Pete Lewis

my recently acquired 74 Mk2 T2000 has blasted SU on it and whilst I have an inherant hate for the thing they perform resonably what is not clear is while they look the same but if you retain the std air box the filters are very different in porting,and hole centres and they are pretty much unobtainable you cant fit a stromberg air box to su without a lot of modifications so you are now down the route of an alternative at high cost and much needle twidling you could fit spitfire ones but far too small area to last long. Pete ....Strombergs love em

just to add did you check the coil was being fed when cranking and when just 'on' was there any hint it wanted to fire but couldnt ? oil in dashpots is sae 20 engine oil but 20/50 engine oil is what you get these days no thin cats pee, its a damper and thin oil wont give you the richness needed when accelerating. you still could have a choke problem are they what i call thames barrier with a rotated ramp to raise piston and block air flow or starting valve on the front carb. the fuel bleed ports can get corroded up with storage and you dont get the fuel ratio to start a cold engine wet plugs may just be excessive cranking and not firing. good luck with the send away , hope they finger the problem Pete

this doesnt make sense ,there is a large hole in the outer filter face which is open to the vent in the top chamber casting. if you have grooved the seal washer then it will surely draw un metered fuel from around the jet holder cant be right , Pete

welcome aboard , now the fun starts Pete

its quite costly to renew all the seat foam and diaphragms, webbing etc , but all quite achievable , use cable ties not hog rings when refitting note where all the tucks and clips are positioned before your strip it out. many use MGF MX5 Jaguar and others most will fit with some tinkering, MGF dont tilt but can be made to quite easily some use diy plates to mount runner to the floor some make the replacement seat fit the old triumph runners .. its an open book, needs some homework first. saloons are easier than convertibles as the hood partition intrudes into the backrest width space and can restrict how and what you fit as an alternative if i can find a way to load a photo I have some of mgf fitted to my vitesse cant be bothered to faf around with these upload so please click on my avatar profile and theres some MGF vitesse photo's in my gallery Pete

the old forum had a section of tools tips and odds and sods this contained al sorts of useful guff so lets populate a new one in here First tip to get a crystal clear windscreen add a squirt of dishwasher rinse aid to your screenwash reservoir . Pete

when in truck manufacturing some military specs used a silicon type use to avoid moisture content whilst in long periods of storeage we did water content tests on trucks in storage and it was common for the reservoir to be upto 40% moisture in 6 months just from the breathing in the cap due to temperature changes if brakes fade ( have no grip) its due due to overheated friction material, thin worn down , or lubricated . if the pedal goes spongy or lost completely then its down to water in the brake cylinders if the pedal id lower when running but pumps up when stationary its excess bearing end float. pete

most electronic units operate in a range from 6 to 18volts from experience thye dont like a ballasted feed as when the battery state is poor you can have this drop below the operational window and thay cause lots of misfiring , its always best to keep the ballast and 1.5 ohm coil but add a 12v ign feed to the unit or dump the ballast, and its 1.5ohm coil and you can remove the white /yellow starter solenoid feed then fit a new 3 ohm 12v coil by making a new feed from the whites on the ign switch or suitably bypassed ballast and all is then twit proof. im sure many rotor failures were due to by passing ballasted 1.5 ohm coils which will double the current used and also raise the HT to a voltage in excess of what these systems will cope with , Pete

Robin come to the pub 27th oct and talk to Me or give me a call Pete

some ramblings your club shop sell reliable's at fair prices, and offer a recondition service for points or electronics distributors all these units what ever make are purely a replacing mechanical switching with electronic switching its good for greater accuracy up the speed range and can complement worn dizzy cam spindle float , they are not anything more than that, nothing magical but less maintenance no burning contact faces, no gap setting. no mechanical inefficiencies. some use the cheap options from eb-y and have mixed results personally ive used aldon and lumention from the club shop and they have been robust and bullet proof for years. one thing was reported the low end spec units dont always have the trigger magnets spaced correctly and each cyl ends up with different timing cant confirm where this emanated from, pete

to me that style of shim is to reduce the friction and shuffle between pad and piston contact it would fit either way round, as it has no cut out to create a sort of 'lead in' edge to the piston if you ring the shop Garth may have the answers, if you look at the piston contact face this may have a r machined relief area to replicate a cut away shim if so the relieve should be facing the oncoming disc rotation. so there is a slight loss of pressure on the leading face of the pads , these pistons can rotate in use aand the cut out ends up anywhere and good old triumph workshop manual shows diddly squat on the parts in question Pete

Ill ask if Bern can throw any light on that, there are high st printers that can reproduce on sticker or plastic film, its never a cheap option what I have done as a cheapskate is to laminate ans cut out the outline attach to screens with double sided clear tape. not exactly naff but works well when you only need a few wrather than hundreds we had some film flags made a few years back and the cost for what they were was a bad move Pete

if you can add a picture of just what you have answers are a lot easier. where did you get them from do they show a photo or outline ??? Pete

if you use M1144 there a topic on here i loaded about specific bedding in proceedures , must be adhered to or they wont work well as expected Pete

come on your club shop sells wheel bearing of quality. if you cant find them just use the shop search box .. Pete

here's a fact sheet https://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Brake-Fluid-Explained.pdf its down to preference or risk with the lack of lubricity of dot5 you may find the mainstream manufacturers of our components wont accept any warranty with dot5 silicon useage. Pete

generally there is a segment cut out in the shim to give a the piston a leading edge and stop squeal there is the dia to suit the piston and the cut out should face the oncoming direction of rotation so as to give a little relief to the piston contact. if you have plastic pads then they fit anyway to suit the backing shape. onsteel shims add a smear of copa slip on the backing piston face to prevent sticking and helps squeal , pete

depends on the make some the trigger is in quite q different place to the original contacts so timing must be checked you dont need a strobe connect small pea bulb t between the coil negative and earth ignition switched on. HT king lead detached turn engine as unit triggers it will illuminate the bulb , at this exact poit look at the timing marks ( must be 1 or 4 approaching tdc compare pointer and marks on pulley for a staic of around 10 deg ( check your manual for the correct spec ) or look it up in the technical spec download at the bottom of the forum . Pete

with most pdwa you should in my experience bleed both circuits together ,that keeps the pressures equal and the valve wont shuttle if the spool valve pops over you can manually reposition it with the switch removed if youre servicing the brake system then consider new seals in here as well as the other main cylinders. just changing pads is as easy as it looks, clean all areas and a smear of copper slip on back of pads and a touch on the edges that slid in the carrier the squeal shims are fitted with arrow in direction of rotation, if no arrow then the relieved section should face direction of rotation make sure the hub end float is set to 0.002" - 0.008" which is a light nut nip and back off 1 to 2 flats . there are two split pin holes to allow fine adjustment Pete

the tolerance ring is a crinkled tin bush that supposed to hold the withdrawl lever pivot pin in place in the bell housing. these break up and allows the pin to float or even often drop out. you can see the pin in the hsg, if you look down the side fro the top the end of the pivot pin is just visible. see on canley item 27 http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/herald1360gearbox.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/herald1360.html&category=gearbox&xsl=diagram.xsl free play at the pedal pad about 1/4" to 1/2" play between push rod and Mcyl about 1/16th all it needs is a 'little' to ensure the cyl piston has returned to is 'fully off' you dont want any lost play in the pedal pivots. make sure the pdeal pivots are not partly siezed as this can stop the full return of thecyl. if that helps a bit ? Pete

one two sorry senior moments .. ive got two slippers , but only one hat Ha ! its only the lower holes that are tapped right through the case to the oily side , the uppers are blind holes pete

here's a place that specialises in these products , not used them but they have been around a long time http://www.littleportboathaven.co.uk/britax%20sunroof.htm Pete

Hi the three springs are an attempt to cure /damp backlash rattle on tick over, on later boxes these holes and springs were deleted. if you leave them out there wont be any catastrophe or any grate gain by fitting them either so not to worry , if you have some fit them if you end up stripping the box make sure you get the important and correct springs for the sliding sleeves as 3/th are different to 1//2nd if you need to the front cover is just a tap in fit in the clutch housing and easy to remove, ,a smear of sealant when refitting make sure the two lower hsg bolts are sealed and have a copper washer or they will leak Pete

the handbrakes are often marginal, see the post about lever extenders, in the main remove the clevis from the backplate lever, fully lock up the adjusters, refit the cables to just a neat fit ,with the wheels on the ground or supported,|(not hanging) then release the adjuster about 3 to 4 clicks make sure the relay lever has cables in the correct holes and the angle is as per the Manual grease the slides . and thats about it. Pete

the 0.70" was introduced i believe with the type 16 calipers , with drums 12s and 14s it was 0.625" fitting this a s an alternative would give a great reduction in pedal load but may give too long travel with the bigger 16 piston displacement agree with Clive the 3/4"is a common cheaper option mainly land rover based aftermarket supplied , never a small chassis spec. another simple way to improve braking is to fit a bigger pedal pad .. makes a cheap and surprising improvement Pete