Paul H

I've had a similar message for pc , months ago Paul

With that pedigree the selling price should exceed the estimates

Hi Richard - Many thanks for the pics - I now understand the route to take Best regards Paul

With the petrol tank out and the rear brackets for the telescopic dampers in place the space between the boot floor and the rear out riggers is now currently approx 5 mm so i can feel the 2 outrigger nut recesses and in turn match up where i have to drill the boot floor . Im assuming the outriggers have a captive nut ? What size bolt do I need to bolt through the boot floor ? The boot floor has never been drilled though the recesses in the pic of the nearside boot floor more or less line up with the nut recesses in the out rigger - I will probably have to drill a larger hole in the boot floor then fill with a large washer Really appreciate the help so far Best regards Paul

HI Richard , thanks very much for the pics, just what I needed.

Hi Richard , many thanks for your input. Plenty of jobs being done including new shock absorbers so whenever is convenient . If I could ask one further favour ? The rear outriggers are currently not bolted to the chassis , so need to do this. The easiest way is to drill through the boot floor ( near the rear light cluster) then through the chassis with the fixing nut on the underside of the chassis . There are 2 fixing points and looking for a pic of the bolt positions when looking in the boot , the easiest one with access being the offside. Best regards Paul

Hi Richard - the petrol pipe does run along the main chassis along side the brake pipe - plan to keep this line then up and over the rear drive following contours of body shell - Does the pipe go behind or in front of the rear damper support - see pic . I hope ive explained this ok Best regards Paul

The tank has a lot of crap so needs cleaning and sealing as there is rust evident plus the neck pipe doesn't have a rubber olive , the brass olive is free running so not doing anything . I think there is a flexi tube missing at the bottom of the pipe for the reserve feature though probably a good thing as the debris would have been sucked up . Also have to reroute the pipe as it's currently in the wrong place and preventing me adding the new spring hanger conversion plate. Again any advice welcome Best regards Paul

Thanks Pete , the tank is out !!!! The secret is to lift the rear end (drain plug ) so the plug is inside the boot . After that it's plain sailing Cheers Paul

Thanks Pete. Im currently at the giving up stage though will now perservere and have another go best regards Paul

Quick question. Can the tank be removed without removing th drain plug . I think I know the answer but can't get the drain plug out . Any guidance welcomed Regards Paul

Hi Andrew , just completing the same polybush change on the rear on my vitesse rotoflex The only section with an outer metal bush was the transverse Spring . This bush can be pushed out with a long 19mm socket using a large vice . All the other bushes were removed without much difficulty using suitable sized sockets together with the vice . My vice being a record with a large throat . Adding the replacement polybushes was easier than I thought it would be using soapy water , simply force in the polybush then the metal bush . Forgot to add , I didn't do the diff bushes as they had already been done so don't know the makeup Hope this helps Paul

This is a copy of TSSC Courier 179 (May 1995) - hope I havent broken any copy-write rules Paul 179 - May 1995.pdf

Hi Richard , many thanks for the pics , just emptying the tank and will be removing then will reroute existing piping - Removing the tank will allow the rear outriggers to be bolted to the boot floor . Currently the rear tub is hanging in the air . I think this explains the creaks when cornering !!! All the best Paul

Thanks for input , out of interest what would a professional respray cost , as this will get the DIY budget approved by the Missus , should be a no brainer with the 2 prices !! Paul

Thanks Clive - will start looking at compressors Best regards

Hi , Newbie question . At some stage need to respray my Vitesse Saloon , The Club sells aerosols , are these a practical solution to achieving a reasonable finish ? To cost the exercise roughly how may cans would be needed to undercoat & top coat . Any input welcomed Regards Paul

Hi Pete , would like to attend the masterclass on 22nd Oct if that's ok ?Best regards Paul

Hi , I have changed UJ's & Rotoflex , and started reassembly The bearing carrier came off easy enough but is proving more difficult to go back - A buddy has a press which I can use , Before the pressure is applied does this pic look ok in that its in the correct place Thanks in advance Paul

Heres a tip to save you ruining your polyprop replacement bush Remove the steel outer sleeve of the original Metalistic bush in the spring eye - I had removed the original rubber bush not realising the outer sleeve should come out too - 1 hr later I had persuaded the polyprop bush to go in and pushing in the internal metal sleeve the poly prop bush squeezed out the other end !!! A quick call to Canleys and I realized the sleeve should be removed prior to inserting the poly bush Apparently this is a common issue for newbies Paul

Hi Richard - thanks for info . The fuel tank has to come out so I can bolt the the out riggers to the body - currently the rear tub is floating !! - I will then reroute the fuel pipe - any photos at a later date would be appreciated Best regards Paul

Is this fuel pipe layout correct ?, pic attached . If so will have to re reroute as converting to vertical dampers and with the current layout the rear bracket will foul the pipework Any info appreciated

Hi Pete , thanks for your info , the rear end is currently floating so will drill though off side floor, pack the space and bolt through to the underside of the rigger . The nearside will also be done the same though pretty sure the tank will have to come out first . Ive checked and the bolts either side of the diff are in place . Ive owned the Vitesse for 9 months now and the paperwork suggests the rebuild was in 2012 so will have to check all the other chassis bolts are in place . You are correct in that the Vitesse has Body Tub Spread , the passenger door is very proud at the base ( door handle side ) and the driver's door is proud all the way hinge side and slightly proud at the base (door handle side ) + the gaps on both doors would benefit from adjustment. Currently I want to make the Vitesse mechanically reliable , then will look at rectifying the body tub spread - are there any articles on line I can start researching ??? I now possess the Workshop Manual - recent Fleabay purchase at £21.50 delivered At least I know why the back end was creaking on bends with the odd bang & crash over bumps Adding the chassis bolts , new rotoflexes , UJ;s which were shot + polybushes & vertical shockers should improve the ride . The bearings had some initial play though on dismantling the end bolt came off with no effort so torquing up to 100 lb / ft will hopefully cure the play . Best regards Paul

This is the pic of the boot area , is this where the bolts should go ? Regards Paul

Just purchased the rear bracket conversion kit from the Club Shop which converts from side arm dampers to GAZ shock absorbers. The instructions advise loosening some chassis bolts to allow room for the rear brackets - Talking to Garth this might not be easy so some "fettling" might be in order to accommodate the rear brackets. Any advice for fitting these brackets would be appreciated According to the Workshop Manual there are 2 bolts from the rear tub to the rear outriggers . I dont have these bolts or any obvious holes in the body tub for the bolts, there is a small gap between the body tub and the outriggers and looking feeling around with a bent nail cant find the holes in the out rigger for them . Should the bolts be there ? Ive only checked the offside as the nearside has a petrol tank in the way Any input welcomed regards Paul