Pete Lewis

Just another thought on any piped connections to any engine ...engine noise can be transmitted up the pipes or from the tubes inside the gauge if you use a plastic pipe they dont transmit the vibrations if you use metal pipes you need to ut the pipe and add a short lenght of rubber pressure hose, if you get needle vibrations on oil or vacuum you need to add a damper , often made from anshort length of bundy crushed with pliers till it damps to a smooth reading it was common to add a coil in the tube run to lessen noise pete

Firstly they are not therevto worry you into depression, but a good indicator of reducing oil performance and yes general engine bearing conditions, with a good quality 20/50 oilmthe triumph spec is 40 to 60psi at 2000rpm to fit you remove the low pressure switch located on the oil filter side of the engine, add the tee peice and refit the gauge pipework and the switch just test for leaks when done Pete

well done ] Pete

the mintex take a bit of bedding in ( see my earlier post with proceedure) re check your bearing end floats are OK , as this can give too much pad push back ans you loose some pedal. Pete

if you talk to MP about a rebuild of your 4 spd ask about the costs of using a 18mm spigot mainshaft and a modified stem gear to match, the 1/2" Mainshaft spigot is the weak link in the std gearbox as its a carry over from the standard 8/10 and is the most frequent failure in the std 3 rail box , on a vitesse you need mikes modified stem gear , the 18mm spigot mainshaft is DOLLY vintage Pete

They have been fitted by car and truck manufacturers since discs were introduced right through to the present day they feel its needed , and on a bike you dont get the wash spray from the other wheels tyre pumping water across the track of the vehicle pete

They are to protect the disc from water and road dirt, the outer has the wheel nave pete

The data is open to members Pete

If you make one get some silcon sheathed wire and make it long enough to allow the base plate to rotate as the vac unit advances it. its hot enviironment and std wire plastic will go very solid , the silicon stays flexible you can solder to the original ,eyelets if you remove the old welded in wire pete

Think a orig workshopmanual, and do bomework on keeping the liners clamped down for when the heads off. its al pretty straight forward, make sure you drain the block from its own drain tap, plug pete

Good point, another regular is the short hose on the suction pipe out of the tank, old gets hard and sucks air pete

Make sure no gasket or air flilter is covering any of the ports in the carb outer face, check the dizzy cam spindle for wear , give it a good press sideways this means the point gap is changing as the cam spindle rotates. check the 12volt lead coil to dizzy is on the negative terminal check the small cotton coverd lead in the dizzy which earths the base plate is sound. dont use any spark plugs with an R in the suffix many new condensers are empty and new makes things worse Pete

just be aware that getting stems that need some lubrication too dry will end up with a bigger problem of seizing, there has to be some clearance just not oval or excessive, youve made the right move dumping the 'spawn' also check the breathing pete

there is a opening in the top casting body which is open to the round hole in the front face , ring any time im awake ha ! Pete

fitted a pheonix 6 3 1 to the 1600 ( as mk1) and the 3-1 collector leaked like a sieve, as this is intended as a slip joint, as there's alot of pipe expansion movement the only solution was to cut a slot, weld some tags with a bolt and turn it into a clamp or it blew all the time, no sealer would withstand the movement club shop had some mk1 tubular from Bell ..lifetime warranty on these Pete

thats good. while your are inside have a look at the throwout bearing it should be 19mm thick, if its 15mm as many repro are then the lever you are about to fit is let say off balance in its leverage and is angled a bit 'late' you can remove the pivot post and add a washer under the spherical pivot to 'make it taller' this helps correct the over centre action of the lever .if needed just a thought pete

they are heat treated, to take the wear of the spherical post , had the same its not uncommon repair or second hand is the only option. Pete

Hi where are you located ??? I would like to see this, but dont own a private jet ha ! Pete

you should have a short arm pump 208493,, if this is what you have and its a long arm then supply is incorrect to part number. the longer arm tkc3417 was used on late 1500 with the spacer ukc8523 late spit IV and early dolly/spit 1500 used rkc1624 without spacer some evolved changes were push on pipe fittings well something like that !! yes if using the spacer you need longer studs , a setscrew can be used but needs the threads sealing to prevent sump oil leakage and a stud gives better location. pete

drop dave rummens a line he's your club register secretary for vittesse hes in the courier Pete

as you have both engines carefully measure the head depth if they are the same , thats a good start think all 1500 had same valves , inlets on 1300 after engine FC25000 had larger inlets than the 1500 , Pete

Like your idea of a 4A goes well and prettier styling, Pete

in 1966 I sheared one in a 59 948 Ha !! and to agree with Casper I confirm my 64 HB diff 1600 had the larger dia output shafts Pete

have used bullet proof ford and landy studs over the years ..straight in , may need a file to clear the front hub shoulder. then there's stick to triumph and go for the T2000 or TR 7/16" again straight fit . do anything to get away from the piddling 3/8" studs and youre safe for the future Pete

the whole range can be done 'in car' the only variable is on some you need to angle, fiddle , raise engine , shift rack etc to get the pan to clear the oil pump and strainer, as said important to measure the float and compare with whats fitted to get the right thickness , make sure you mark the bearing cap so you keep it the same way round . Pete