ahebron

First off would be to drill the end of the cracks to stop them spreading. Has it been tweaked for tub spread in the past? I cracked my saloon body where the top deck meets the rear guard rh after tweaking

Funny that. Here in NZ we have BOC (formerly NZIG) and they had the market for many years. They charged bottle owners a small fortunefor refills then deemed allprivately owned bottles dangerous and unable to be refilled forcing owners to rent from them. Competition came in and amazingly the competition said we were able to keep our bottles as long as they got tested every 10 years and they can fill them as well. I can get replacement oxy/acetylene, tig and mig 7 days a week from the local Bunnings. It took BOC many years of customers walking away to realise what was going on and now they do bottle swap deal but I am not going back. I buy there welders and plasma cutter but not gas anymore.

I fitted the Isuzu starter motor to my Vitesse 6 and the first time i spun the motor with it I thought I had lost compression on all cylinders. I had to do a compression test to check and nothing wrong with the compressions. It is that good and was very well priced. https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm

Not uncommon for vehicle wranglers on film sets to put period looking plates on cars that they dont belong on. Or DVLA has it wrong Or the car is a ring in.

Damnit I have Strange Fruit in my head again after seeing this thread title. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DGY9HvChXk

Rhynas BMW F650GS motorbike stood unridden for nearly 2 years. When I tried to start it it wouldnt. The fuel filler neck looked it had started to corrode so I removed it and found it was a brown fuel residue that took a day in the US cleaner to loosen it enough to remove the residue. The fuel pump was covered inside and out with the same looking stuff and after I cleaned out the tank and fitted a new pumpit ran fine. In the past I fitted an extra fuel filter so that is ok. I put the gummed up pump in the US cleaner for a day and it cleaned itself up nicely, must test it one day

I think I have mentioned before on here to never rely on the body/chassis as a return path for electrics on vehicles. I always try run a neutral cable to everything that needs it and bond the body or chassis. I welded studs on the back of the front indicator sidelights on the Vitesse when I found it uses the bonnet as its return. Far to many variables in our cars lives will have gone on. I even saw this on a friends 2014 Nissan pickup, the rear power outlet he fitted in the tray stopped working but gave a 12 volt reading on a meter, turns out the neutral was just to the tray and it is rubber mounted with a nice steel bolt clamping the chassis to the body. As he lives on a boat in a marina and the pickup parks on the hard it had a regular salt treatment which had corroded the mounting bolts enough so they would not allow an electrical load to pass through them. My Vitesse 6 battery neutral goes to the bulkhead lh nut side then to a starter motor bolt on the gearbox

I went to a haberdashery (?) shop and bought plastic green 'emeralds' these are faceted and have a flat back with a silver backing. Scrape the backing off and superglue it to threaded bit that I had cleaned up and goes into the dash. Works a treat and looks bling-ish

Had a similar experince fitting Amal Conventric carbs to a vintage car, the oe SUs seemed to have gone porous not surprising at nearly 90 years old. We jumped in all guns blazing and flooded the carbs even with the pump dialled back to 2 psi. Then it was fit an SU float bowl between the carbs but that didnt work it kept running out of fuel. Forgot the Amals had there own floats. Next it was remove the Amal floats and set the float height of the SU bowl at the same as the Amals, still didnt work under load. Played with the jetting of the Amal but again under load no luck. In the end it was to treat it like a motorbike and gravity feed the carbs and revert everything back to standard. This was done by building a header tank that used a SU float to set it level and gravity feed the carbs from the bottom of the tank. Tank is supported on the radiator brace rod and the bulkhead support so easily removable to revert the car back to normal SUs Car runs a treat

Hi Graham welcome to the forum. Many of us use the more common Herald body parts (dont tell the Herald guys). By this I mean complete sections. My Mk2 Convertible is in similar if not worse condition but Heralds a getting thin on the ground in NZ. Adrian

It is a clever alternative.

Looking at that link Badwolf posted a Cattle Unit is also called an Animal Unit or AU AU is used as the internet code for Australia. It is also a model of Ford Falcon built in Melbourne Australia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Falcon_(AU)#:~:text=The Ford Falcon (AU) is,the luxury-oriented model range. Down the road in Port Melbourne was where the Australians assembled Triumphs at the Fishermans Bend plant https://pocketozmelbourne.com.au/lost-fishermans-ami.html AU is also the symbol for gold which has very little to do with any of my Triumphs

My Vitesse 6 gearbox leaks happily on the level no need for this fangled jacking. Diff did the same till I replaced the incorrectly fitted nose seal. I am worried as the engine doesnt leak oil and sounds far too quiet.😟😉

Except when you snore like a Triumph bike with straight pipes get up to pee, drink a large glass of water because your throat is dry and sore, get up to pee drink a large glass of water because your throat is dry and sore, get up........................

In have a 13/60 bulkhead (NZ assembled) on my Vit 6 and there was a hole for the cable. IIRC it is the same or close to NMs photo

Photos of arrows at the top of Lucas branded headlights, this is the H4 lens And yes it also has the dip side pointing arrow.

And here was me thinking they where to allow more air to access the rear carb after the front one sucks all the air that comes in the font tubes.

Shame we dont have a jealous or envious emoji

This is a link to my latest Triumph based 3D print. I have attached the file here for others to copy if they wish, no guarantee it will work for you. If you want to print one for a 7 inch headlight then just scale it up in you slicer software Headlight aligner v2.stl

My solution

Headlight recess alignment tool. The new Lucas headlight lens locating legs do not line up with the recesses in the mounting rings on my Vitesse 6. I decided I need to know where vertical was on the mounting rings as the lens has an arrow pointing up which I assume is vertical. As it is two circles one bigger than the other I thought about cutting it out of mdf or ply but do not have a holesaw the right size and can never cut good circles with a jigsaw. I decided to 3D print it and designed it on Fusion 360 and after several false starts printed this with PLA. The PETG has absorbed moisture so wasnt laying down well. I added a horizontal surface for a level/bevelbox and 4 notches 90 degrees apart starting at the top A bit of filing down the inner circle diameter and it is a snug in 3 out of 4 headlight rings, the 4th seems to be a slightly wider lip. Take a reference level from the top of the bonnet across the peaks, set the bevel box to zero and this will give me my reference top and bottom marks on the ring. Headlight aligner v2.stl Headlight aligner v2.stl

I am checking the headlights for level (horizontal vertical not intensity) The lenses have a wee arrow that points to the top, if I pass a line vertically down the glass should this be a vertical reference that I could use with a spirit level or such like? Thanks Adrian

Thanks for the replies. Dont have the option of car specific for these headlights in NZ.

Damn sorry about the double post. Mods feel free to delete this one

Anyone else experience issues with fitting semi sealed Lucas H4 and H1 headlights to their Vitesse? I am having issues with the headlight mounting tabs lining up with the cutouts in the mounting rings. Nothing a Dremel wont fix but interested if others have had this problem.