ahebron

FAG I will swap tyres front to rear first but yes that is an option

I would be very careful about putting sunblock on car parts. It can react with certain plastics and we have all seen kids handprints on car paint after they put sunblock on.

I do like it, it has a touch of Gilbern. Pete could be correct if the following is true https://z-upload.facebook.com/classicandrecreationsportscars/posts/1936506969860078 Scorpion Car Company Chris Humberstone's first car design was the 1965 Scorpion Sovereign available in three models: 616M & 616MS with a 4-cyl Triumph 1596cc engine and the 620M 6-cyl-1998cc Vitesse engine with bodywork by Williams & Pritchard. Bond cars commissioned designer Trevor Fiore to restyle the Scorpion by making it into a fastback. Bond then produced it as the Bond Equipe 2 litre without Humberstone's consent, who successfully sued Bond. http://slatford.co.uk/Car Pictures Pages/Scorpion.htm

Yesterday I replaced the left front wheel bearing on my VW Amarok due to noise when cornering to the right, loading the left side of the car. Test drove it and noise still there😰 I will swap rear to front tyres when it stops raining next week to see if that changes the noise. At least a wheel bearing kit was cheaper than a new tyre and my time is free.

I stand corrected. Nick are you referring to a similar H frame as the Spitfire /GT6

Cant recommend a supplier as I am a wee bit away from you but I would go with the ratchet type that pull in and lift the wheel. I have three different sets of wheel dolly 1st I made myself out of 1" galv pipe into box section tees making a square with castors on each corner, these were used on a car that the tyres didnt matter. 2nd is a set of 4 ratchet type that are great as you do not need to raise the car to fit them, these live under my Vitesse 6 with the scissor hoist. 3rd set are pressed steel curved that the wheel sits but you need to jack the car up to use them and the castors catch on stuff on the floor. So my recommendations are go for whatever dolly suits you but make sure the castors are free running and big enough to not jam on shrapnel that gets on your garage floor.

Are you sure they are wobbling and not out of balance?

And to add to this topic on some replacement lamps (mine are Lucas) the locating tabs do not line up correctly with the recesses in the mounting rings. I have posted about this before and to fix this I 3D printed an alignment tool

Never ever pressure wash an engine, it can lead to all sorts of issues especially with modern vehicles. As Pete says a good spray cleaner then wash with water. Modern engines tend to have places that water can pool and stay so I go over with a low pressure air line to blow the water out that doesnt go with running the engine.

Probably not an issue with our cars but the ratio of distance to size of temp reading circle can be an issue. I found the more expensive ones have a narrower beam therefore more precise when used at a distance.

This should give you the info on the Vitesse chassis. https://pearl.plymouth.ac.uk/bitstream/handle/10026.1/17331/TPSS-2021-Vol14n1_246-285Jones.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y I think the most practical fix is a t shirt plate similar to the TR6 one in front of the diff on the underside of the chassis

It doesn't matter what bulbs you have if you are not getting the correct voltage then you are wasting money. As Paul H stated he has fitted relays which with a decent sized feed cable from the battery/alternator will improve your lights output. 1 relay, 2 relays or 4 relays it is your call how easy or complicated you want to make it Also make are the earth cables are up to the job,(I make it the same size as the battery/alternator feed) do not rely on using the bonnet as a return path as it can have many corroded points of contact with the rest of the car. Interestingly the side light/indicators on the Vitesse/Herald rely on the bonnet to earth the lamp. I welded a stud to the back of the lamps on my Vitesse and have run a cable to earth them.

Its a shame that many sellers sell the wrong seal for these cars. They think a generic seal will do the job but as we all know it doesnt.

Hi Robin I might not be reading this correctly but you do not use seals with 'bubbles' on the small chassis Triumphs. The seal should be more like a crooked finger. Many on here will tell you to get them from but IIRC it is COH Baines. The bubble seal will not allow the door to close correctly and could be the source of your problem. I am happy to be corrected if I am wrong. Adrian

Agree with Josef. A hot air gun and a gentle scraper will do the trick, hopefully.

Hi johny They are lead but as I said the mag wheel weights are a ferrous material. This bucket of weights is old ones taken off wheels so there is very good chance the non ferrous ones are lead. It is just for knocking on and off spinner ears on wire wheels so might only get used once a year hopefully.

Today I made three lead hammers but only ended up with two finished ones. After a bit of research I came to the conclusion that a lead hammer is the best thing for fitting centre spinners on vintage car wire wheels. A bit more research and they cannot be bought in NZ. Most likely something to do with them being lead. A mechanic friend donated his box of old wheel weights and as it for my parents car they picked up a stainless steel pot from an op shop and a spoon with holes in for cleaning the dross off the lead. My dad had a bit of a moment when the hose would not connect between the gas cooker and bottle but it turned out to be left hand thread. Started by filling the pot with all the dirty wheel weights and setting the camping stove to high and watch some of the weights start to melt, it turns out not all wheel weights are lead. The stick on mag wheel ones are a ferrous metal that like the magnet so easy to lift out of the pot. This halved my mass of weights My first mould was an tomato sauce refill tin of about 550ml capacity. I hole punched a 25mm hole in the side about midway up. The handle is a 300mm x 25mm length of galv pipe that roller doors spin on which I plugged about 50mm in and I cross drill 2 x 8mm holes so the lead would pour through to help the handle stay in place. This hammer looked impressive but at 6kg was deemed to heavy but a good first attempt. It was melted down A ginger spice tin and Colmans Mustard tin (rectangle) were the next 2 moulds and these had the same handle treatment with one using the 6kg hammer handle. These two came out at nearly 3kg each so everyone should be happy. I am coating the lead hammer with rustoloeum leak paint that provides a rubber type coating. i am happy with the results and while this method is sacrificial for the moulds but I cannot see myself making anymore of these. When working with the lead I had a full face 3m mask that I bought when I was grinding lead out of a car body prior to welding panels, I had cotton overalls and welding gloves when pouring. The garage door was open for a through draft and I had a fan on full.

I did have the advantage of removing the body from the chassis so it made work relatively quick and easy. Though picking the wires that fly off from the the wire wheels out of everything that wasn't covered wasn't quick nor easy.

That reminds me of secondary school science and connecting the rubber hoses for the bunsen burners to the water taps for the sinks.

Unfortunately I have to Zoom meetings for work, 5 hours is the longest so far. But you only need one person with Zoom then others just join in following the link sent out to them by the host. I am never a host.

I was advised and used a zinc phosphate primer, then then a protection paint followed by rattlecan red on the Vitesse 6. This was after I stripped it back after I saw the professionally applied coating flaking off.

Asking about underbody protection is like asking what oil or what tyres to use so tread carefully. But a bit of advise I have is if you clean the underside back to bare metal with a wire wheel or suchlike then go over it all by hand with a 60 grit scourer. The wheels will remove the paint etc but then will polish the metal, the 60 grit will give a surface that will hold the particular product you are applying a lot better than the wire wheeled one.

First off would be to drill the end of the cracks to stop them spreading. Has it been tweaked for tub spread in the past? I cracked my saloon body where the top deck meets the rear guard rh after tweaking

Funny that. Here in NZ we have BOC (formerly NZIG) and they had the market for many years. They charged bottle owners a small fortunefor refills then deemed allprivately owned bottles dangerous and unable to be refilled forcing owners to rent from them. Competition came in and amazingly the competition said we were able to keep our bottles as long as they got tested every 10 years and they can fill them as well. I can get replacement oxy/acetylene, tig and mig 7 days a week from the local Bunnings. It took BOC many years of customers walking away to realise what was going on and now they do bottle swap deal but I am not going back. I buy there welders and plasma cutter but not gas anymore.

I fitted the Isuzu starter motor to my Vitesse 6 and the first time i spun the motor with it I thought I had lost compression on all cylinders. I had to do a compression test to check and nothing wrong with the compressions. It is that good and was very well priced. https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm