Colin Lindsay

That's all Delco Remy stuff; the cap code 54420852 confirms; you can also see the catches for the cap which differ from Lucas. Lucas caps have a sprung centre terminal and a flat rotor arm; Delco have a flat terminal and a sprung rotor as in your pics. The original will have been a Delco D204.

It's a lovely vegetably smell, and often green in colour. Not always tho. However going by the original post - if the tin was empty then whatever is in it isn't contaminated or mixed, so find the rest of the 20/50 and compare the two ie colour and smell. If there's none left, what did it originally come out of?

No, I had to check and yes it's still 2019 so we haven't missed anything.

Where's my dinner?

That seal is fitted back to front / upside down... it looks like the wrong profile, strangely like a glass runner channel profile, or else it's been fitted around the rail retainer strip rather than the square profile fitted into it... what does the other side look like? Is there a groove for the seam that runs on top of the windscreen surround? I've managed to find both a seal strip and a rubber seal and made up a mockup so that you can see the way they fit it's not fully seated but should illustrate the idea.

I didn't win last night but had a great time watching the bids fly up. It was at £51 until four minutes, then £56, and in the last minute shot up dramatically to finish at £92. Lot of last minute snipers or bid programmes, presumably.

My sprayer (still delayed due to covid) told me a few months back to spray the bare metal parts of the Herald in Lead Oxide. I had them in grey primer but if that's what he wants, fine. Front valence, rear valence and grille surround all blasted and primed in Lead Oxide. "I never said that" he told me last week. "I said Bondaprimer." I may be half deaf but I'm not that bad. I'll just have to rub it down well and reprime, but Bondaprimer seems to be the recommended.

Your best option is probably primer. Anything else will be difficult to clean off before painting and a lot of extra effort; use a good primer and when it comes to rubbing down again before the proper paintjob it won't require cleaning out of every crack and crevice. I sandblast a lot of parts when I'm bored and these just get a coat of good anti-rust primer; all I do before the final painting, if it needs it, is to rub it down or key it before adding additional coats.

That exploded diagram appears to show the felt facing away from the upright and towards the hub, when in fact it's towards the upright ie metal side is pressed into the hub with the felt facing out of the hub as Pete has said. I like the way Canleys describe it: NCA in decent quality... which is very true. If you need good ones, look for Payen NA988 or Unipart GHS110, but be careful - many cheap ones are listed as 'equivalent to' and are the same as the rubbish varieties.

That's like asking: do you think I could run a marathon? It all depends on your own physiological makeup and how much you value your back...! I've manoeuvred a 6-cylinder block along planks of wood, and pushed it up into the boot of a car the same way - just two lengths of d-rail fencing spaced to spread the load. Four cylinder I could stick under one arm... well, almost, but I can still carry it easily enough, but a six as Aidan says is heavier and more awkward to balance for one person.

Much bigger speakers than mine, which I think are five inch. I bought these ready-fitted to a nice set of door cards, with elastic pockets, at Stafford a few years back. For pods, I'll just use these old TR7 pods which are half-cups; I was more worried about water coming down than up. By the time it gets that high I'll be worried about more than the speakers.

These days I'm much more sober... or is it boring? If it's something I would like, but don't really need, I put a bid on, if I win I win, if not well it went over my price. Of course at present I'm watching some recording equipment, and haven't yet bid... so I suppose I should be honest and say: there are somethings I want more than I need, so am prepared to gamble just a little bit. First thing I do is check the new price, which lets me know how mad other bidders are becoming, and tells me when the item is no longer a bargain.

eBay is a world unlike any other, and common sense does not apply. I regularly see used items sell for more than the brand new price - do bidders get carried away or do they just not check first?

Interesting! I have this ahead of me, when I get to the trim / ICE stage... incidentally, why the two courtesy light switches?

Lidl are usually Ultimate Speed; never heard of that brand anywhere else so it's probably their own commissioned items. As for the Aldi version, their technology is a bit... offputting...

Isn't that just for Racing / Motorsport? I know they'll be heavier and therefore safer than for roadgoing vehicles, but, for a normal roadgoing car, the others are sufficient?

Very little, until you buy one and the seller charges postage. THEN it vastly increases in weight. I can carry stripped-down Herald blocks about happily enough, but the crank is an enormous part of the weight and makes a huge difference.

Often ( as in the photo above) they also have a ledge to clamp to; I've seen quite a few batteries using the top edge and not the designated area for the clamp, which, if it's rounded, won't give proper grip. My Gt6 battery can be clamped in both but as the guys here have said the top position is too close to the terminals. Sometimes it needs longer hooks but still works.

You'll have to clear the gap between door and bulkhead, and make sure that everytime the door closes the wires aren't severed! You can run them along the door checkstrap but make sure they're not going to be sliced, otherwise the other solution is to have a loop of cable on a spring that stretches as the door opens but tightens again, out of harm's way, as it closes. I'll have the same problem on my 1200 when I get that far, but I've also cheated by putting large speakers in the footwell, into the trim pads on either side so the door speakers may end up as dummies. I'll see, when I get there...

They normally just fill up with engine oil as the engine runs, so no grease.

Yes. I did. Actually there were quite a few of them; I ended up with one back around 2002 which was originally registered WYO 626H, a 13/60 convertible - they used them until they fell apart, and really destroyed them during filming. The model changes during the series and some keep the same registration number between models. This one was featured in The Courier around that time, it went through a number of owners as it was so rotten but I had the body rebuilt and resprayed and replaced most of the mechanicals. Engine and gearbox were completely rebuilt. When it came to refitting the trim I found that the bonnet had been welded completely wrong; the new wings had been welded with no 'step' for the side trim, so there was no chance of getting the gaps or profile right, after which it lay outside in my yard for an age, full of water, until eventually it went to a new home where it still lies in the same state, or probably worse by now. I had a rather irate e-mail from a lady in England demanding to know how I claimed to have the car from the series, as she had it. I had to explain there were about half a dozen of them... https://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_276618-Triumph-Herald-13-60-Convertible-1970.html

I like the colour, obviously from the photos it needs work but how much? The steering wheel is terrible, and I'm not keen on the interior but I don't know them well enough to really comment on condition or worth.

True, there is a substantial rotation where the piston appears to sit still, but the crank moves quite a bit, in relation to the small adjustments available to the cam teeth, that is. Junctions 28 29 and 30 are all closed at present due to collisions. Might be the same one, just with very long skid marks.

Yes, John Lennon passed his test in a Mini but then he borrowed a Herald from a producer for a photoshoot on the same day, then dented it against a bollard and ran away without telling. "Imagine there's some filler, it's easy if you try, just mix it well and, it don't take long to dry..." He was supposed to be a dire driver and preferred to be chauffeur driven.

Hers was good for pulling The Birds... Bet she had fun keeping the paintwork clean.... Fiona Richmonds was FU2 which was on a variety of cars, now owned by Billy Smart of Circus fame. PEN 15 is for sale at £99, 999. I found that out by a quick Net search, and it's funny but despite searching for other things all day on the same browser, Microsoft TWICE gave me a popup asking me to accept cookies, once because I searched for PEN 15 and the other because I searched for PEN 1 S which was allegedly never issued. Big Brother is definitely watching...