Paul H

Lever arm dampers are available from Canleys - Rimmers are trying to sell you a conversion which adds a top strut to covert to vertical dampers . The theory is great in practice difficult to fit as the added strut goes between the body and the chassis . To achieve this the chassis bolts needs to be loosened in the area and the strut added - If the body and chassis havent been parted for some time the bolts are rusted and wont come out - Ive added the struts so can add photos if you like - The club sells the conversion kit - the cheapest option being replacement lever arm dampers regards Paul

Hi Dean , adding photos is easy enough, providing you know where your photos are located on your computer - ive added a couple of screen shots to assist in loading photos to posts Regards Paul

Hi Pete , is there an idiots guide how to introduce relays into existing lighting wiring regards Paul

Hi Richard - Ive added the Crystal headlight replacements to my birthday list for my vitesse ! One ? currently the 2 outers are halogen and the 2 inners are sealed beam - with the crystal upgrade will the current wiring be ok or will a relay be required ? best regards Paul

Thanks for advice Pete - just finished fitting the passenger side which was very difficult. I used Gary's advice and warmed the gaitor in hot water , then used a large socket to stretch the gaitor . This allowed the gaitor with some force to start moving across the knuckle joint . Finally used an electric heat gun very very carefully to warm the area . The gaitor then went over the knuckle joint . Looking at the drivers side this looks much easier - I purchased QH Gaitors Hope this helps somebody else Paul

I bought the Canleys felt ones - didnt fit , once you put pressure on them the metal folds - in the end retained old ones Paul

Hi Dean , you need a hub press like the pic . . I have one, where do you live ? Paul

Hi, preparing for MOT and noticed the steering rack gators are starting to perish - Just ordered some QH replacements . What grease do I use under the gators and secondly the grease for the grease nipple for the rack and pinion body assembly Thanks in advance Paul

From the accounts I think the shop just about broke even though to be a serious player the online shop software needed ditching and starting again . On line shop software has moved on leaps and bounds in the past few years and it wouldnt be too expensive to start again and maintenance and updating has been simplified so managing a modern day online shop is affordable . Overall my reading was that the club made an overall profit last year compared the big loss the previous year Garth's experience will be missed, and its disappointing that there hasnt been an official announcement . Paul

Hi just fitting new plastic bush kit to front trunnions - are these a dry fit or do i need lithium grease in the tube Any input appreciated Paul

Just checked the other trunnion and no oil so boiled it for 30 mins in a degreasing solution , wire brush and soldering the whole area this time Paul

Castrol EP90 is GL4 so safe to use Paul

Hi Stu - got the teashirt on this one even made a dedicated spanner, the spanner thickness has been ground down so fits the manifold nuts easier + the obligatory towel underneath to catch the washers - 30 mins to take off , and put back Paul

Hi John - I used the penny as it worked well as a heat sink , though will try filling the other direct with solder Paul

Opted for 1 penny approach plus borrowed the wife's Brulee gas gun - got to buy some more gas before she finds out ive used it I purchased the Trunnions a year ago from a reputable source at a premium price, not sure what I need to do to get products which last Just testing the trunnions to make sure they dont leak again Again thanks for all the advice Paul NB will i go to prison for disfiguring the queen's coinage

Put in new Trunnions last year - one of them is leaking already - looks like shoddy manufacturing - Can I solder or araldite - Looks like the trunnion will have to come off to work on it ie remove oil etc Any assistance welcomed , also noticed the next job , the bushes that came fitted to the new front dampers have started to break up Hey ho Paul

Hi I recently changed the water pipe and purchased a stainless version from canleys. The fitting was fine though the stainless pipe was too big to take the olive. Filing the first inch to accept the olive went ok and no leaks . I don't think the olive was included Hope this helps

Advice & best practice please Just changing Water Pump Housing & Thermostat Housing due to corrosion - The pic shows the corrosion on the thermostat housing , the water pump housing is not as bad but getting too thin in places for my liking - I have replacement gaskets and whats the best practice , gaskets with or without jointing compound ? Thanks in advance Paul

Hi Richard thanks for links , H1 Bulbs cost between £1.50 & £15 each . Which ones do you use Thanks again for valuable advice Paul

Hi Where did you purchase your crystal headlights from as my Vitesse has the existing sealed beams and looking to convert Paul

Thanks Pete , WBL281H fired up at last , a bit uncertain but 30 mins later started again which bodes well - so will get the strobe when shes outside in a couple of weeks . Im using the new fuel pump though totally unimpressed with quality . The sealing rubber ring has expanded by 20% already and is a pig to put back without it getting trapped . When I get a chance I will be reburbing the old AC unit and putting this back. The forward CDSE carb is still leaking by the choke assembly despite cleaning and reassembling with a new gasket yesterday - Ive attached a pic to show where its leaking - Its leaked since day 1 when purchased from Turner Carbs , returned for correction with no change - With start up with choke the leak is evident with fuel on a rag when wiped over . With the engine hot the leak is a minor weep and hardly noticeable - The pic shows the metal faces are dirty , could I clean this up with a fine grade of wet n dry or soak in fuel , acetone Again any advice welcomed and at last some progress Paul

Hi Doug and Pete . Thanks for advice , disconnected fuel pipe by carbs no fuel spurt when turning over. So removed pipe prior to pump , added a section of clear plastic pipe and sucked fuel eventually came through , plus loads of air bubbles so guess their was an airlock somewhere , reconnected and turned engine and petrol came out of the pipe by the carb and all over the engine , I had forgotten the jam jar So now I have fuel and spark, won't fire up at the minute so need to make sure timing is roughly right , will timing light work just on the starter ???? Then check carbs , float chamber, needle valves . I think it's likely to be timing as squirted carb cleaner direct in with no effect Thanks for advice - appreciated Paul

UPDATE . Followed all the tests , advice above and no spark . The coil is ok so logically the accuspark has failed . One possible explanation is that the gap had been closed when I repaired the earth plug . The accuspark hologram logo has changed colour at the edges indicating heat. I can't say this for definite as took the dizzy apart several times I purchased an accuspark distributor kit at stonleigh which included new Delco 6 distributor with electronic ignition, coil, leads & plugs . Fitted this today and I have spark so close to firing up . I have replaced the fuel pump which is smaller than the original so guess this is a modern aftermarket model. I have fuel in the pump but despite operating the petrol pump lever I can't get the fuel to the carbs , so guess there is an airlock some where . What's the best approach ? NB The fuel tank has been refurbished and new rubber r9 tubing replacing the original perished pipe. There is fuel in the tank and its visible at the filter I've added in the boot area . Just above the fuel filter I've added an manual switch which will act a increased security or making the fuel filter change easier Paul

Hi I have a bearing removal kit see pic , you can borrow if you want if you think its suitable . It has a hydraulic ram rated at 6mt We live in Pakenham just outside Bury st Edmunds - Ive only used it on small jobs so far and its been very good Regards Paul

Hi Dave thanks, when I get round to selling them at least I know the market for them Paul