago, nicrguy1966 said:
push a thinner gauge old feeler in the gap and the rogue one
Think Dave picked this up when i did Twiddle days at club HQ
good fun but cant do it now cant hold spanners zimmer frame and iron lung and ball cock all at the same time Ha !
maybe we organise one for the spring
Pete
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think you have most culprits covered
maybe a broken leaf and seized trunnion to add
if its knocking check the body bolts on the diff x member
pete
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3 hours ago, Iain T said:
is there a factory amount of turns from flush for a basic setting?
no not as far as i know the top adjust with its small washer set flush is the base setting and ive always found that works
on bottom adjusters its around 3 turns down from flush but peoples idea of flush and 3 what !!! can be varied
pete
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and dont forget the interior lamp harness needs removing
when you see the small fixings of the B post extension ( screw and that rivet ) makes you wonder how it all survives with door slamming
Pete
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so you know your CDSE carbs are adjusted by sticking a long allen key down the dashpot tube there are special silly priced tools to do this
but if you remove the air piston you can use a key down the dashpot tube the art is a std setting that the small delrin washer on the head of the needle should
be level with the base of the air piston thats the starting point . the key turns a fixed threaded ( Nut) and rotation will raise or lower the needle
if you have temperature compensators ( small plastic covered unit ) on the side this needs to be twiddled remove its cover and turn the small nut to
close the plunger SHUT you dont need this emission aggravator
ie it bleeds air bypassing the throttle so if its open when it should be closed you cannot set the idle mixture ..ever.
just something else to dream about Ha !!
Pete
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read the test data in the WSM carefully most Dizzy testing figures is done DECELERATING so you measure the degrees reducing revs not as you expect raising the revs
this catches a lot out
just be sure of the test data and HOW not all are like this but you do need to know Ha!!! just another learning curve to combat the peaceful snoozing
Pete
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at the end of the day the cam timing does need to be about right what ever else is wrong
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24 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:
set up facial recognition!
you think we want a face shot Nah !!!!!
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and well done for having a go
you have proved to yourself its not a dark art once you have a few clues
a good workshop manual for bedtime reading is a mind of information Zzzzzzz!!!!
pete
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sorry not come across that problem
Pete
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as yours is still assembled you need to use the equal tappet gap to get the cam lobes at their TDC
so feelers is all you need with a piston stop to set the piston at TDC you must not rely on using the timing cover marks
and hoping the crank doesnt turn while you are fiddling about .
you can make a piston stop by wrecking an old spark plug by remove the electrode and adding a bolt
Pete
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thats nowt to do with the spin on filter its either spurious or packing for some obscure reason
i would put it in the might be useful one day but not for oil changes
Pete
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you need a protractor ?dial (like on the crank ) on the cam set the DTI on inlet lobe mark the degrees
for say 0.025 on the up and down from highest mark the centre of the two .
do same on exhaust lobe mark the centre of the two readings
if on compression stroke turn cam exactly 180 degrees (half a turn) ft the chain with the best aligning holes
as compression stroke uses the back of the lobe you need to turn the crank one turn so the two lobes are uppermost
just check both lobes give the same lift on a DTI (or feelers under the rocker ) at TDC
well something like that easy to do not easy to write it Ha
bedforshire waffle
Pete
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eed to get the cam lobes in balance and exactly mid point highest point
best use a dial indicator to get the centre of the cam ramp
pete
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and the more you play with the fuel hose the more rubber slivers breed .
I agree with Johny dead end pressures are not controllable get the pump under control by spacing from the block and simplify the filtering
they lasted 50 years before paranoia filtering got into the aftermarket
unfortunate but most problems of debris are the now aged fuel tanks and fake rubber hose let alone whats been pumped in via the filler over the years
Pete
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who welded the drop links ????? nuts
these (should) do need to swivel so when adjusting the turnbuckle on the tie rods the bonnet moves fore /aft to set the gap to the screen panel ......... thats not possible if the links are welded
you can see the links on here item 36
1600 Bonnet Assembly : Canley Classics
pete
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agree the rad brackets are part of the chassis not adjustable ...very Fixed
pete
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yes wheatabix not blow lamp
we have enough problems with the crank pulley damper ring bonding breaking loose without cooking it
then you are in the doo doos as they are not overly available these days
locking the ring gear is a good way then all energy is on the bolt not winding the transmission up
pete
Vitesse Mk2 rear suspension creak
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted · Edited by Pete Lewis
yes you will need to make /borrow a lifter for rotoflex as the coupling takes a lot of effort to raise the upright to meet the spring
a stout bar with an exhaust /clamp to hold the spring will work DIY fashion it needs to be solid but not rocket science
all others with a swing axle just needs a lift with a jack much easier
pete