GT6M

Will check clevis pins are ok , clevis pins easily changed, butt, ovalled other bits requires welding Adjustable MC rod can get rid of quite a fair bit of play front bearings are adjusted & like your suggestion of fixed spacer fitted t,most MGs, so should be able t,get one easy enough oft the useual suspects they should no wot yer on aboot or after Rear drums are rough so ordered new ones + shoes. Pretty sure its the rear brakes letting the side down. I do have long travel - yes thowt so, really gotta set the brakes LOADED up, ever jacked yer car up an tried to turn wheels,if wheels are ..hanging, this is the symptom im onaboot, the brake line alters wid hieght What are RPV Valves ? thees are one way valves that fit into brake lines if on discs all round, then only one is needed the rears requir a stronger,n as they got bigg stiff springs that the valve es t,fight against they keep a ..residual pressure int brake line, so the system is sort of pree charged I bunged one on mine{discs all round } as 4 pots up frunt, and bigg 35 mm pistons at back { yours 13 MM ish } gave a long pedal travel on fust pump after that, it wer OK now, pedal is solid, nee need for pumping NOTE, most modern,ish cars already ev em fitted into the MC as standard https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=brake+rpv&client=firefox-b&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwieodCFvMDVAhVDDcAKHcR7Cy0Q_AUICSgA&biw=1368&bih=807&dpr=1.25 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=2&_nkw=residual%20pressure%20valve&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684 bearing spacer clips https://youtu.be/RJYIXZtnIiw?t=63 https://youtu.be/NIAfepR5VbM?t=71 M M

Look at yer clevis pin, an also the holes that it goes thru All 3 doo wear, clevis wears all roond brake pedal lever an MC lever wear ovalled int line of thrust as Pete says, worn bearings or badly adjusted will mek yer pads suffer pad nok back Can fit a spacer tube, an then tighten hub nut up tight, this way it meks it moer solid an dont ev t,worry about end float as much, as its set for good,!! worn oot rear brake drums are useless, as the cylinders have got moer room t,push the shoes onto drum BEFOER they start t,bite adjusting the brakes on adjuster does nowt, as its ont bottom, cyls ont top, think aboot it, !! AND, rears need t,be adjust sitting in loaded condition, as if done jacked up, then yee,l never ever get em right they become slack whenst set doon, GTs are even wuss for this So check yer rears at ride height wid a load int car Also, what is OK, v v slight drag at push speeds, becomes v v slak when brake drums get hot, as they expand, moving drum away frae cylinders, so cylinders got moer space t,tek up, = moer Brake pedal movement all this adds up to a very long brake pedal travel befoer the brakes bite some times yer pedal can be ont floor, !!! can also bung in a adjustable MC rod, a well worth wee mod Or, get some RPV valves fitted yee,l need 2 as ye got drums an discs, a 2 ana 10 lb version easy t,splice into line will work wonders for yer brake feel, M

nowt t, worry aboot in 100-200 miles it,ll bed in, free up BUTT, I bet ye tried t,turn it frae the half shafts it,ll be hard as gears same size if it done frae prop end, then its a small gear, driv,n a bigg gear, hence easier at least some ones bunged in new thrusts drain yer oil in 200 odd miles, it,ll get rid of the bronze stuff that noo int oil M

As long as timings, an fuel are ok at the sites on map then that map is OK Butt, that map is useless for info, as look at the points of cross owa some thing is amiss, and some one was amiss setting it up,!! butt, good t,see its driving OK after a while, ye will be able t,tek quite alott of fuel oot at cruise sites for better mpg tooo far , and it,ll need moer throttle, so will actually use moer,!! And,if ye fart aboot wid the DFCO, then its possible t,get this set to 1100 RPMs and this on mine, on a run, or a tank is wuth about 5-7 MPG, M

Re olde oil it does go off, and it goes like a thick goo, an it teks some shifting too and it does get water in, as its frae condensation and this comes frae every time it gets hot then cool doon As t,suck,n stuff oot, im afraid t,tell ye, that there be moer sheite left in there than ye think No only that, but the bronze stuff that come oft thrusts, { if they still there } will no be get,n picked up by a magnet, even if ye got one int fill hole. Which, actually collects moer sheite than a bottom plug ive fun oot by actually working on em So, wot ye done by putting new oil in, is that the new oil will meb,e shift some of the caked on sheite and this loosened sheite will then fin its way aroond the diff, causing moer wear, than ever, Get a drill, and drill the bottom, { oil will NOT go every where wen yer drilling } bung a magnet ont drill shank too, it helps and any wee bit of swarf that does go inside, will soon be on its way oot, as oil flows oot whenst drill bit is took away Ive got a rogues gallery of diff parts,all rusted away, whilst been int oil OR, moer to the point, eaten away, by the acids int oil, where CW/Pin sits nearly all bearings that ev no been turn for a while a fooked, cos they get pitted whenst in same spot for a while it also pits wherenyer oil seals sit, so new oil seals no work as good as they shud, thats why 2 some times go in,!! And, yer oil needs changed 2 or moer times a yer esp if yer useing Comma, , castrol, , it goes black, and like thin pish in a v v short time In me own, it wer useless pish after 4-500 mile of warp 1 speeds on back roads Stuff I use noo, dont, its great. butt only after going thru all the others sheite CT ladds will no aboot this, as ive bunged pics and things up aboot this effect As to bolt holes acting as a drain, Nope Unless ye drill at 90 degs frae the inside into bolt hole And, that wee 5/16th wol, will tek an hour or so for oil t,drain oot,!!! been there fun it oot Summary, drill / tap bottom, it easy then change oil 2 times a yer, simples an finally, Oil is cheeper than a diff M

rimmers or moss ev emin at least its says so ont info https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID600064 M

Unless ye got a fuel pressure gaugeplumbed in its a waste of time, as fuel mix will effect spark timing. get a pressure gauge plumbed in on a T bit, wid a long enough pipe t,reach into cabin IF yer PSI is reading 100+ at wotan revs, then proceed Its got t,be a v v good pump t,keep PSI up at WOT an revs only 2 I no off, an I bet ye aint got either !!! if it aint,then forget aboot owt else. honestly, forget aboot it, ye be wasting yer time an LooT been there fun oot,passing on hard earned info M

they will ev on em what they are and ,or they will ev 1 or 2 or 3 rings on em, diff rings indicate diff bore sizes cant tek too much off insides, as it,ll alter seal presssure butt, a wee hone wid a small bore 3 legged glaze buster wid fine grit, an plenty of lube will be OK, done a few this way Be better if some piccys wer bunged up,!! M

Tap it wider wid a metric 9 MM 1.50r a 10 MM 1.5 or a 3/8th UNC or WHIT thee,s if taper taps,will fit in wid oot needing being drilled goingtoo deep, then the threads can come thru the other end let water / moisture in, and it seizes, been there fun it oot And, use a wee bit of thread lok, then ye no gotta tighten as much, and it wont come loose M

Thats my mod, often copied frae aeons ago works v v weel indeed Butt, go too far, and catch wont open, M

Problemo ye got is the PI v v few will no how to do any thing wid it. And, best thing ye can doo befoer ye even contemplate going to a RR is to get a PSI gauge plumbed into yer system either an electric one int car,or a mech one just int feed pipe to MU this cos if yer pump aint giving 100+ PSi at WOT and high revs then yer RR time will be total waste of time / money as if its running weak, then there is no way it can be tuned at top end,or after 4.5 and WOT NOTE, just cos a gauge reads 100 + at idle, or IGN on dont mean it,ll be showing this at WOT an revs yer injectors open at 55-60 PSI ,BEFOER any fuel gets into manifolds so if pressure is down, its no gonna let much fuel in, as ijectors wont be open long enough,or squirt enough when open. So, ask the RR folk if they no how to alter fuel settings for flow at WOT and also other RPM ranges alter one ring, and it alters other rings with it And,if ye got a dirty,or restricted air filter, this will mek yer engine run WEAK, not rich its back t,frunt as to carbs wid PI, !!! M

sounds low, butt,is a 1360 low comp t,start off wid maybe go to 130-140 hot butt, good thing is they all equal M

How have ye solved the problemo of the cable rubb,n on the spring tunnel. at the bottom forward corner. Most cars that use the calipers wid the arm at the side will ev this problemo And, if yer using standard size MX5 discs, then im afraid to tell ye, that yer braking wont be much good. and go bigger disc, which is of the Sport model, 30 mm bigger, then the cable will wear its self away quite fast, as it rubs even moer ont tunnel Wid the Akibono calipers, I recon I could go upto 320 MM then wheel is limiting factor Been there fun it oot. the ones t,use are the Akibono type, thee,s pull frae the center so give alott moer room for the cable And, wot ye gonna doo aboot the lonnnng brake pedal travel on initial take up, got that covered !! if not, then its not a v v nice symptom of a v v spongey like brake , at brake on moments M

Manifolds off at the least and, replace all ye can see, as they will be all about rotted thru the ones ont end of cyl heed are doo,able in situ too butt involved due to restricted space The housing needs t,be really cleaned oot, ne gunge left in the holes where new plug is gonna go Use some sealing compund,like 574, AND, bung in a bootle of K Seal, as they will most likely leak at fust, till its sealed some doo, some dont there are also a couple b,int the frunt an rear end plates just hope they dont go, as its engine oot job NOTE, If ye try an shift the water pipe running along back oft blok, it,ll moer than likely snap off, or will twist an leak an going by the look of it, its ready t,go so either fit a new,n or better still, fit a stainless steeel one May also be stuk into the adaptor int pump back too. good luk M

what ye need is a small electrical tester screwdriver and one wid a croc clip on one end, so it holds onto thingys aboot in most Pound shops or cheep shops And, also, ye really need a wee file, a diamond one will be best, this t,get the spike of the points as if not got rid of that, then sett,n points is impossarble Or, some thing like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-GUNSONS-SPARKTUNE-2-DWELL-VOLTAGE-TEST-METER-BOXED-PAPERWORK-CLASSIC-/122406141628?hash=item1c7ff97ebc:g:bl4AAOSwuLZYz8ta http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPEEDOGRAPH-TUNE-UP-ANALYSER-VINTAGE-CLASSIC-CAR-MOTORCYCLE-TRACTOR-AUTOJUMBLE-/352010360779?hash=item51f573d7cb:g:GSEAAOSwuLZY0DvI http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_sop=2&_nkw=gunson+timing+light&_frs=1 M

Yip, not bad at all, moer or less followed the link I bunged up. next ye want 2 green lights in yer rear number plate holder, !!!! butt, then maybe not, as ye no got a Green car. butt, could put in lights to match car colour ye got, they look good, so ive be told, by many lotsa folk M

In almost all diff I tek apart, the planet thrusts are moer worn on one side than the other must be something t,doo wid ..round a bouts, !!! If ye get hold of the diff input shaft an twist it back,n forads, then the play that will be there, will most likely be the planets, with worn away thrusts this caused by olde oil, not changed often,, all gunge going aroond, wearing things away, and round a bouts int road. straight line driving does not effect planets. Did ye check the sliding spline, for wear, up and doon movements, also side to side as well wid cars age, it,ll be both thats causing yer clonk, as said earlier on. M

there a few reasons why they mostly leak along the frunt 1, Some gaskets ev a covering of glue,or resin on em, this stuff is supposed to melt wen engine get hot. Butt, if the head, block not scrupiously clean it dont stik And, even though it can be as clean as can be, it still dont stik As this area dont get hot enuff t,melt the glue, as its too farr away frae the ..heat. IE, yee,v took a gasket off, and along the frunt, and sides, its no stiking, correct Butt, aroond the bores, its stuk like sheite to a blanket, correct this cos the glue es melted, and its stuk, and it really does tek some getting off.. this can be got aroond by running the engine wid nee coolant for a while Yer engine teks aboot 15mins t,get up t,temp, so running it wid nee coolant will let it get hot quicker , and also let glue melt In theory at least, as this was what some on Speed talk doo, an them ladds no there stuff if its good enough fora 1000HP motor, then it should be good enuff for ours,!!! 2, pressure is a cause. yer gasket aint seal well, cos glue aint set, so wen yer giv,n it some stik, esp wid a worn bore engine, { most will be !! } then the pressure int crank case has t,get oot some where, as that wee 3/8th hole aint gonna let 100 CFAM oot of that wee hole so what happens it it tries t,get oot of other spots yer oil seals, other gaskets, filler cap, it also gets pushed in between the not too good a seal frunt bit thismeks it leak even moer afterwards, as the oil es nooo got between the gasket an blok / heed meaning that it,ll never eber seal noo, 3, yer cyl heed gringing is wrong is, even frae factory,!! look at yer grind marks on heed, they are in a circular fashion, that go ACROSS the heed, just wot ye dont want, as the grooves will mek a path for oil t,flow along. Ye need it t be groove ALONG the length of the heed / block this can be done by useing some Wuff wuff productionee paper and carefully marking it length ways, wrapping it all around the edges of the block heed, for good measure as there 2 bigg water ways at each end too,!! remedies,owa the yers i tried all sorts of things, some of the so called best stuff ont market my way noo, and for yoks noo, is t,use the Blue Hylomar sealant put a thin smear on byath sides of gasget, and also ont block, and heed dont go over board, !! And, try an get some moer engine breather holes,or mek the one int rocker box { if an alloy one bigger } or put in another one ye really need some thing that adds up to aboot an inch or moer,!! think aboot it, that vent is the same size ona 900 CC original Standard motor, as it is on a 2500 cc car it dont tek a rocket scientist t,work oot something aint right noo does it,!! that is, if ye no what the OE size was int fust spot, I give me car some stik, it gets revved alott up owa 5 k alott in top this is where yer goona build up alott of internal pressures and, mine dont leak, just ask some folk that seem mine, or meb,e yeev seen it yer self, never any oil aboot. Noo then, look at this vid clip of a GT ont rollers, and see, that as revs rise, there aint much oil smoke Butt, look at wen its held top gear revs for a wee while, the smoke is belting oot of the Expansionee tank its no only belt,n oot of there, butt it,ll be coming oot of other spots ye cant see, Try this yer sell, tek yer pipe oft rocker box and rev yer engine, there will most likely be a good ole gale force wind blowin oot of it, this is just wid the throttle hardly open, butt, wid WOT, it,ll be 10 time wuss, hope this es given ye sum food for thowt, and meb,e try some of me tips yer self. Vid clips https://youtu.be/AiFABPt7b3U?t=30 https://youtu.be/b35v9NR85og M

I use Trunk Monkey, fantastic. https://youtu.be/AidAXgq9dWc M

warning,befoer its fitted, there some holes init, thee,s wer drains for the OE orientation, they let water in, the water runs along the bottom, into the pluger contacts, buggers them up no end also, gets into the brush pack, and really buggers that up there also maybe some holes at the other end, that,ll let water in, check it oot, drill another wol at the new bottom, this let water oot ev a good read thru here, see wot im on aboot http://www.clubtriumph.org/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1455479990/ M

need to watch the others the John, yer answers in there You an me got a decent understanding of things butt, there lots on here aint, so it was a good set of clips to show just wots wot, and how diff things work with,or agenst each other Tek bump steer for instance, just how many folk actually understand what causes it a simple live action thing shows just how easy it is to see, an not try an visualize in yer heed, M

have a good watch of thee,s vids I bunged up ont TR sitev v informative, even for the ..informed folk,!! http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/61174-suspension-design-for-all/ M

I did this, saves alott of greif,!! every noo an then, a squirt wid grease gun wid oil in it M

thees things, Petes link no come up. get em in sets of 3, last ones in Aldi 3.99 https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=step+drills&client=firefox-b&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi-xoub_avSAhUGBMAKHZVMAM0Q_AUICSgC&biw=984&bih=573&dpr=1.25 its well worth cutting extra bigger holes int door they hidden by door card any way BUTT, pent egdes after yer done, keeps the dredded rust at bay where 724192 goes, they are studs, same as mine https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Triumph+spitfire+door+handles&client=firefox-b&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiGtJLq_avSAhVKDsAKHUq7ChsQ_AUICCgB&biw=984&bih=573#imgrc=eqtzkLVbVjfrVM: M M

Peter asks can you remove the lever without dismantling/removing the gear train again! Ye need t, assemble the gears t,fin oot where its gonna touch. as can be seen, the rev idler is just sit,n on a stub on the rev lever wid top cover on, fit it into first, then gently push the idler forads if it touches gear hub, then adjust it backrads, hold int vice, and a good wack will shift it a wee bit, NOT too much at a time then re check, still touching, another tap backwards, re test ye,ll soon get the nak of it when the rev lever bolt is took oot, then the lever can come up oot the top of the box IT has t,be assemble t,see where its gonna touch., which can be seen thru the back OD adaptor plate It wont doo ye ne harm to have a few pre run builds either,!!! Another few wee tips for ye, the thrusts, if worn doon a bit, then some shim steel fitted to the backs will mek the free play up saves ye buying new ones, IF they can be got to yer size of extra thickness the thrust at back, is small, this teks all the thrust, can get a frunt thrust, CUT the top bit away, { or it,ll touch the first gear } butt, leave a tang there, then bend tang owa,like original, so it will lock into casing, this way, ye got a bigger thrust where its needed its no much,maybe an 1/8th but it helps yer limited to size oft laygear ends Check laygear end is smoothe, or it,ll soon eat into a new thrust, an mek gaps bigger so back t,square one. bigg thrust gaps whenst fitting the layshaft, thrusts can, an doo drop doon, a real pain in the butt solutionee, a few drops of supa glue ont backs, then fit em onto layshaf, insert into casing, and odd till set layshaft centers em, wait till set, and then yer thrust will no dropp oot { ye really need an olde layshaft cut doon, or a bit of bar, even some wood dowel will suffice and slightly chamfer the ends, so it finds its way past thrust into casing easier } fill yer lay gear rollers wid SLD { Shirt lifters Delight }, an as cold as ye can get it this will hold the needles in spot, an then melt away wid heat Grease dont, so could,mek yer needles run dry nowt wuss when a needle has dropped oot, and ye gotta tek the whole thing t,bits agen, t,get the needles back in, grrrrr THIS, is also needed on 3 rd gear split collets. really smother the area wid SLD, then they wont part,an drop oot Be very wary fitting mainshaft onto rear bearing, as tapping it in, can shift the tolerances up onto the gear thrusts then it seizes solid whenst its running after fitting, mek sure the gear to thrusts moves, if it dont, tap / adjust till it does Note, it dont say owt aboot this int book, so beware of it, or yer box will seeze in nee time Dont forget the bottom bolt int bell housing needs a copper wesher, as this goes to inside oft casing an loctitie for piece of mind Same too for 2 top OD bolts on OD { if its been stripped or took oot } thee,s go into OD insides Dont use gaskets, use a silicon sealant, or LT 574, never ever any leaks Dont put bolt an nyloc nut into bottom of gear lever the wrong way round or ye wont can get 3rd or 4th gears,!!! bolt heed towards casing side, { Pass side } If ye got clutch oot, an put,n in a new,n, then use the First motion shaft to line the clutch up whilst GB is in bits Dont let GB drop / hang onto clutch, it,ll bend the plate, then it,ll all ev t,come ott agen, as yer car will be hopping along the road,, or hopping aboot yer garage, whenst revs are up,!!!! and it,ll also bugger yer first bearing up too. and also,if really bad, yer bearing inside the 4th gear, Read an digest a few time what ive said, it,ll save some heartache,!! good luk M