Colin Lindsay

Certainly easier than fitting the fronts, Pablo. You just need to be careful easing the old glass out - it can shatter - so it probably easier pressed out from inside, using fingertip pressure ease the lip of the rubber seal over the metal inch by inch until you can grip a corner or an edge from outside and pull it, very carefully, out all the way round. Clean up the metal and the glass, then the new seal goes round the glass and this is probably easier with two people - one to press the glass tightly to the aperture and the other to work the seal in all the way round. The more seal you get inside the metal lip the easier it becomes. Most use a piece of string or cable - put it inside the lip with two long edges dropping inside the car then ease the string out all the way around, bit by bit, so that as it comes out it pulls the lip of the rubber inside and over the metal. The video explains it, if only they'd leave off those stupid animations and things that take nearly a minute.

I thought it was the rear side windows? Paddocks have them at £35 each or £83 for a pair, which is strange... Fronts are easy to do if you remove the window; grind off the brass top rivet and replace with a blind rivet - last ones I used were 4.8mm and about 15mm long, possibly slightly large so I've ordered a few 4mm by 9mm and will report on how they fit and look. I'm also experimenting with both copper and stainless to see if they both work and which most closely resembles the original when painted.

I posted one via Royal Mail, cost me £11. A Herald bonnet, that is - fibreglass it may have been, but still huge.

At over £200 I'd agree! Park Lane Classics appear to be offering a kit for £9.50, if I've read their webpage correctly? Part number 300-014. http://parklaneclassics.co.uk/product_300-014.htm

The earth strap is in the middle; it goes from one bolt on the top half to the other end of the bolt from the bottom half so that the current is able to cross the bushes through the securing bolts; not opposite, which would be the same half of the coupling, but at right angles. In the second photo it's under the bolt and washer closest to the camera, then is above the bush on the bolt to the left so that each half is connected through the bolts.

How I wish you lived closer to me... I could employ you full-time, doing the same excellent job on my own bodywork.

Yes, that's what I should have said. I haven't tried any wire at all yet Dave but will sneak across to the in-laws Engineering works, probably tomorrow, and try a range of sizes. I'll take an original unmolested version across and four hours later, after myriad tests, gauges and examinations my father in law will confirm the size, structural strength, ancestry and chemical composition of the wire... then find me an old piece off a shelf somewhere that will match the original, by eye alone. It'll cost me a packet of chocolate biscuits but at least I know it'll fit.

I've just searched following your recommendation, Chris - it's available on eBay; I'm now wondering if it will work on early Herald dashboards... (link to dark grey below) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Foliatec-Car-Interior-Dashboard-Door-Plastic-Vinyl-Dark-Grey-Matt-Spray-Paint-09/303319069573?epid=12034810817&hash=item469f39b385:g:sWYAAOSwg8hdoewk

https://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/lm67048-lm67010-taper-roller-bearing/?msclkid=6b181d54eb701a6cd6d142d0db54b652 https://www.wychbearings.co.uk/lm67048-lm67010_timken.html I did a Net search for the first two bearing codes and they're coming back as Timken, these may be Chinese copies, but just run the numbers through Bing or Google or whatever, you'll find plenty of results giving the applications and dimensions. Maybe later with yet another coffee I'll try to find a definite vehicle / use for them... a bit of detective work. They look like inner and outer hub bearings and races, but it will be nice to confirm.

It will fit into a 6 x 4 trailer, sitting sideways. Just make sure the trailer sides are well padded and watch for damage to the bottom of the wings if they're resting on the trailer floor; an old bed quilt works wonders in protecting the metal. DO NOT!! stand it up on the rear bonnet corners; they'll crumple in seconds and are hard to reprofile again.

They can be, especially when you're sitting at the roadside, you can't get any gears, no mobile signal to call breakdown recovery and your passenger is whinging about missing Coronation Street...

I think I need less than a foot of the stuff, just to be sure (might refurbish another) so I think a raid on the in-laws is in order... The couplings clean up very nicely, easier to do than I thought they might be.

I've no personal experience of them but I know there were problems a while back, a few posts on other Triumph forums about leaks and brakes sticking, and yet other forums (Landrover) swear by them and say they're great. I've read that there was a bad batch circulating, but can't find any other info as to whether they've now been sorted, and as I've said other owners have no bother at all. Not much help, I know, but maybe someone else here has tried one?

Any of the usual hood treatments should work, try Renovo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renovo-Canvas-Fabric-Convertible-Reviver/dp/B007A3GC1Q There's also a paste called 'Black in a Flash' by Turtlewax that I used on the TR7 and it looked great.

Just remember two things: what it's supporting, and who might be walking under it. (Or what you might have parked under it, too!) Then ask yourself if you really want the cheapest?

Thanks Paul, I'll order some. I don't think I need a 125 metre roll of it, thought, even if it is only a tenner - that's the size of roll I've found in my first few online searches... and of course, 8mm or 9mm but nothing in between. Keep looking!

Any good MEG coolant will do - Comma, Halfords, anything that's not £1 for 5 litres and so suspect. you're right to avoid any of the red or yellow stuff, it's not suitable. It's the simplest, easiest to obtain, and a lot less hassle than these waterless fluids that are great until you get a leak and have to replace it, as you can't get it at the roadside... 30% mix minimum and some say 50%.

I'm currently refurbishing a couple of Herald steering couplings, the FAM1718 versions. Does anyone know off-hand the diameter of locking wire required for the shoulder bolts?

These two hooks are for my Herald hardtop; okay so it's fibreglass so a lot lighter than metal but still bulky. Problem is, I can't work out how to get it up there...

If my knees get any worse I'll need one to get ME up into the spares loft...

I wish... this Lockdown thingie is really starting to give me cabin fever. Oh for a bit of normality. Wonder how they're going to enforce social distancing, though?

I hung an entire Herald Estate roof from the ceiling in my last garage; four large screw-in hooks, and blue nylon cord. It lasted more than a few years so once up, it stayed up! I didn't risk pulling it up into place so had a mate hold it tight to the rafters then tied the ropes in place. It was cushioned with a few of those foam pipe covers, you know the tubes for frost protection, across the top where it was close to the rafters and on the edges where the ropes were.

People have gone to jail for less.

Search for stainless steel snap fasteners, used in boats and the like so you can get marine grade. I've only seen one size listed which is 15mm, and they all seem to be sold in full sets so am I right in guessing they're a standard size?

I know that vehicle tax rises astronomically after three years, and every year after that, in order to force drivers to buy new vehicles. I'd like to think that one is still original, it's only over here that we seem to have a fad for sticking Japanese parts into everything.