Pete Lewis

Bob if you get stuck give me a call as a thought its unlikely you have done damage to the bearing just the pressed steel cage can this be reformed if its a bit wonky , it only seperates the taper rollers , and keeps them equi spaced just a thought before you dive in head first, Pete

I added some ideas about alternative arms and stuff in the club shop post about wipers and where to get thicker arms , but on a tablet and have no idea how to copy and paste . the link .... pete

Hi , you should be able to remove the tapered bearing race but access to removd the outer cone does need a special internal legged puller and this needs to fit down the small gap between the pinion shaft and the ring you need to remove, I doubt if it will prise out like you can the seal Changing the outer bearing wont upset any mesh settings , but may need some checks that the preload needed is about right or you will get noise on overun if its slack if the diffs out its possible to remove the bevel gear carrier with the shimes and then knocknout the offending brg cone fit new and reassemble, you are supposed to spread the case to fit the carrier and shims but many get away with out it especially if no shim changs are made. Let us know how you get on Pete

Would it cover the repairs needed after the unwraping stage !!! Pete

Yes here's wishing everyone a really Happy Christmas especially after a long year , lets hope the disasters ease and smiles take over and yipee to the drop in fuel prices, And what the best way to tell the wife you wanted a workshop manual and youre going to get socks !!!! Regards Pete

On the conversion front , I reworked a spitfire IV 4 Sync. internals into an overdrive box on the Vit6 as the whine, however characteristic it is got on my wick, another one of the best mods to make for easier driving, in design 1st was an emergency low , most will pull away in 2nd and twas never a gear for main stream use , for places like starting off fully laden or a quick zip up Porlock hill or HardKnot with diff gearing ratio's highering the need for 1st became more needed and 4 sync became the normal across the trade. pete

Are you sure its arota flex spring , they are flatter I think, im with john check the centreing and the diff mounts and diff front palte and bushes, also for side to side discrepancies and a drop plate is the cheapest and simplest solution if the cause is unfounded. check you may need longer studs , if you go for a 1" plate you find the long studs foul the tin cover and makena wonderous racket. happy xmas

Is this with the car sitting on its tyres or , jacked up? Seems your pic has not loaded pete

Its normal for us to cancell the pub meeting due on December 22nd and this year is no exception There is just too much tearing around at this time of the year and we hope to have a noggin and natter early in the new year the pub is open so if you need to escape ...feel free.. it just wont be a supported evening..... happy christmas Pete

Thats a 'Cracker' Pete

forgot you can use this in 'open' mode without signing on so now Im a Guest... who would have guest Ha Pete

thats Ok then , Im no guru on introduction dates/ etc certainly things like MKIV spitfire had 4 synchro so its was a bit of an assumed guess that the last range of herald would follow suit not trying to give a bum steer just thinking aloud about how things developed regards Pete

Gb is herald 1200 commision numbers ,, is this is likey to be a 3 synchro box , I would expect the 13/60 to be 4 synchro Some Data shows all heralds to be GE gearbox Not GB there is no CB ref. This may be a reconditioners number time to whip the top cover off and see if 1st is helical teeeth with sychro hub or its a straight cut tooth which slides into mesh ( EG, has crash 1st gear) If your 1360 has sychro on 1st you may not want this GB prefix unit sorry more questions than solutions the joys of classic's pete

Yes you can certainly use it. to back up just what it is , whats the gearbox number stamped on the top exposed face of the gear case ? Just to one side of the top cover pete

Yes, but refrase the bell housing to front cover , the cast heavy bit is common , its only the knock out cover that changes, the scroll is that helical groove you can see inside the centre cover, works by the spining shaft works the oil back towards the gearcase so always park 'up hill' Ha !!! Peter

Think senior moments are getting more frequent, thats a scroll seal, dosnt have an oil lipseal advantage is it wont ever wear out but will leak if parked on steep hill or if overfilled my grey matter got the design back to front, and i dreamed of other manufacturer. must try harder Pete

cant see from the photo but the smooth ground shaft has to have a cover with a lip seal pressed inside, the scroll type has a very obvious helical scroll on the shaft and no space for a lip seal , the nose cover with the seal its only a light tap fit in the bell housing , the bell housings are the same what ever seal /cover is fitted its easy removable so if youre cover has a seal inside its correct Pete

the box you show must have an oil seal in the front cover ( lightly pressed into the clutch housing) if your exiting happens to have a scroll then this cover and seal will need changing , theres also gasket between the clutch hsg and the front face and the two lower bolts need a copper washer and some seal in the threads. as they piece the box below oil level. Pete

There is always float due to the bearing design, the shaft is supported in the flywheel spigot bearing so then its controlled at both ends. And no wiggle when in car. the main unseen wear points are the mainshaft spigot, supported by a small bearing inside the shaft you are trying to wiggle and the layshaft spindle which can suffer needle pick up which dgrades the shaft surface.

You can with a fiddle get the matrix out from a smiths, I have no idea about the Delaney, garden hose on the tubes shifts some crud but will flow well with only a couple of tubes cleared, doesnt mean the many others are flowing. valves can clog up like Eddie's tubes check you have a std. 82c thermostat and its working. cold climates went to 88c but thats too hot for normal english climate and is more common on younger leaner cars of the 70-80s Pete

its known that you cant mix or refill empty systems with glycol or OAT organic , everthing has to be fully cleaned or it can gel and block waterways so guess it depends on the basic make up of waterless, as the cars have lasted OK for years , I cant see waterless being an investment apart form not having to replace it from time to time . Pete

I know not all inserts fit all blade carriers , but is there any mileage in marketing inserts . just cut to length , as an option ? Pete

Think thats a good move let us know if things improve pete

you can fit the early 6 screw into a bayonet ring by trimming the float unit platform to suit the diameter or the bayonet sealing ring did this on my 64 Vitesse6 as fitted a new tank from Fitchets , this was herald sized with the bayonet ring , so just cut the disc to suit you cant change the float unit as 6 hole is generally totally different resistance to the bayonet, due to different gauge design which must be matched whilst we gained some boot space we also reduced the range and joined the frequent filling station visitors list Pete

and as some don't replicate the points operating position you must re check the timing when fitting some units to make sure its correct after fitment. Pete