Pete Lewis

you dont want resistive anything on our cars, all quite useless, I guess these were in the form of use for radio suppression, unless youre using medium wave most FM frequencies dont seem to pick up ignition intereferences you need all the spark you can get so youre right to never use plugs with an R in the suffix and suggest respectful disposal of the caps in the bin Pete

All three rails look and are the same the serial prefix denotes the spec of the box, any spitfire box will start with an F herald with a G this will change ratio, s input shafts, output flanges to suit the model ranges its fitted too. As said the switch bracket is a common fitment to support either a reverse or overdrive switch on any of the model range be it herald spitfire, vitesse , Gt6 , Bond etc pete

Also another good old fault thats like you have is check the coil is correct polarity ie the dizzy link goes to the neg coil terminal and the ign feed to the positive This is for negative earth for older models postivive earth is the opposite again this can work well for a while , it stops , you get out and faf around , the coil cools and works again well before stoppping again check also for fuel connections sucking air between pump and tank again will idle for ever but on demand fails after abfew minutes of load . Pete

There are some very poor condensers about , and they seem to perform as you describe, as the fuel system has been disturbed one very common cuprit is slivers of fuel hose get cut off when fitting to the metal pipes, these float about and end up blocking the back , unseen hole in the float needle gets held there by fuel pressure and the float level drops and you get the 2 3 cly misfire as only one carb is functioning, when you stop the pressure drops the debris works back to the pipe and then off you go again till it returns take off the float tops remove the valve, clean behind it, pump, some fuel into jar the cuplrit often then shows itself pete

GE is early 13/60 would have been a cd 150 stromberg as std. Depends what head is fitted to determine the compression ratio as a rough guide any spitfire spec with hs2 would be somewhat close apart from the what cam what head diferences. Pete

quick search shows lots of reasons/reviews why they are better below 7c but didnt see much to advise about in the warm and dry summer I guess the name says it all winter /mud & snow Pete

The bracket wqs used for reverse and an oposite fit for overdive, but then the cam had a double lever the extended remote was std if you needed a reverse or overdrive inhibitor. not shown much for herald but search any vitesse or gt6 and these brackets get shown pete

You can get 7mm wide arms to add load to the blade but need a blade to match other thoughts are there is aften a extruding medium left on the blade edge which can be difficult to remove from the squegee lip also with the arm vertical check the arm is realy parallel to the glass, if its off then you get the blade judder , simple to use a small adjustable spanner to give the arm a light twist to align it. I did get a pair of modern aero blades with the fully sprung leaf, the arm fitting was appalling sizeand needed a 10mm arm, they may have worked but with such ashort blade was like having a hedgehog going back forth. always make sure the arm is not in contact with the blade carrier causing a resistance to screen contour pete

Thats the std set up for a box with no taping on the top cover, overdrive would have adouble cam and a opposite mount brkt. With another switch. brackets vary some are on the top cover screws as youres, some come off the remote studs pete

They do take a week or three or so to post these off, worth a carefull read on mine it said it was despatched 10 years before it was built but a quick call got a replacement without the typo next day a very useful document pete

ROger your English's is better tan my typing Ha,,!!! Pete

Hi roger , i also started a tools and tips on october 20th but it didnt take off having run the last ( Lost) forum we had a load of idea's in tips and odds and sods but I cant be doing all that again. its a good place but with no chapters or headings to browse things like this just get lost unless you wade through the whole thing Pete

Here, s hoping you have a 13/60 ?. early gearbox needed a extention to the remote with a cam and top mounted bracket later like the 13.60 may have as you describe a blanking plug under the remote housing its tunnel off to have a look see, if no plug then you need parts and bracket like shown on eg GT6 with overdrive of a seperate dash switch with a bright warning lamp, or buzzer pete

most servo stick on due to the air valve not releasing, and blocked filter or misalignment of the piston rod through the case. having said that ive had tested servos of all types over the years on warranty work and my aftermarket universal one supplied to all did exactly the same as you with the experience, delightful on entering a roundabout for a quick exit...noooo youre stopping. always a 2 -3 second delay despite much strip and examine , upping the air valve spring rate and ensure all is free , it was replaced in an air of unnatural giving up, the replacement was totally different better assist and instant disengage ,,,, why....dont have a clue, Pete

think Bern has a plan with a new club sticker Pete

other things to improve the volt drop is to add a bonded earth from bonnet direct to the battery earth tag, also worth bonding the body tubs and chassis My Vit6 was a 64 and with the original set up gave 10.5 volts at the pointed end . with halogen bulbs and 14v you need sun glasses to dim the road sign reflections the improvement is as said the best thing you can do for peanuts , I agree its a no -brainer this is the cheapest modification you can do easilly with amazing improvement, Pete

Monroes are fine , good standard shocker , up market from the multitude of black looks like a shocker thats always available unless you have deep pockets and access to a chassis dyno its very difficult to DIY settings that cover all ride conditions,many of us leap into the trap of Ooh Argh shiney, adjustable aftermarket bling and upgradeable stuff having spent a fortune many wont say well its actually worse.. ...that spoils the fun, but unless you are seriously into hybrid specs , for serious modifications many add on's are very hard to improve in a shed what manufacturers do with development/.experimental and dynamometer measured specifications, but dont let that spoil your fun Pete

and when all fitted check the toe in of the rear wheels , with the specied 150lbs on each seat getting the rears right is most important if you dont want it to bump steer or bunny hop on pot holes etc. Pete

from a design life point i would expect the more solid version to crack due to heat expansion stresses more so than the more open version but thats a drawn down from retired grey matter !!! Pete other variables could be the diameter of the downpipe ,and its sealing flange when comparing Mk1 1600 throught to big saloon Mk1 2ltr might all be the same but I dont have any to measure Pete

if you want to run up tp sunny Luton id be pleased to run through what youve done, if you have used clourT and balanced what other improvement wold you expect, is there some other undelying problem ?? remember there's no magic with these just stick to basics, when supplied to the line they would have purely been set to a jet height and a thottle stop , and whacked on and they would run , flow settings and more stringent pre set controlls where not about when these were designed . if the basics are correct they do their job, but if you fancy a run a cuppa and a overview , let me know I did manage an emission workshop for 10 years in the 70/80s Pete

have had some tel calls and chats with Tony its solved as kn filter backplate gaskets were not cut to suit the breather ports , all good now Pete

John, think its time you had a medal for this work ...brilliant gets my vote Pete

you should wring the baulk ring onto the cone with a good firm rotational grip, it should grab the cone and lock on there should be a gap between the ring and the dog teeth, the gear dog teeth must have a well defined 55deg angle chamfered on the end of the dog tooth, and a same on the sliding sleeve its these angles that allow baulk and rock over when synchronised, if all rounded, blurred and chimbled look for some replacements make sure you get the correct springs in the sleeves 1/2 is different to 3/4 easy to make too weak or too strong.if mixed up. regards Pete

if a leak and resultant mess is a worry then fit a sender to the Tee and electric gauge Pete

canley sell them Pete