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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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thats nowt to do with the spin on filter its either spurious or packing for some obscure reason
i would put it in the might be useful one day but not for oil changes
Pete
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you need a protractor ?dial (like on the crank ) on the cam set the DTI on inlet lobe mark the degrees
for say 0.025 on the up and down from highest mark the centre of the two .
do same on exhaust lobe mark the centre of the two readings
if on compression stroke turn cam exactly 180 degrees (half a turn) ft the chain with the best aligning holes
as compression stroke uses the back of the lobe you need to turn the crank one turn so the two lobes are uppermost
just check both lobes give the same lift on a DTI (or feelers under the rocker ) at TDC
well something like that easy to do not easy to write it Ha
bedforshire waffle
Pete
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eed to get the cam lobes in balance and exactly mid point highest point
best use a dial indicator to get the centre of the cam ramp
pete
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and the more you play with the fuel hose the more rubber slivers breed .
I agree with Johny dead end pressures are not controllable get the pump under control by spacing from the block and simplify the filtering
they lasted 50 years before paranoia filtering got into the aftermarket
unfortunate but most problems of debris are the now aged fuel tanks and fake rubber hose let alone whats been pumped in via the filler over the years
Pete
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who welded the drop links ????? nuts
these (should) do need to swivel so when adjusting the turnbuckle on the tie rods the bonnet moves fore /aft to set the gap to the screen panel ......... thats not possible if the links are welded
you can see the links on here item 36
1600 Bonnet Assembly : Canley Classics
pete
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agree the rad brackets are part of the chassis not adjustable ...very Fixed
pete
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yes wheatabix not blow lamp
we have enough problems with the crank pulley damper ring bonding breaking loose without cooking it
then you are in the doo doos as they are not overly available these days
locking the ring gear is a good way then all energy is on the bolt not winding the transmission up
pete
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ok all together if we all heave it should move it
by mystic powers -
2 hours ago, johny said:
transmission just winds up....
thats exactly why care in overtorque doesnt destroy the clutch damper springs the engine max torque is around /upto 115 lbft easy to bust that with a scaffold pole or similar overloading
pete
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the cone heights look ok there is an adjustable drop link hides under the overrider
that would raise the os and even up the taper better and you gain a few mm across the front of the bonnet
Pete
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the O/S door gap looks like that side need to be raised to get the taper door gap to a parallel gap
are there pads on the rad mount brkts you could remove ??
pete
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if you think about where the thread section is then any squirt on stuff wont get anywhere near it
it needs a sharp shock ,so a decent ring spanner and a clout with a club hammer
but a 1/2 drive impact battery gun is the best solution so put one on your wish list along with a set of impact sockets
preferably in imperial sizes
Pete
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my first Herald a 59 948 we had in 67 had no floor and the two front body mounts were just holes in the floor
so at 8 years old it was a complete rust bucket in 1967
pete
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agree a smear of sealer not grease
ive always made them out of a slice of heater hose , it works ok for years
Pete
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if only Ha !!
pete
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,frequent gasket failures ....do make sure you have the fixed strap down pipe to gearbox as this steadies the pipe
Pete
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one very normal place is the short hose off the top of the tank hidden in the boot on all H &V this is often the cause of loose /degraded hose that sucks air and stops the pump suction and could well be the common with both pump failures
Pete
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there are changes to needle valves on early and late B30pse1 carbs probably where the changes in size occurs
its not overly important
canley show them all throughout the 1200 range of carb changes
Solex Carburettor (B30Z1C5) : Canley Classics
cant get the Burlen site to work since its all changed (might be me )
they do wear and can jam up with little to see why
Pete
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remember any fuel hose fitting has the possibility of breeding the dreaded rubber slivers get sheared off the rubber hose when inserting the metal pipework these float about and jam/block the back of the float needle valve
its very common problem , less so with gates barricade hose which seems a much tougher compound
Pete
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yes swap it around the only restriction is if the filler may be too close to the bonnet
pete
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dont mind being uncle pete but draw the line at guru as you need funny clothing
Pete
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22 minutes ago, micmak said:
answered with politeness and civility
wow must try harder ,,,,,,cant have that ..............where is thread drift when you need it
luckily most of the regulars here stick to basics that work we are not into the FB myths and cobblers regime
and most know i have an avid hate of Must Haves Ha !!!
keep posting
Pete
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i would start by reading up about setting the shift cable on Rovers it could be well out of adjustment .
kick down .....wont have any real effect on the basic selector settings
normally there is a small ferule crimped on the carb end of the kick down cable and at idle this should just touch
against the cables abutment
oil level yes basic needs to be ok ( is there a cold fill and hot fill level on the dipstick ) ????
Pete
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GT6 Mk3 only runs well with VERY advanced timing. Any ideas why?
in Electrical System
Posted
as yours is still assembled you need to use the equal tappet gap to get the cam lobes at their TDC
so feelers is all you need with a piston stop to set the piston at TDC you must not rely on using the timing cover marks
and hoping the crank doesnt turn while you are fiddling about .
you can make a piston stop by wrecking an old spark plug by remove the electrode and adding a bolt
Pete