Colin Lindsay

The problem is back again. TSSC Northern Ireland run today, we did about 40 miles with fully working overdrive, no problem. Headed off on the run, over some very hilly mountain roads, rain came on heavily, I had wipers, screen blower and radio all on, then the fuse blew. Replaced it and got about 300 yards, blew again. Pulled in where I could, replaced it again and it blew immediately - this was with everything turned off. I had to leave the run and head for home. Over the next three or four miles I went through 13 fuses. They didn't blow immediately; some lasted maybe a mile then blew. Then I realised it blew quite quickly when I hit third gear - hence the O/D inhibitor switch was being activated. I drove for five or six miles in second - no problems. When I came to the motorway I went to third and fuse blew immediately; replaced two within 100 yards and finally pulled the two bullet connectors on the bulkhead for the reversing lights / O/D circuit. After that, no more fuses blew - just as well as I was down to my last 3 for the forty miles home. I've rewired that entire loom from the bullet connectors to solenoid; replaced the column switch, replaced the reversing and O/D inhibitor switches, and replaced the solenoid itself, all new items, connectors and wires. It doesn't matter if the O/D is on or not, the fuse still blows on selecting 3rd gear. I can have as many other things running on that circuit as I want - radio (including sat-nav charger via USB) wipers, indicators, heater blower - nothing blows it until I select 3rd, then it goes. With nothing else running on that circuit, all else turned off, O/D still makes it blow. I'm climbing the walls here but cannot work out the cause. Any thoughts?

Try to get a square-on / right angled video as it runs; even lay the camera on the floor or on top of an upturned bucket to bring it closer and eliminate camera shake, pointing upwards, and let it run. It's this area that I spotted in the earlier video, as if the cover was bent or off-centre.

Not by the engine, anyway! The problem is that most good solid lifting points are hidden by bodywork, so once you identify one you have to work out how to get a chain to it so that, once it takes the strain and becomes vertical, it doesn't crush body panels or bend any components. If you don't want to bother of buying extending ramps, that jack up once the car is on them, you could jack the car up then position the ramps one wheel at a time; but make sure everything is securely chocked and not likely to slip or move as you're lifting. Changing the oil from below is easy enough; cramped access I know but if it's easier - and safer - to cut the tunnel then go for it.

True! As one of the great ponderers on here I like to try out ideas and theories; usually by the time I've finished posting I've talked myself out of it, or into it, or someone else has...

It's a 3-rail Dolomite 1850 box with WM prefix, but the speedo head is original non O/D GT6 Mk1. The angled speedo drive was fitted by me to adapt from non O/D to O/D but should be the proper version for the GT6. Tomorrow I'll bring a sat-nav and see how far out the speedo is, and report back.

New tunnel fitted to the GT6 today, completely insulated with Dodomat and new seals in place - first impressions are that it's a huge amount quieter than the original cardboard tunnel, and secondly the carpet was not hot to touch. Long run of a couple of hundred miles tomorrow so I'll see how it performs then but looking good so far. The other tunnel for the Herald has been fibreglassed, cleaned up and painted with a clear primer prior to a good matt black topcoat. I'm very pleased with the way it turned out; it was too solid to dump but too cracked to use, so it's been saved for a few more years. It too will get the Dodomat on the underside.

NO!!!!!! DON'T tell me that. I must leave it alone... I must leave it alone...

Can't you access it from underneath? Make sure the engine / exhaust is cold though... and use an 11mm spanner. For filling the extension tube on top of a litre bottle of GL4 oil will reach easily; just squeeze the sides of the bottle to put oil into the gearbox.

Watch this part at the end: Especially THIS part: The dark part right at the tip of the yellow arrow. There's something there moving up and down as the shaft rotates, and nothing should be moving in that plane in this area. I've cropped the video to this bit only: diff.mov

New tacho fitted during the week, and it reads the same as the old one did.. Maybe they're a matched pair of incorrect ones?

There's very slight up and down movement on the end of the halfshaft, by the nut but have a look at the diff end - that's a lot of eccentric movement in time with the ticking - view from about 25 seconds on that bottom video. It looks like there's something in behind the flange that is off centre. It's not the UJ, but the diff quarter shaft in behind it that's making the noise.

It sounds like the starter is not engaging the flywheel teeth; you may need a spacer or if you have one already fitted, you may not... have a look at where the Bendix gear is in relation to the flywheel (make sure it moves freely, a little graphite dust will lubricate it, not grease) - and see if you can adjust the position any.

Most of which comes out of the gearbox rather than the engine... you hope! The scroll oil seal in the bellhousing ain't much use when the engine stops. I thought a firkin was a measurement - does that mean 'as tight as nine gallons'?

My usual state of affairs, unless someone wants something done to their car... it's amazing what you can accomplish on your own, especially without anyone dragging you away to buy useless things or make the tea...

I don't want to start the slippery slope... again.. but weren't owners claiming that modern gearboxes were an essential upgrade as the originals weren't available any more? Anyway if you put the two overdrives on, but in opposite directions, so that one cancelled out the other, couldn't you just claim it was non-overdrive?

Not a bodge, more a case of... serious neglect. If that was a child he'd do time.

Well done! However: if you've gone that far, replace the clutch. You may as well, all of the hard work is done, and at least you'll know it's been replaced. Last thing you want is to have to take it all out again in a few years...

Are you sure that wasn't ME? Chassis above from 1995 just getting its' first coat of white Hammerite and if you look very closely you'll see that the side rails are boxed in, which was recommended to me to keep rust at bay and must have doubled the weight. The diff was full of sandblast grit and the engine was badly worn. By 2003 when the roof wouldn't fit I gave up; the bulkhead was fitted incorrectly to the chassis. So now 17 years later I'm doing it all again properly. I hope. No Hammerite, anyway.

Was out in the GT6 this morning in the rain so didn't want to go too fast due to lying water and poor visibility... I was watching both speedo and tacho but in 4th O/D I was doing an indicated 56 - 58 at 2000 rpm... I think the speedo requires recalibrating! (J-type O/D from Dolomite 1850 - is that 25 or 28%?)

You'll have a nightmare job getting the bearings off the halfshaft without the correct tools, as Johny says; you'll need, at the least, the equivalent of a hub puller - any other kind of puller will either break, or distort the hub. I've sent mine away to RBMobileClassics, they advertise in The Courier, or if you want to try a second-hand unit it will be cheaper but that will be an unknown quantity. Have you looked at it with a) the wheel removed, so you can watch the motion of the brake drum, and b) with the brake drum removed so that you can watch the hub as it rotates? That video was quite shaky; I'd like a much longer look at the UJ as it rotates, if that's possible?

Herald Estate started in 1995, almost complete in 2003, and restarted again in 2020. Never been on the road in between...! Apologies, Julian, I'm hi-jacking the thread... but it happens to us all, and I'd like to think it'll hit the road eventually... just like yours.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Plenty of cars about so take your time and see what suits best. I like the idea of that O/D mod!! No intention of trying it, but it's a great innovation.

Have a look at some of the shed companies websites for comparisons and ideas. My last one was built by Gary at this firm: http://www.larachbuildings.com Far from you, I know, but check the site where you'll find lots of ideas of colour and style, and other similar firms will have variations: some use angle iron, some box section, some galvanise, others just paint, and some will insulate and clad the walls too. All for an ever higher price of course! http://washingbaysheds.com/garages/ This lot might not be far from you; it pays to call over, have a look at what they do, pick up tips and ideas and plan your own accordingly, then build it yourself for a tenth of the price... https://www.rhfgardenbuildings.co.uk/contact-us-sheds-isle-of-wight/

Funny you should mention that; I found this exploded diagram recently and I'm pretty sure number 11 was facing the other direction on the cylinder I dismantled recently...

I've just been through all this; check for electrics by turning the ignition on then moving the O/D switch. You'll see the green oil and red ignition warning lights flicker if the O/D is getting power, or try it in the dark with the headlights on and you'll see them dim slightly. This will at least tell you there's power getting to the system. On the road you'll definitely feel if the O/D kick in, and certainly when it goes off. Try a drive with it turned on and just leave it on, as the guys have already said it might just be reluctant to kick in and if you can possibly clear what's sticking either by heat from the engine / exhaust or the pressure of the oil, so it may free up. Have you checked the oil level?