Colin Lindsay

I've had my Phoenix version for 20 years now, still going strong. Was under the car a short time ago checking and the original 3 into 1 clamp fitting hasn't blown or moved since fitting. I should say: fitting the second time, the first was a bit of a pig's ear...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lights-transfer-RHD-Triumph-TR4-TR5-TR6-Spitfire-MkIV-or-1500-GT6-TR250/254586069271?hash=item3b46832117:g:zhIAAOSwsqxb7rxc Thought I was losing my touch, couldn't find this one... took ages! (Need one myself too)

We need someone to manufacture new gaskets; Stags have a great version made from modern material, Reinz, which is used on Audi and BMW. I suppose 1200 Heralds and Spitfires are way down the food chain for those...

Paddocks are selling 566592 "may need seat frame mod" ie possibly another hole drilled per side. As Pete says they do need a good tension, after all they're a rubber-spring-type thing to support the driver; I had to make up a winder thingy to pull them out far enough to get the hooks into my Herald seat frames.

I was just about to say: Ssssshhhhhh!, someone might buy it! - but someone has, hopefully Paul himself...

Have a look on eBay. You need a Bendix gear compressor, I bought this one for £1 a few years back and it's like a small suspension spring compressor. If you're trying to compress the spring any other way bear in mind you need to clamp at least two sides and it's quite strong, so take care.

As long as what you were doing on the throne wasn't the cause of the 3.2 earthquake, in which case the rescuers would be awed...

https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/head-stud-nut-improved-3 I used these on my last Herald engine rebuild

I was wondering how much clearance there will be between the frame and the wheelarch when folded up... I'd check but my rear tub is currently upside down.

Excellent stuff. Very very good in stopping heat from the gearbox tunnel. Unfortunately that means having to drive with the windows closed, which as a GT6 driver I'm not used to.

On the old forum layout, if you clicked on 'edit' for the first post you could change / edit the title too... might still work?

I'll bet that's a relief! It may be hard to identify but when you finally find the fault, and it's simple, it's a great feeling.

Just going back up the thread (due to the new forum layout!) and noted this very good point - also, make sure you keep the screws / nuts / bolts with the bits they came off as you can have fun later on matching them to the components, and you'll fit a spare when you can't find the original only to find it's too long and fouls the glass or the mechanisms. Been there and learned the hard way! I'm also surprised that Fitchett's parts are a poor fit; they're normally very good; but I do hate to hear that term 'fettling' from a supplier - it usually means they've got guys who have spent years restoring Triumphs and can make it look easy, and know where to cut / bend / adapt whereas the rest of us are lost from the word go.

A man on the telly last week from Nissan was praising electric cars to the Heavens, and was asked about people who don't have parking near their houses to leave the cars on charge. "Don't worry, we'll have the infrastructure by 2035, there'll be charging points everywhere, especially fast charging points so you can sit and have a coffee whilst your car charges." Just a short time after, the Gov was debating extending the manufacture of petrol and diesel cars as they can't meet that date as things stand...

I'm waiting for the regulation that says we can sell unused water back to the grid, I'll just plug the drainpipes into the system and the torrential and perpetual rain will make me a fortune. Last house I was in, on top of a hill (the interestingly named Babylon Hill!) there was insufficient pressure to run a power washer or even a good electric shower. That has certainly changed now that I'm down in the dips.

Sub zero in a Triumph gearbox tunnel???? Seriously???

Must be a late WSM then, Rob. I had to check to be sure, never having had a 13/60 convertible, but it seems that all 1200s and earlier have the seat belt on the b-post; if you look at the trims available you'll see that 1200 rear trims are solid but 13/60 rear trims have a slot for the seat belt which presumably goes right back to the wheelarch. Estates and saloons are as you say on the top rail just behind the b-post.

In mine they were connected to the top of the B post; at least the early 1200s are. That's why I mentioned that late cars may be different - maybe 1360s?

The only option I have - rather than dump it - is to repair to destruction. Maybe the seals have codes on them that can identify them. I'll assume I start with the big nut on the top?

The large washer - in fact a very thick washer / plate - in the wheelarch is the mounting point for the GT6 seatbelt, but not the Heralds I have (unless very late models had it?) However the metal it's screwed to is usually present...

They do the same in the mod-shop three hundred yards from me. They also heat them red hot then when the car has settled to where they want it, they throw cold water over the springs. If you drive behind them on the road it looks so uncomfortable, as if there's no suspension at all.

Now THAT is one problem I don't have, as my GT6 is fitted with the column stalk, but I remember it causing bother on my MK3 years ago. I think I still have the incredibly small bullet connectors that Chic Doig sold me to connect the replacement wiring to the O/d switch in the gearstick. Modern silicone-coated cabling should be better.

Looking good. In fact, looking very good.

Agree! I rebuilt the loom with completely new cables and then covered it in corrugated tubing scrounged from an HGV garage, plus I added a few rubber-insulated P-clips to secure it to the gearbox. It's not going to move and so wear against anything for a few years... I hope!

There will be! They'll come out of the woodwork as soon as they see you on the road.