GT6M

Slight ,or heavey rust on tools then dunk it in a solution of Phoshoric acid over night. iff chromed stuff, then keep an eye on it for eating this away if uncromed,like alot of olde spanners, then leave it in a while longer hotter the acid, the better it works, they come oot a nice dull bright grey, and wid a phosphric coat on too, this deters rust as weel, M

So me own olde GT spring did same Ron ordid ye no turn it aroond, t,se if it wer actually spring. be up int morning to maybe get to bottom of this cunnundrum For them no seen the car, Its got a bigg list its a swinger spring, so should be able to ..settle, but it aint and it does seem to have got worse lately too. Tracking is oot a bitt, as this shown it up even moer when it wer reversed up the path butt, generally reversing adds neg camber, this gev it lots of pos, at least 4 degs or moer of it its not trunnions in axle, they free drive shafts same length too It could be frunt spring heights, but, frunt is sitting square t,road which would be a wee bit off if it wer this Ohh,Ron should bung some pics up of his new Man Cave for ye all t,se v v nice it is M

IF any damage woud have been done, it would have been to the bores as the fuel dilution would ev took the oil covering of the bores. as nee spark /bang to ignite it, it is a.. wash down... sort of actionee on the bores gon a long way, then rings / bores could have suffered Butt, then agen,it could ev actually removed some glaze frae the bores, to could actually be working better on that cyl All depends on just hoo far it went,or what was needed t,doo damege,or doo it some good M

Olde engins, never been apart, always best to run engin wid the cyl heed nuts took off. 1,ooooooooooos of explosions of ign / combution will brek the seal and yer also getting heat into the subject too. too late noo though !! re studs an nuts, be carefull ye no strip the threads, esp wid a half nut,!! mix some thinners an ATF fluid up,60 /40 ish bung this in /on the studs,, it,ll soak doon the stud holes much better than any other stuff M

they are 1/2BSP Butt, dont use the fittings that every Usual suspect sells, or,the hydro spots for fittings reason, a 1/2 BSP wol ina hydro fitting is like a 3/8th or less. t,get a 1/2 inch ID, yer going tobe going to 3/4 fittings, which are huge. try an use household copper pipe and fittings thee,s still ev a 13 MM wol thru em, yer oil hole feed frae pump is 9/16th, so why would one want to restrict their oil flow wid useing too small a fitting is beyond me comprhensionee some folk fit 3/8th BSP, go figure wot sort of restrictionee they make. Use copper pipe, or, use the chromed stuff, and only use a bit of rubber pipe for flexing as it goes t, cooler end see pic,nice an neat,an leaves alot moer room, compared to big rubber pipes end pipes are high pressure hydro hose pipe.1000 psi busting an oil resistant at temp too M

IF, it is wheel bearings, then ye shud be able to fathom which is which quite easily wheel moves, then its bearings or studs or bushes wheel moves WITH brake on, then its bearing or bushes check tsee if bushes are moving, whilst brakes still on, and some ones try,n t shift the wheel its no bushes, then its bearings. NOTE, if it is, then change em fast, as if not dun, it,ll snap the shaft where theouter but is, basicly where the threads meet the shaft this wheel decided to come adrift for that reason, was gonna change it on Sat, but it decided to snap shaft befoer Sat M

20 / 40/50/60 are ALL a basic 20W oil its the additive packages, an the way the oil is med that meks it go to a 40/50/60 W basicly, the hotter the oil gets, the thinner yer oil gets {loook into yer chip pan, thick wen cold, like pish wen hot or yer butter, solid cold, runny whenst warm, concurr, } butt, with the multi grade oils, they ..supposed.. to ticken up as they get hotter. Butt, the cheeper oils, brek doon v v fast, so thats why oil pressure drops, they reverting to a 20W oil, or maybe a 20/30 Commas oils, {hafuds,,castrol,duckhams, ect } brek doon v v fast, ask me hoo i no this. Butt, the Penrite stuff dont, its still good an thick whenst draining yer oil unlike most others that are like thin pish the Stuff im useing at the moment,has got 2,200 PPM ZDDP, farrr in excess of owt else on market. And this stuff stops v v clean for a long time too. generall pottering aboot, and some long motorway stuff at 4-5 K revs for a while, the P 20/60 is ideal the other is even better ive found. get a box of 4 of Kenny the oil man, and its as cheep as the normal stuff frae the useuall suspects. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products-categ.php?id_categ=1&id_brand=3 M

3 years since ye adjusted yer tappets, good lord, just cant grasp wot ive read, !!! I check mine every 2 month or so, teks nee time at all. Dooo this, as paranoid aboot cams / lifters wearing oot Roller rockers are v v quiet, so need to see if gaps inreasing gaps increasing, then I got probs,!!! M

Also depends on hoo olde yer engine is worn rings, lots of blow by at hier revs,/Load will have the oil black in nee time M

Both plugs mangets on em, filler plug always collects moer sheite than sump one Plenty of room, M

try a running test, will pin point either valves or rings much much better. read thru eer, ot google running test. Ive always used it Running Compression Tests - ALLDATA Support .https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=running+compression+test&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=AfaeV9yiN-rR8ge6yoHwAg#q=cranking+compression+vs+static+compression M

It all depends on yer oil too, olde oil will revert to a low grade so be thinner than new oil And, been giving it some stick, high revs, oil will be alott lott thinner, so use moer. IE, a 20 /50 will be thin wen hot, thicker wen hot,{supposedly } butt, if its olde, its broken doon, { lots of cheeper oils doo this } then it,ll be staying at a 20Weight, thus going past rings /guides. Change oil, get a good oil,like Penrite 20/60, Also, if yer breather valve is blocked, then it,ll mek pressure int engine, an force oil past rings,oot of seals. try above, then see wots wot with oil usage if it aint a new oil, or breather cure, then its a worn piston ring thingy Can,{ butt its most likely too late noo } go to a long incline, or use yer brakes, and use full throttle at 2-3000 rpms in top gear for as long as ye can hold it, and try this a good few times it will get some pressure beint the rings, maybe just enought to bed em,or blow oot any carbon build up in there worth a try, but likely too late noo. re diff pressureon cyl test, , this really aint a bigg thing IF, its repeatable after a few hundred miles reason, rings , contrary to pop belief, doo move aboot in the grooves some time for the better, some times for the wuss yours maybe at a bad point M

Yes on me own MK1 version John the discs too small, so did,nt really bite much. Which was aboot the same size, or slightly bigger than the MGF ones this why I said they be a few wee probs. both braking, and pedal travel I changed discs to 30 mm bigger,, thats 15 mm a side extra so had to move caliper ootwards, to get onto edge of disc, much better.braking noo. Butt, the bit aboot the long brake travel, OE rear pistionee,s are v small, 15 mm !!! compared to a 33 mm piston x2 this meks yer pedal move along way on initail press, sep if ye got a small MC fitted. { bigger MC will give less movement, Butt, also less power at the disc } spot on after this, bigger disc for braking power butt, leave it for a few mins,or next brake, and same agen, pedal goes along way doon. A wee add on mod to MC, and pedals solid all the time noo. would nae go back to drums, and as ye say, well balanced for my tastes too. M

a re faced rocker, will be better than a new one for the simple reason that the underlying metal has been work hardened. so really, any indentation thats happened, has happened. M

I think ye will find that the rears are no braking as weel as the drums. and, will probly fin ott that yer brake pedal is going along way doon, If so, there are fixes. for both. M

the wee cup weshers will be most likely doon to aboot 20-25 thou should be aboot 35-40 thou. and aboot 10 thou total of the side ones And nearly always, one cup is half thickness of other, some thing to doo wid round a boots. this all adds up to alotttt of play and does cause clonks ,esp on over run at low speeds in top gear. esp around idle speeds , quite annoying too. yours wont ev the fibre thrusts, butt,maybe if its been re built just re done 2 in last 2 days, both had only 1 fibre thrust there, other had disintigrated., this gives uneven loadings, BUTT, still keeps it tight on one side only so, only one side can give a clonk just re placing thees is simples, but involves a near total strip doon ye can, if yer got plenty of room to work, leave the rear bit int car, and just remove the front bit, wid the diff inside it { like a Dolomite ,or TR7 type } saves unbolting rear bolts, spring. As for oil glinting, its a sign of trouble brewing. somethings wearing, could be bearings, could be CW being scalloped away could even be bearings spinning in their races, could be nee thrusts too. get it oot, an check it owa. Ohh, an oil change evrey year is best, the amount off diffs rusted away inside cos of condensation in the oil which never gets burned off if no using it much, wears every thing away this diff was full of oil, but look wots happened. and this was the rust after it cleaned oot. butt, it had stood for 20 odd years. M

Stag diff has got a diff pin bearing to a saloon, or TR, its shallower in height, and also aboot 10-12 thou less in dia., so a TR/Sal will not fit casings are diff too, cant bung a Stag CW ina sal,or TR, they catch, not much, easily ground away. and back plate is diff, so too is the bolt pattern carrier is diff too. M

Yes, deffo wurth it, can drain oot all the olde built up crud. if done, then fill diff up wid a deisel oil or a engine drain oil, run carefull, no much load fora few miles, change oil, see sheite that comes oot. then fill 80 /140 oil then after amonth or so, change agen, its only a pint, oil will be black i will think, then re fill wid 80 / 140, and change yearly. M Butt, also try and put one in the fill plug too the fill plug magnet will catch moer sheite than the sump magnet, !!! if yer gonna drill yer own, then need heat resistant magnets, e bay sells em, quite cheep M

if its spinning, then either it, or the block are worn, or both. can re set it using loctie. but id want to mike it up fust to see if its it thats worn even a new,n, if slack, then deffo use loctite if its oot, then get a bloke wid a lathe to turn it doon a wee bit curve it towards middle it,ll let moer oil flow past it to frunt bearings. M

Well I'm very pleased to inform you that I do not get any knocking or any of the above negatives you have described; even when the engine has not been started for weeks. So I will be staying with my proven oil delivery & filtering system as all seems in order. ------------------------------- Totally impossarble facts. maybe your idea of oil delay is no same as mine. If you got no oil delay, {as in No delay} then there must be anti drain plugs in yer main oil gallery. and also in the pump tract to filter, If so, this will be a first, And, you must be the only Sixpot owner in History to have no oil light delay. must be a very well kept secret,, Even me 2 moderns have a delay if left fora week or so. Suzuki and a MX Err, seen this thread, bloke needs your set up, http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/1580-crank-bearings-knocking-on-start-up/ M

It happens, take it as said, ive looked into this alott, and got rid of all problems,oil light is off before engine starts. does yours,.!!! lots of cars have upside down filters, but the internals are different, stack pipes come to mind, as well as double drains. the bigger the filter, the moer oil flows oot, the longer it teks to fill up, simples biggest prob is the oil galley, it totally drains of oil as well as filter, so pump has to re charge all thee,s or is your engine not prone to this, its a first if it is. if yer no hearing a nok,after a long lay up, 2 days, 1 day with some filters.need to go to get yer lugs cleaned oot, ora hearing aid, as every T engine does it, Is it hard work to get a smaller filter, and fit it verticly, !!! M

2 reasons for this 1 filters dring back 2, the oil gallerys totally empty need a M MK1 tank,!! M

No, its not OK, and its not what it was designed for. there are filters on the market that are shallow enough to fit under neath,t adaptor they fit Reliants, and some others, no too sure, its a long long time since I had the OE filter and this filter was reccomended by the makers. there used to be an Angled adapter on the market yonks ago, only ever seen 2 they angled towards the oot side, so a bigger filter can fit on. wid tht set up, ye deffo need a Double anti drain filter,Mann comes to mind as most of the oil is running oot oft filter, therefore negating its effectivness. M

Aldi,s tek some beating they got vari speed, soft start, 3 year warranty, got a v easy adjustable guard, all of above, some of the v v expensive ones lack, got 5 of em, all got diff cutters/blades in em, saves changing 20£,last one had 2 sets spare brushes too, a decent lead lenth, so ye no ev to use an extension to get 3 foot away, !! had 2 for 6 years noo, and they get some stik. M

Maybe of some intrest to folk farther North, or esp Scotchlandshire its sell, this is a really great event, meb,e some may want to enter, just need a MSA clubmans ticket, 28£ and some race stuff, helmet,gloves, car can be near stock as it can be. Only 1 Spitty teks part, Paul Robinson, And 1 GT6, loadsa TRs, but they in their own class. as 2 years ago, we all in same class, Boness Hill Climb Revival M