Pete Lewis

these have been around on and off for some years, these are very expensive, you also have to take in consideration how much load you are now about doubling whats designed through the orig levers and shoe web. something downstream may decide to buckle . if set correctly the std set up can just produce the correct % all beit only just , I guess someone out there has used them with some hope Pete

just make sure the gasket does fit all round and is not bridging or enchroaching the float operation when assembled there are a whole load of evolutions to the carbs over the years and the float chamber gasket changed in many small but significant ways if you have the brass tag number that should point it t the right gasket, some repair kits supply all you need and there's up to 6 in the pack all look the same but on close up there are wildly different in the corners Pete

if you cant get it to hold still in top gear with brakes on then remove the starter and lock the ring gear with some stout bladed screwdriver or similar soundly in the teeth. 150 is not that high , do you have an impact gun air or battery ??? Pete

as the pivot is aprox half way from each end you dont need 4mm we used one or two simple washers to get the lever 'midships' in its operational angle of travel. if you added 4 mm the post would probably rock out of its bore, its only as deep as the hsg casting. no grease on the pins that attracts dust and grinds things away even more many use a grease on the 'tube ' but again this clogs up with dust . more modern ventures use a plated and dry assembly in here. WSM states use a vinc oxide grease sparingly to the pivots and sleeve. I guess any hi melt temperature grease would be OK used sparingly there's no easy compromise , the design is old hat, the anti spin pin is added to stop the carrier rotating and wearing grooves in the front cover tube but then wear is confined to two small contacts and these end up with a dimple if its left to spin the fork pins wear even more what we all need is someone to make a 3D printed concentric assy to fit the front of the gearbox....Hmmm !! just some ramblings Pete

all small chassis and others have a static throwout so its supposed to be in contact all the time the load appied is from the spring in the slave cylinder, its its noisy its down to lack of load and the noise is skidding , and a light touch to the pedal and it stops then its this making the noise. all down to brg drag and poor diaphragm finger finish. this then wears a groove in the brg. and pedal loads increase as the fingers have to climb out of the formed wear groove. adding some small packing under the pedestal to compensat for the thin bearing just moves the lever to a 50/50 position and not a 75/25 ratio for when the lever is well past its home position there is increases pedal loads . Pete

just to add the 2ltr be it mk1 or mk2 will have the diaphragm clutch so you need a longer throwout carrier than the coil clutch on the 1600 unless its been updated at some time . Pete

if you remover the float chamber base and float manually close the valve does this stem the fuel flow.??? it may be the valves are just and rather unusually stuffed. Pete

have you checked the fuel pump pressure is not something excessive, this is not a normal Stromberg problem so head scratching is in order. rubber slivers are real rouges in the fuel line . and I hate SU and luckily you cant do a straight swap. as all hole centres and even air box is very different. are they new float valves or old ones ?? Pete

all the internals are the same except the mainshaft , so mix and match is easy having rebuilt and been involved with manufacturing them Ive seen more gearboxes than i care to remember ( thats 3 spd to 18spd) I ran out of any acceptable core and with constant spigot failures ended up with good old Mike to make up a mainshaft and stem gear for the Vit6 with the 18mm spigot and this worked fine till I sold her in June . if the up load works here's a good ( may be upside down ) explanation of whats needed to make sycchro work Pete

if GRB209 is only 15mm thick you need to extend the sperical post a little to get the lever in its central see saw position or the leverage becomes 'late' and the pins which press the carrier become below the centre line of the tube and this will pitch th carrier and cause judder in the future . I have fitted washers under the sperical post to gain height which seems a compromise if needed if the tcarrier has worn where the pins load you can remove the anti spin pin and relocate it in an un worn sector. likewise the throwout pins can be replaced by welding in cut down clevis pins. to make them round again. just some thoughts Pete

one of the best pictorial articles is on http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm never mind its for TR the basics are the same if the float has two needle arms its easy to fit the float upside down and the levels are never correct. the flat base of the float is at an angle in the fuel. fuel the contoured side it in air. make sure no slivers of rubber are not flaotion in the supply network or jammed in the back of the float needle, often occurs when refitting hose to bundy. float height problems will overfill and surge out the vent in the outer face there are many gaskets for these , many small changes which leave unsealed joint faces on the float chamber, double check its not an exterior leak . if the jet seals are incorrect then it can leak out around the inner jet tube I would double check the O rings and seal washers are all the right way in. Pete

any Mk 1 will be straight swap , a mk2 is same but all manifolds need replacing, all ancilliaries like needles and carb specs together with dizzy curve/vac will need replacing to suit. 2.5 will strip the gearbox which is already stretched to its limit if the 1600 three rail has crash on first then up it to a 3 rail 4 synchro. with a HC prefix or get an upgrade from Mr Papworth you need to also check the diff output shafts are to the latest diameter, early ones could shear on 4.11 diffs 3.89 > would be better Pete

http://www.jdo1.com/ or http://www.speedycables.com/ the guts are same as a speedo but calibration could take a lot of trial and error to get the 3.55:1 ratio are you sure its the unit and not the dizzy drive or cable ?? club shop sell new , log in for correct price https://shop.tssc.org.uk/search?search_api_views_fulltext=tachometer Pete

if you put all the component parts of the two makes out on a clean sheet you can see one is engineered the other is a load of bits and peices, both do a good job the stromberg is generally more efficient,there are if ever needed more needles available in SU than Stromberg. and apart from the air cleaner porting and fixing holes together with the manifold all being different I agree with Clive my newly acquired T2000 has SU ( yes i hate the things) and getting air filters to suit the std. vertical air box is like rocking horse pooh and the stromberg easy available ones do not fit due to the ports and hole centres are very different Pete

Darren some idea on vibration the tail mount can find the centre plate has bottomed out in the lower bolt cup. also if a D type has beeen rebuilt there are timing/locatoin marks on the planets which must be aligned with marks on the anulus case this ensures all three have the same best running load conditions , in that if out of syn you only load one of the three planets and this sets up a vibration its all in the manual. but the marks are small and hard to find . are you sure the new prop is not bottomed out its telescope ?? Pete

not sure why this is , but only thing i have identified across the range is many replacement bearings are 15mm thick where the orig was 19mm thick this reduces the angle of the lever and upsets the ratio there was a load about this on the lost forum , the orig was an RHP number , still available from some suppliers of bearing just refitted a new shed and have no idea where to find the part to retrieve the correct part number hey ho whos out there ?? Pete

im sure the pin has a knurled end to grip the hole so it onlt want to go one way,, which ways that going to be Hmmm !!! new pin will show what i mean. can be done in situ if you have a good pin punch and access is straigth on otherwise best whip the hinge off , you can do that with the door closed , dont go mad retightening book gives 16/18 lbs ft max. stick to 12/16 on old cage nuts many have the 'Ive stripped' it Tee shirt. pete

the clutch is all a static design so there is no real or needed adjustment. you can if travel is dpleated alter the groove in the slave to move it fwd. but this shouldnt make any difference as it just repositions the slave piston in its bore. some get improvements doing this. lost travel is often the pedal clevis and pushrod holes are worn , easy to open up and fit a bigger clevis or weld upand re drill. then theres the old nutshell the Tolerance Ring on the throwout lever pivot, renowned for breaking up or dropping out. there must be some small free play on the pushrod with foot off. this allows the master cyl to refill. if there is too much play you can slot the bracket baulkhead holes and move the assy fwd, this closes the play and raises the pedal pad height. add stout washers to the fixing bolts to cover the slot. pete

you can just drift out the pins and refit new ones, if the hinge body has worn this may half improve the slop. new hinges are available around £20 each shop around if the hinge has worn you can drill out and fit oversized pins or even bolts with a shank. but sizing has to be to a good fit or you end up worse than you started take care the tapping plates in the A post and door are very thin , any over tightening and the cage plate will strip this is a triumph weak link design not intended for any ritual doing up or undoing , and its a pig to change . any problems its best to drill out to 8.3mm and tap out to 3/8unf or try 8mm which has a deeper thread hope thats not depressing or confusing just take some strong tea and sum up whats needed before you jump in Ha ! Pete

in line with all the comments its the best thing you can do getting 14.5 volts to the pointed end will revitalise any previous glow worms often running at less than 10volts with the old decay and agism of the system add getting a whiter light and the change becomes most illuminating... Pete

to add dropping in 3rd will probably do the same what you are doing is lessening the synchro load by moving up the ratio's this brings the disc speed closer to whats needed and allows lower ratio engagements, stick to thinking clutch , bleed, slave position, loss of throwout fulcrum pin bushes etc for starters. Pete

kit, yes, contains spherical, a nasty cup washer and some nylon bushes for the remote pivots. any 'baulking' is generally clutch related IE not really clearing, if the disc cant spin up/down quickly the synchro will baulk the change untill the speeds are the same, if it cant do that it will lock you out , ie doing its job. Pete

the seal Rare Bits 4 Classics http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/ well know supplier of original spec components . market does replecate the orininals the singl e flip/lipped seal takes the ballon out of the bubble seals most will purport to being correct, fit Bills lipseal and door shuts will be a nice tolerable clunk not the wham bang slam that many end up with. many of us have been down this learning curve over the years . another good place to have a browse at thousands of original seal extrusions and contours is http://www.coh-baines.co.uk/ Pete

also I believe with changes to calipers and model years the evolved route to the fronts changed Pete

glad youre nearly sorted, if you change the studs make sure if you have domed nuts that the stud length is not going to bottom out before the wheel is secure Pete