Pete Lewis
-
Posts
24,938 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
580
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Pete Lewis
-
-
-
as the seat foam basket sits lower into the floor well on most spits a alternative set may sit too high
worth a good look at before you swap
pete
-
its down to both factors
Pete
-
Just disconnect the earth lead from the NDR that renders it OFF
you can delete the relay join all like colours together to totally eliminate it
the rear lamp claw holders are a nightmare of mix and not matched you will likely have a mixed bag of these some earht via the claw fitting of the bulb holder some will have a dedicated earth wire fitted to the claw holder this along with the single filament and double filament all get mixed up as do the bulbs that get fitted
same on Spitfire with claw fitting lamps needs a careful look to check all the holders are being earthed via wire /claw/the lamp housing/the body
then check you have twin filament bulbs with offset pins in the stop tail and single filament in flasher and reverse
i wish i had a £ for all the ones ive faced that are a complete mess
the claw fittings are not inhibited they all fit any hole you fit them too so the whole thing becomes a easy nightmare
of dull weak hopelessness
Pete
-
1
-
-
stick to the Scooter theres only then simpulze Ha !!
i cant remember being 38
Pete
On 01/10/2023 at 17:27, Paula said:I'd take 38 for sure!
-
1
-
-
Peter there are a lot of Tee shirts for that one Ha !
-
dash pot check is easy its fundamental to flat spots
timing is obviously important if you have no tools /bulbs /strobes etc then use the ears
undo the dizzy clamp and with engine idling turn the dizzy , advancing will speed up the idle
retarding will slow the idle you aim at turn to get the best fastest idle then back it off a bit ,so not quite best
take for a drive if it Pinks( do use 97ron fuel) back it till it drives without sounding like a can of marbles when under load .
again one spanner and have your ears on ...simpluzle
vac units can fail but they are to aid economy not performance so when cruising you advance to an optimum to use less fuel the vac unit has no effect at idle .
Pete
-
if you are only doing normal casual driving its probably (without checking) more economical to
fit std springs and std shockers ,as adjustable are a pretty steep wallet emptier
full kit from JP £79 +vat etc.
what you need to find is this just the springs are tooooo long or the pans are in the wrong place ...or both
-
how long has this been a problem ??
might also be worth checking someone has not fitted a twin filament bulb (stop/tail) in any of the flasher holders.
but it does /seems more a unit failure than anything obscure
Pete
-
there probably are you tube clues but have to say all cars are differing and there is no one fix suits all
many of us have shoved moved tied to the lamp post methods of tub movements its all a bit individual
there are bolts along the sill side rail two pairs in the boot outrigger and a pair on the boot tunnel over the diff
then seat belt bolts go through to the chassis and a run of fixings for the tub joint under the seats
one trick if all is free is a good tug on the handbrake will pull the tub rearwards if single handed
so the HB will need readjusting as you move the HB lever rearwards you gain some slack
many forget the seat belt bolts and then things dont move
its all good fun in getting to know your car dont do too many changes at one go , its good to stand back have a cuppa
then revist
after about ten years the worries die out and the smile gets longer ha !
Pete
-
the 1200 rad cap is GRC112 at 7lbs 13 is far too high and will expand hoses excessively .
and does the seal actually load against the rad filler neck there are deep and shallow caps a short one in a deep filler wont seal .
thats right never brim the rad thats always going to spill expanded coolant a 1" gap is about the normal .
Radiator, Exhaust System and Petrol System : Canley Classics
try releasing the highest heater hose and release a bit of coolant to expel any trapped air
does the heater work well it may be blocked and giving you a continual air lock , the air expands when heated and this displaces the coolant
check some of these out and let us know what you find
Pete
-
you really do not need any special tools hoist cranes just spanners and a bit of elbow grease
once you slacken ALL the rear tub mounts and the joint under the seats the tub will shuffle easy
to get the gap just use some wooden /hardboard as a packer to keep the desired B post gap
the body manual used tapered wedges of wood thats triumph for you
if you cant make an improvement then nip it up and you are back where you started
do this in a garage or outside even down the pub for easy assistance its not something to waste you wallet on
supposed specialists will milk you and wont do any more than you can achieve yourself
go on have a twiddle
if you are unsure where all the mount bolts are ask us here
as you are not raise/loser the rear tub no packings are needed the front to tilt the bulkhead can use a large washer
cut a slot to make it a C and you can slip them in with out removing any bolts
yes some bolts may be old and shear then there are replacement parts kits available from many suppliers
we are waiting to see you succeed ha !
Pete
-
a couple of spanners is all you need you cant wreck anything
the body mounts should sit on a rubber pad this can stick and make simple shifts a bit sticky
to maintain the positions we made a simple bit of timber with a slot each end to jam in the door seal flange
so when tightening down it doesnt shift
the front bulkhead forward mount to the outrigger is supposed to be sized hole and wont move much
so its tiltable with packers but no fwd rearward adjustment the rear tub will move all over the place there is a good
deal of big hole small bolt adjustment
its quite DIY no special tools at all
Pete
-
we have a local vitesse thats now one piece the sills and door appeture is all welded up as a solid non adjustable nightmare
looks very tidy but its now firmly one piece mono
Pete
-
17 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
having to remove the wheels to bleed the rear brakes!
one bodge is use socket and long extension just un nip the nipple and let the fluid pee on the floor
when bleeding out , wash all with water when done ,
Pete
-
one other thing to add to the fiddle list is convertibles do suffer from hood tension tends to pull the screen surround rearwards this can be solved ?? by adding packers under the rear pairs of baulkhead body mounts to tilt the screen forwards alittle this can help with the door window frame fouling and yes the glass frame does have some adjustment but its controlled by the glass fit or can make the drop glass far to stiff to wind down
the whole body is a right meccano set of move this bit upset that bit and it can be a can of worms as you work through the variety of operations that move everything and one shift can make others better or worse there are many headaches
and smiles to be had its all doable DIY but may be frustrating at times dont give up
Pete
-
its all coming along nicely
you can nearly hear it running
Pete
-
the taper gap bonnet to door is due to front pivot point of the bonnet is set too high its sits on links with slotted holes to raise lower the front height its hidden under the bumper overrider
dropping the height will reduce the tapered gap , the whole bonnet assy will move forwards if you extend the large tie rods
by adjusting the turnbuckle (which has lh rh threads )
this swings the height drop links which apart from height adjustment allows fore aft movement
to adjust the fit height at the screen panel you adjust the rubber cones
the latches if needed you can adjust the hook as thats on slotted holes also
pete
-
what you can do with a turkey baster for a start
answers on a postcard
Pete
-
you will realise triumph never write down the one little bit you need to know
Pete
-
gap door to B post needs to be 4mm its a bit too close
the bonnet needs the straps under the overrider dropping to equalise the taper you have
these adjustable straps are often fitted upside down there is conflicting pictures depends where you look
to me the bonnet pivot is on the single hole and the height is the slotted holes to the chassis brkt.
pete
-
dont you just love the easy fixes
pleased he is back up to speed
Pete
-
1
-
-
opening the throttle on choke is a waste of time its some old gits idea but it wont work .
open them when its fired only .
you can suck dashpot oil out with a straw or turkey baster (always useful)
dashpots wont help starting problems
a cold engine must have full choke to fire it up is the control fully opening the choke ??
Pete
-
thats bad, many need a firm slam but thats excessive
what is the panel gap door to B post you can undo all the rear tub mounts and move the tub rearwads
you may have a problem with the cam lock of the lock mechanism, do make sure there is a 3mm gap between the
tappet screw of the push button and the latch release lever of the lock, there must be a gap or the lock will
release/open and not grab the striker
a bit of oil on all the lock parts always helps
if you roll the lock cam over does it click into its closed position and stay there ??
Pete
Gearbox oil vitesse
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
so whats the noise/when/how ?? in all gears ?? , when in neutral ,??
selection like stiring a pudding , notchy, stiff, synchro failing , clashing/crashing
a few more clues we can maybe help more
Pete