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Everything posted by ahebron
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New special tool For this https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/11411-vitesseherald-boot-lid-catching/ The foam is stuck to the 3x2 with double sided tape and gets pressed into the drip channel for the bootlid keeping the bits in place while I operated the 4 ton ram
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Thats the reason I removed the underfelt from the carpets in my Vitesse saloon. I have used marine sound deadening through out the car
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I dont mean to mock your issue but when I first turned the Isuzu starter on my Vitesse 6 I thought I had lost compression on all cylinders it spun that fast. I did renew all battery cables and ran a new (35mm?) neutral to the block. Also still using the original starter relay in conjunction with the Isuzu one.
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There are professional heatshrink crimps that I use a sparkie. You crimp the connector then using a hotair gun shrink the heatshrink over the joint, the heatshrink has glue that melts and seals the joint and any damage from the crimping tool. These are mains rated and compliant. The low temp solder shrink joints are just that, low temp which I am not convinced joins the cable properly
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KeviR beat me to it Those connectors should be avoided at all costs. Either crimp or solder connections If using those horrid coloured insulated crimps please get the proper tool to crimp them, dont use sidecutters or pliers.
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Now you have baited us with the request please tell what are you building/rebuilding.
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I use a similar device called a salas glass jar as i do not want the bag to puncture. Fill the US cleaner with warm water and leave on for a day or 2
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Thats a cunning idea. I use a piece of copper busbar that is a sod to hold in place.
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Thanks for the tips/comments. Somewhere on this site are photos of my tub tugging rig. Yes I will brace the B pillars top and bottom. And of course I will take photos no matter what the result.
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The boot lid on my Vitesse 6 just catches the trim strip on the rh tail light. I recall someone commenting in the past that that this is a side effect of compensating for tub spread and pulling in the B post tops. Anyway no matter how it is caused I need to rectify it before I carry on. I propose to use my 4 ton hydraulic ram between two pieces of 5x5 timber between the taillight fins, they will have a piece of dense foam between the timber and the body to offer some protection. Does this seem to be a sane idea or does anyone have experience with a better way of doing this. I pulled in my tub spread using the hydraulic ram one side at a time. Thanks Adrian
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Thanks for that Colin, they are most likely from Herald Estate. Your photo proves it Now to find an Estate owner who I can give these to, not that many left in NZ.
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Sorry johny but I have no idea what you are referring to I have these type battery post connectors, cables are compression crimped into lugs then bolted on using the wingnuts, makes disconnection quick and easy
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Remote bleed hose for clutch slave cylinder
ahebron replied to haggis's topic in Gearbox & Overdrive
Damn, I knew it but JohnD beat me to it by 9 hours saying its the front plate from a saloon, I suppose that is the problem being on the other side of the world.😀 -
Thanks Colin. The photo of 2 strips are probably from a Herald Wagon but the 3 strips have me flummoxed
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In this part of the world it is also a Ginger Beer https://www.bundaberg.com/brew/ginger-beer/
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Going through my tube of large shiny Vitesse parts today I came across these bits. I was sorting out the trim for the rear of the Vitesse roof with the aim of fitting a high stop brake light into the centre strip. I have no idea what they are from apart from very likely a Triumph. I have owned Mk1 2.5PI Estate, dismantled several Herald saloon, Vitesse Saloons and a Herald Estate. As the clips for fitting the side roof trim are N/A I pout them in a glass jar filled with evapo-rust and then put that in the ultrasonic cleaner which is filled with tap water, I will leave it running overnight. I noticed the US cleaner was running at half power and on investigation found the transducer had dropped a wire which I resoldered and it is back and running full output.
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At last a proper use for the dental tools of satan.
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Looks like John Kipping has replied. I recently heard of a local club member who is building a replica of the Toledo that ran in the Benson and Hedges 500 at Pukekohe in 72 or 73. I have sent the PH site page to a fellow Triumph club member who will probably pass it on to the above
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I cut some rust out of a Mitsubishi Mirage below the windscreen and it had a primer/dip line below which it didnt rust but above it was a free for all. Obviously they didnt expect the tops of the car to rust
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1966 1600/6 Vitesse - Anti Burst Hook x 1
ahebron replied to martyn wright's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
I bought some from Spitbits a couple of years ago -
Autocult Model Triumph GT6 C-BFMS Landracer GB/USA 1971/2020
ahebron replied to Chris Longhurst's topic in General
Hi Chris The link in your post sends me back to my email account. -
John, PM sent
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Here is the article for all to enjoy. John I am tracking down Grahams contact detail for you but I will not put that up on the public facing forum. I will PM you with that once I receive it. FYI Pukekohe race track which is mentioned in the article ran its final race early this year. It is being returned to horse racing I believe. And sorry about the upside down page, it didnt leave me in that state🙃 Triumph Vitesse Racing Car_20230420_0001.pdf