GT6M

Heres a wee tip for ye, the small bolts, nuts ont lock, are awkward t,get at, Butt, drill a hole int door, and a 1/4 drive socket will fit thru, and its alott lottt easier getting at them this way, than bending dubble, an twisting yer wrist around in a confined spot they should be studs in them, not bolts if some ones replaced studs wid bolds, then try an go back to studs, and, a small Nyloc will suffice M

Whilst yer at it, there a good chance that the rev lever, is also wrong, yes I no all the books say the same thing,,or nowt at all aboot this prob,!!! butt, the thing needs adjusting in most boxes ive done, even OE ones. no chopped aboot the ..rev idler,.. sits too far forads, and on owa run, and esp in 1st gear, it,ll rattle against the gear infront of it. can , and does rattle in 4,th gear, as the oil flow oft gears, ...shuvs it foradsonto ger infrunt even moer due to play / slackness in lever an idler groove there is play int pins that rev idler fits into., this dont help either., as it can become flattened on 2 sides wot ye gotta doo, is bend the rev arm back a wee bit. which means tek,n it oot, { just one lang bolt, its ont oot side oft casing } put lever int vice an nok / bend back a wee bit, just bottm aif needs bent or bend top aif forads, either way works Butt, first, put on rear adaptor plate, fit yer idler gear in place, can leave spacer oot, nee need for this and with top gear selecter on, and in a forads gear, 1,st will suffice { as first is the worst for noise on overun, rattling away } push the rev idler forads a wee bit, If it touches the gear in frunt, then it needs lever adjusted backwards it,ll all become quite obvious wen yer looking into it ,thru the back plate just wots going on. a torch may help too t,see better into box Ive had boxes in frae so called specialists that have this gear touching the others most likely cos they no no wots going on.,or actually drive em, as its at least an 1/8th away frae the other gear at rest and in gears on a v v olde used box,it dont doo it as much, as its worn away, so no meks a noise,!!! M

Hagg aint checked the sliding joint Pete. it really does clonk at low revs in top an on overun. Note, its a clonk, no a thump, there is a difference, is it deffo a thump, as in thumpin something wid a soft hammer or is a clonk. it will help diagnose alott butt loot is still on sliding spline OR, both diff have massive play in the planets this combined wid the spline wear, is realy bad at low revs,overun So,mebe bothh diffs ev got play in the planets, moer than likely in my findings M

Yer bearing wont mek a thudding noise, they will mek a grinding noise, or a grating noise. Have you checked the tightness of the body t,chassis bolts at rear. could be the end sliding spline joint, { wen was last time ye greased it } as wen splines wear, they move sideways, and its a thuddy clonk, esp on slow speeds an on the overun in top gear. Get odd of it, an waggle it up / doon, If its worn, it,ll move., other thing can be worn UJ,s on back oft prop. butt, this is generally a clonk, no a thump. It could also be a shocker, Ive had cars in that ev a clonk coming frae the shocker. internally worn oot, an clonks for first bit of movement, increases wid speed,or bumps as speed rises. as its working faster. Check yer sliding spline first. Diff no thump, but clonk an whine M

leak sealer wont wuk on Gaskets, it,ll doo its job on rubber type seals, as it meks,m swell up. if yer gonna get it off, use a silicon sealant, or a Loctite type stuff 574 is v v good butt, the flanges gotta be v v clean. the Pen type, its like a grey waxy candle it wuks for a short time, then fails If, yer after a DIY approach, then if ye can identify where its actually leakin frae, then clean it all off, an seal it on oot side wid a sealant, butt,its gotta be spotlessly clean,or silicon sealant wont stick M

Ok, ill churp in wid me own findings 1, got some of the stuff, an gev it to me Brother Ladd, woe does Speedway His engine seized Others ont Speedway scene,said forget it, its useless, it,ll seize yer engine as lots had found oot Me self, got some v v cheep at a race meet I was dooing was goingto { actually did } bung it in me new engine build engine was de rusted internally, it wer spotless, cyl heed too. { acid dipped for a week } bunged the stuff in, and one of the core plugs was dribbling, the yan above engine mount on plug side It dribbled, butt, I no nown this, as it wer,nt at first, but did ona a run t, Moffatshire show Opened bonnet, to check things OK wen there, an the darn stuff ed caught fire on the block, an was burning / sizzlin away nicely there was a wee pool oft stuff in the indent above the engine mount ont block. luckily for me, it wer in a spot where nowt above could ev caught fire If it had been at back, then its a good chance the GB tunnel would ev caught fire, So, decided there an then, this stuff coming oot , drained as much as could, an filled up wid water, then gev a good clean oot, an filled wid normal anti freeze. wen I rang em up t,say aboot it, they said it should,nt doo it, and that it will fire, at v v high temps,. ohh really, yer engine outer block aint at v v high temps is it.!!! there lots of info about this stuff catchin fire, Should ev took a pic of it at time of fire, butt, ne cam wid me then, this pic is of the area after I gev it fust coat of engine pent butt, look closely, an ye can see where it got burned M

same spanners in Wuk,ntn Aldi, are 2.99 got 2 sets on Sun M

Questionee, my Vitesse has one shim,each wishbone/chassis bracket on off side and tyre wear is normal. Nearside has two and is wearing outer edge of tyre more. Anser............If ye got unequal shims, then good chance ye got unequal camber wearing outer edge, this could be tracking issue, caused by rack no being centralised, this meks the adjustable track arms diff lenths, so wheels turn at diff angles also, effects of bump steer will come into play on one side moer than other, check to see if same amount of threads are on each side Questionee, also the top outer edge of this tyre is about 1/2" prouder to the wheel arch than tother (could be different body alignment, chassis twist, though nothing visually wrong on chassis and front and rear sections of main rails are showing level to each other .Anser .............. this could be body alighment, IE body off set to one side a wee bit also, camber, really need t,chack yer camber sett,ns. Questionee, Haven't done camber check yet, but going off tyre wear I guess I could fit yet more shims to off side to correct any excessive positive camber, though, this seems excessive? Anse ..............Positive camber will wear yer outer edges away , period esp if yer drivin wid any sort of spirited driving,!!! no only that, butt yer wheels, { due to susp design } will gain moer + Positive camber as yer wheels turn into a corner Go turn yer wheels to 1/2 to 3/4 full lock, look at the outer wheel, its gon weel into mega positive territory noo aint it, no only that, but the set up aint got proper Ackerman , this shows on yer outer wheel gettin ..Pushed sideways, as yer cars going forads, Go try an push yer car wid full lock on, see if it moves forads easy. Then watch someone try an move yer car forads on full lock, whilst under power. whilst yer watching outer wheel, Wots happening !!!! It will go straight if trackings OKish, butt, remember this, If one wheel is oot, then yer car will pull t,one side Butt, yer steering wheel counters this, an both wheels end up straitgh ahead,ish this is akin to wot was said above aboot rack no central As wen yer steerings turned, yer wheels turn at diff angles, follow,!!! ye really need t,get yer car set up, and wen ye doo, mek sure its LOADED up, as tracking, camber settins, wid an wid oot load do vary so set it wid oot loaded, then yer settings wen loaded will be no good, Most garages will set the tracking / camber wrong, thru being ignorant of suspensionee movements.!!! And, wen its set up, then not to OE specs,unless yer a die in the heart Purist type,!!! M

Yip, thats them Enry Aim for 1.5 degs neg wid yer stiffer springs, camber wont change as much on bump as sprigs will stop it in bump moer than a softer,n M

folk got to remember, there moer than one type of rocker ally box some are tall and thin, wid fins on em, thee,s generally catch on a GT, but dont if fins are ground oft frunts some are wider an less hieght, thee,s have no probs at all some are wider, higher height and ev no probs at all some are wider , less height, and shamfered ends, thee,s catch on the inside ends, 1 and 12 rockers wid 1.65 rockers, or a high lift cam,ok on standard rockers / cam especially ift cork gasket gets squashed doon too much So, no all doom an gloom, if ye no what the prob is M

Good to see ye think its OK,, seems I was right,!!! to me, car looks like it could go a inch lower on frunt as at speed, it will rise up due to under flow of air, As for camber, mek yer self one of thee,s thingys, v easy t,doo, , just get a block of Ply board,about 10 mm thick, and have it cut to the wheel rim lip size. then, cut a wee groove into the top for the nylon string to fit into then wid a protractor, put on a scale of uto 3 or 4 degs either side then, extend the lines with a ruler to the bottom, and here, put on the lines that the sting wid a weight on end will read off against Only need a 1/4 inch line at bottom, , and ontop of that, put on yer numbers or figs this wee thingy has served me well for yers, note this been modded for 15 inch wheels, as its got an extended bit on one side M

+1 to wot Pete says I been useing Silicon high temp gasket goo for yonks never ever a leak wid that stuff too Ive got the Loctite stuff too, v v good it is http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802627223553 M

Eva deek at this, quite a decent job, My self, i just used a biggish output LED int middle, its ok http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,1429428 M

All the cars really should be running 1 - 1.5 neg camber on frunts Unlless that is, ye want to wear the ootside edges off, as the wheels set at 1-2 deg Positive, go to aboot 3-5 degs Positive when wheels turned As JD says, that was for olde tyres butt, for some strange reason, they still set the last Spitty ones positive too. 400lbers - 1 inch compressionee for 400 lb but ont car, at an inclination, as the spring is, its a diff ball game poundage goes well down Clives OK,ish 480 on a Spitty, will be OK for a GT, as its got moer weight owa frunt wheels M

"Race" 650 The last will give a very hard ride indeed!................... Sorry John, but it dont, they are just fine The inclination of the Spring, dictates that a much stiffer spring is needed as to a verticle spring, this also applies to a shocker, set a shocker on an 40 deg angle to 8 clicks now put it on a straight up position, and its alott lott moer hard. this is why the Standard GT6 is way too soft up frunt and even so wid 330-450 lbders too M

Go t,thees blokes, an get some decent springs and can be powder coated to any colour ye like, blak is standard, butt, want another shade, then they are done twice, so twice as much protectionee for normal road use, go for 500 for sporty use, go for 650 or moer 500,s will be fine, esp as ye got adjustables forget aboot any thing less. as it lets car float too much D Faulkner Springs LLP M

Ye still aint said where it leakin at. IF, its leakin at a verticle tube, then 2 optionees 1, if on out side, easy t,get at, ye can clean area, and solder it up can use owt frae a 40 -100 W solder iron 2, if the tube is really shot, then ye can, { if tibe is easy t,get at } snip tbe off top an bottom cut a wee bit of brass,or copper, electric cable wire generally suffices, tin them,, tine the rad bit and solder em into place, both of above will never leak, been there dunit. If its just the pipe connectionees coma loose,leaking, then a blow lamp wid a shafp flame point, clean area up, and feed new solder in agen, been there , dun it, never leaked.yer rads leaking all owa the spot, yer fins have mostly corroded away, then a new core will be better Note, the side folds are steel, thee,s rust, an swell up, and can cause a pin hole,to a bigg hole beint them as the rust has eaten / corroded thru the brass case of rad Be wary getting re con rads, most want yer olde one back t,re core if yer olde one is rotten on the sides, esp strap bits that curl aroond the bottom an top, then they will most likely just rub muck off an stick it back on Ive seen loads like this, not v good workmanship at all M

Moe, RGs cars on TBs TPS is better on TBs butt, can use map as an aid, its just not as quick a responce on MAP as wot TPS is Me own, could have MAP or TPS, went for TPS, and its better in my mind, and driving than me marras 6 on map and this no just frae me, but Ladd woes RR i use and he been at it for years, built,tuned installed 1000,s engines too If yer not familiar wid TPS, then, as I said, folk dont really no about the top an bottom of a setting and even the Infra red type I now ev on, suffers the same prob;ems as the linear type which has a track to move aboot on M

there ne need at all for swirl pots or lifter pumps on a Spitty. Butt, yours is a Herald, then the first pic, { basicly same as my set up, but slightly different } the tank becomes the swirl pot if its modded slightly 2 diff ways, first type is me own set up, M

Wots the type of TPS yer using, Wabash !!!, looks like one. If so, then thee,s, after a while, esp wid heat, the plastic compresses this then alters the TPS setting a wee bit, butt also TPS alters due t,heat effecting the innards. if the thing get v v hot, as it will wid ex pipes near, and nee ventillation as such Also,the TPS, although yer ECU will just register full digits on the TPS window the thing actually es a high and a low, this also alters things, yours got a learning TPS sett,n !! IE, TPS of 20 it can be 20.0 to 20.9 butt only register a 20 this may no sound much, BUTT, the VE window, will show a diff of maybe 5 wid engine off or maybe 8 wid engine running the pic up,is at engine off, movin the TPS 1 click, will move that VE sett,n 5 points thats 5 wot ever extra fuel Butt, yer not, the heat is mainly dooing it T,put it another way, if yer TPS is say set to low 20, { ye wont no, by screen, BUTT, can be found out by the TPS +/- buttons that alter TPS, as 2 clicks may leave it at 20 going up, butt, 1 click may be needed going doon } to give a TPS reading of 1 at idle then VE will alter butt, yer TPS read out on the live screen, may well read 0 if gone down, or read 2, if its gone up. follow,!!! if gone down, an its reading 0, then it fooks all other set,ns up, that are set to a TPS of 1 same too if it goes to 2 at idle, then it stops other sett,n working too like idle control,fuel cut off, Lamba on /off, or what ever ye got matched to it Look at VE / TPS read oot on screen, thees alter wid heat,or movement of plastic as it gets hot /cold, and also the track inside it Ohhh,if ye run Lambda at idle OK run it every where else, ye,ll use alott moer fuel, esp at cruise. M

Nope, no a MOT fail, https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/5-things-our-customers-ask-us-about-mot/ I want to fail a particular item on a modified vehicle. Is there any allowance for this?Where a vehicle has been extensively modified or converted, Reasons for Rejection for components missing where fitted as standard should not be applied. For example: a car converted for rally use (i.e. rear seats removed and fitted with a roll cage and full harness seat belts etc.) may have been converted so as not to require a brake servo or power steering a car converted to a stretch limousine may no longer be fitted with curtain airbags AND, it only applies to AT time of test for other things too. Butt, yes yer correct, they totally useless brakes, or moer to the point, pedal feel an feed back M

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=triumph+GT6+servo+pictures&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwix-I_czdDQAhVqBcAKHesrDKAQsAQIIw&biw=984&bih=573&dpr=1.25#imgrc=jyGnoSh5-JD5aM%3A there should be a blank plug,or its oready been used by engine breather it wa fitted to a llate mod GT i had, totally useless, binned it v v soon brakes ed nee feel, pedal was spongey, and it took alot of room up on bulkhead, just where me Cuppa now sits wen workin on engine The cars fitted wid a servo, had bigger MCs t,try an get pedal movement lower it did,nt wuk v well, So, if ye got the smaller MC 5/8th as opposed t,the 3/4 MC, then yer pedals gonna move even further. esp if yer on bigger rear cyls too. as 5/8th had smaller rear cyls too,if i can recall Note, all servos will mek pedal spongey, lots of travel, just like all moderns pedals move a country mile Can meb,e try a 2 PSI RPV on frunt brakes, and a 10 PSI ont rears as it,ll help wid pedal travel most,if not all moderns ev em already fitted into their MCs noo https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=residual+pressure+valves+for+brakes&client=firefox-b&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwigoIiQ0dDQAhVIIcAKHYGsA6wQ_AUICSgC&biw=984&bih=573 not wot yer wantin to hear, but, me self, Bin it. M

Alot will depend on wot sort of rocker box ye got one I had as v v narrow, and the rockers wer just aboot touching the sides. on this type, the oil flung oft rocker arm /valve, an got sucked oot the pipe used quite alott of oil on this,n +side of this, as it used aboot pint of oil in 500miles, always topp,n up, I had fresher oil in me ingin. Butt, the wols in thee,s things are farr too small. the same size wol is fitted to 1100cc engines as are fitted to 2.5+ size engines. then folk say, me engines leek,n oil,!!!! there is a mod for ye t,doo, an easy mod if ye got some taps, an a bit of tin can., Drill a bigger wol, tap it, and also thread the new bigger pipe, then insert into cover, and fit a bit of tin can owa it, then tighten another ..slim nut,t hold it in spot, loctite it in then folded doon over its self, so as it acts as a baffle Or, ye can just extend yer OE pipe into cover a bit moer, and fit cover owa that. Butt, still got problemo of a smaller dia pipe, which will build up pressure at higher revs which meks yer engin leak oil 2 diff box,s same idea, but each slightly different jobs done, M

under full load at high speed for more than about 5 seconds, it starts missfiring, spitting and popping spark brek,n doon under load is my bet look at plugs, leads, rotor arm, condenser,coil, dizzy cap for traces of arcing,or burning ont electrodes. look at yer dizzy rotor / moveable shaft, is it moving freely, so as the mech advance is working note, closing up of points will alter timing figs Lack of fuel will also doo this, as its running weak Yer diaphragms ok, non returns ok, sure yer pump is OK, checked the lever, is it still there, they doo wear away!!!, which will give less fuel pumpage Sure its not 10 degs either, not that this will be much t,mek it flutter lower int rev range. butt, will be at max revs . M

nahhh, this is definate proof of global warming. M