Pete Lewis

A smear of sealant and a good hand tight is all thats needed on the adaptor the sleeve nut with olive only needs enough to crimp the olive to the new pipe overtightening will only crush the olive and make removal difficult and will probably leak once the pipe nut is nipped it needs about 1/2 turn max to compress the olive and seal it and a squirt of lube on the hose clip spiral makes easy tightening in dificult locations pete

After much searching to find a Pub that suits our needs ,has good car park with lighting ,a room to use without upsetting Diner's and a good selection of beers on tap and enthusiastic publican and after many a good pub crawl have come up with THE CROWN PH 104 High Road Shillington Beds SG5 3LP we continue to meet on the Fourth Monday of each Month, (not the last ) around 8pm The Rising Sun at Halls Green served us well but was at the very edge of the member scatter, we developed a map with all the members post codes and it was clear a corridor from between south of Bedford and west of Hitchin was the centre line of all and as the Crown does not do Meals on a Monday evening we have the whole restaurant area available to use as we please, so we may now be able to hold talks and informative evenings as things evolve the first meeting is 23rd February 8pm all are welcome you dont need a car or membership to join in thanks Peter

I posted on here somewhere that when removing the pipe the hose snapped off the down facing spout of the banjo elbow item 4 all very corroded and past their best . if this happens there is a nice brass one available, but the banjo bolt can be a swine and more than often shears off then its manifold off and much sweat and tears ...luckily mine unscrewed with the fingers after a couple of flats undoing. the adaptor at the pump end you are talking about can be stiff and the sleeve nut may be stuck on the tube so when you undo ,the old pipe goes around with it .. make sure the banjo spouts and the pump adaptor are clear as these do get obstructed with crud pete

This doesnt need proving but measure the front end voltage ,,,,,,,, with the lights ON Never found one yet anywhere near the 14,5 running voltage This has to be one of the most cost effective upgrades that really works No kid yourself bulshine or fancy bling, just good old simple stuff. Pete

Fitted a modern uj to the Vit6 makes another good upgrade for just a few ££ can be a bit tight under the turret , but did have to jockey between the 631 the column , rack postion far more direct than the old flexi disc and bushes pete

They are a good upgrade, no more battery , lazy cranks even width a low battery state it will still fling it over at a new rate of cranking

There is also the colapsible slide clamp just below the tube, this is designed to shorten on impact it can also lengthen , the simple proceedure to nip up the allen key bolt and locknut is to make it grip ut not be ridgid, the saddle clamps on the outer tube can also be loose allows up and down shift alway keep a gap between switch cowl and handwheel or the horn will toot on corners pete

Have fitted these to a number of 6 cyl and you must retain the spacer I would expect the spacer to also be used on the 4 cyl as its used to correct engagement with the std starter the geared versions follow the same principle but Garth will have the definitive Pete

well done Bob good call of success from a nightmare Glad its all gone well, Pete

Having had the 2000 since june it was soon found the excessive and big wheel twiddling was making uncomfortable drives or im just too old and dont eat enough shreadred wheat. with its low ratio rack and big handwheel the simple joys of country curves was less than appealing experience. just the amount of hand wheel turning made roundabouts a need for caution or you take an early exit. having purchased a full kit from Chris Witor its been on the shelf a few months but the new year brought about some enthusiasm to fit it. with some help from Ray only its taken a few days to fit the engine front plate and crossmember and rack, pump, change the stg arms etc. there's a lot of stuff to change but the difference is truly amazing shes a delight to throw around and no leaks, interestingly the cam timing had been set incorrectly by the previous owner , by engine number ( after 50001) the cams are asymetric exhausts and the crank has to be set back 2deg btdc when the rockers on 6 are balanced , this takes a good bit of trial and error and much gear twiddling to align the right set of holes . but all has transformed the car from a lumbing tub to a bright and responsive lady now whats next..... Pete

In the process of fitting out the T2000 with power steering and fitting a stainless under manifold bypass tube the crappy alloy 3 way decided it was going to resist any upgrade and pulling a hose off, also ripped off one of the outlets OH Bum anyway a new shiny brass one from Canley, s with new banjo bolt and await the shearing of the old and nasty 40 year old one and against all normallity a quick crack with a spanner and it unscrewed with the fingers now why was that, its supposed to shear off and become a nightmare Thats sped upnthe test run by 3 days pete

Yes sold it to a previous MG guy back to croydon where it was first registered not convinced he kept her as had not told his wife what he had bought her. compared to his Mg he was amazed how quick it was and an exhaust note to die for but hey ho now flat cap and slippers call being a whimp just fitted power steering test drive any time now happy new year Pete

now ive got something big and Blue !!!! so whats been gowing in the garage ??? welcome back Calvin Pete

also make sure you havent got a aftermarket 0.7" master cyl fitted to a car that should have 0.625" makes a world of pedal effort difference Pete

Then there, s places like Holdens or carbuildersolutions, com good variety if not exact pete

if you buy the covers , foams , diaphragm and if you fancy a run up to Luton , its easy enough to fit covers and drink tea Pete

pretty much all constant depression carbs be they stromberg or su need more fast idle than expected less than 2000 but more than 1000 or they choke to death on full choke. might make cold starts a bit brisky but soon caan be 'pushed in' as soon as initial warm up creeps in. the fast idle cams do wear and often the tappet screww gets a groove as this is hardly ever lubricated over the years you loose revs . make sure you nip the locking nut when re adjusted. this applies to the SU jet drop , stromberg Thames barrier , and the later side mounted starting valve chokes . Pete

Had a tour around ivor searles who is the company used for your club shop engines a realy well thought out processes and with meticulous cleanliness, and refreshing enthusiasm not often found in machine environments these days well impressed peter

On full choke you need around 1500 rpm the first 1/2" should raise the idle to about 900 if the fast idle cam tappet is not opening enough it does what you have it becomes over rich and chokes itself to a lumpy stall set the tappet to give a small gap to its cam. pete

and never grease the front trunions truinions used EP90 GL4 spec to fill the threaded trunion bush which holds oil as in a reservoir. some leave the nipples in some remove and replug to prevent leakage etc. grease is used on propshafts , drive shafts , steering rack, rear hubs bearings ( again a plugged port) many have two grease guns one for oil one for grease and if youre servicing , an oil can for all the bits that move, door locks and throttle links and one important one a squirt of engine oil down inside the distributor base plate as the top dizzy bush is not engine lubricated and these wear easily, some have a felt pad in the base of the dizzy , just a squirt or two down below the base plate will work fine . Pete

the OD does have a series of bearing internally , the thrust race could give a whine but fluttering noises dosnt sound like any mechanical problem if the anulus planets are all out of line and were not fitted or 'timed' on a repair then than can set up a vibration noise as the load is runthro only 1 of the 3 gears inside. not fluttering though Pete

I'll echo Garry's advice Pete

robin i wont be reprofiling needles but willing to have a experienced ,look, listen, and even colour tune and exhaust gas check. if needed we can certainly look at the state of your strombergs and do some work on them should you wish to refit them regards Pete

as your local to me why not pop over for a cuppa and a look see if they are ok its easy if a rebush is needed ive used the carb exchange in leighton buzzard Pete

Are you certain its from the OD and not something making contact when accelerating torque is applied pete