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Pete Lewis

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis

  1. yes you  will need to make /borrow  a lifter for rotoflex  as the coupling takes a lot of effort to raise the upright to meet the spring  

    a stout bar with an exhaust /clamp to hold the spring will work  DIY fashion it needs to be solid but not rocket science 

    all others with a swing axle just needs a lift with a jack much easier  

    pete

  2. yes its going to rain 

    i agree where the dizzy body is doesnt matter other than the vac unit can get in the way of any adjustment 

    so long as no1 lead is where  the rotor points at no1 tdc compression    ,  it works with 153624 anticlock firing order ht leads from that no1 point 

    it is quite easy to fit the drive offset half a turn out when all the fittings, clamp,  dog and slot are a bit old 

    it wont help but if its wrong you apply loads to the dizzy shaft you dont need 

    Pete

  3. no  poke the test feeler in while its running   if it goes quiet  then adjust down a bit more  , one job at a time not all 3    

    its possible to reface the rockers with a grinder (not tried a file  )  they are hardened pads .

    f you ever find some wire feelers they dont bridge the wear pad  but they are rarely available

    things like ClickAdjust solve this but they are not that easy as they make out , as you have to determine how many clicks you need ....  manic 

    Pete

  4. all you need is a soft drift and hammer but you have it in bits already

    tip when refitting the D type 

    use two big screwdrivers or similar and when lowering the unit lever open the steel strap bars to free the clutch  this allows everything to align and the unit will drop  on easy

    keep fingers out the way  !!!!!

    the manual will tell you to use a long screwdriver and poke around in the dark to get the splines lined up ...all pretty hopeless   the gag to lever  open is twit proof or you will be 

    poking around for hours 

    pete

  5. so you know your CDSE carbs are adjusted by sticking a long allen key down the dashpot tube  there are special silly priced tools to do this

    but if you remove the air piston you can use a key down the dashpot tube  the art is a std setting that the small delrin washer on the head of the needle should

    be level with the base of the air piston  thats the starting point .    the key turns a fixed threaded ( Nut) and rotation will raise or lower the needle 

    if you have temperature compensators ( small plastic covered unit ) on the side this needs to be twiddled remove its cover and turn the small nut to 

    close the plunger  SHUT you dont need this emission aggravator  

    ie it bleeds air bypassing the throttle so if its open when it should be closed you cannot set the idle mixture ..ever.

    just something else to dream about Ha !!

    Pete

  6. as yours is still assembled you need to use the equal tappet gap to get the cam lobes at their   TDC

    so feelers is all you need with a piston stop to set the piston at TDC  you must not rely on using the timing cover marks 

    and hoping the crank doesnt turn while you are fiddling about .

    you can make a piston stop by wrecking an old spark plug by remove the electrode and adding a bolt 

    Pete

     

    • Like 1
  7. you need a protractor ?dial  (like on the crank )  on the cam   set the DTI on inlet lobe mark the degrees 

    for say 0.025 on the up and down from highest   mark the centre of the two .

    do same on exhaust lobe   mark the centre of the two readings 

    if on compression stroke  turn cam exactly 180 degrees (half a turn)  ft the chain with the best aligning holes 

    as compression stroke uses the back of the lobe  you need to turn the crank one turn so the two lobes are uppermost 

    just check both lobes give the same lift on a DTI (or feelers under the rocker )  at TDC

    well something like that      easy to do not easy to write it  Ha 

    bedforshire waffle 

    Pete

     

    • Thanks 1
  8. and the more you play with the fuel hose the more rubber slivers breed .

    I agree with Johny   dead end pressures are not controllable get the pump under control by spacing from the block and simplify the filtering 

    they lasted 50 years before paranoia filtering got into the aftermarket 

    unfortunate but  most problems of debris are the now  aged fuel tanks and fake rubber hose let alone whats been pumped in via the filler over the years 

    Pete

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