Colin Lindsay

It's a long thin metal strip - don't ask me how it's attached - possibly tack welded in place! All it seems to do is to fill the gap along the top of the door frame. In one of my cars it was silver, in the convertible it's red. You can duplicate it easily enough with a suitable metal dowel, or else just cut a rubber seal to length and press it down into the gap between the door frame and the quarterlight.

29 is the metal support bracket; do you mean the little metal tubular strip that runs across the top of the door here?

At the front, the rubber seal to the top of the windscreen frame runs along the entire bottom of the main front header; you'll need to pull the seal out then unscrew the metal trim that it sits in. This will enable you to peel the hood material back and you'll see the two foremost webbing clips rivetted to the front of the rail. It may be possible to get at them by peeling the hood forward thereby not having to remove it from the header rail assembly but I've never tried that.

There's one way to find out, if you haven't already done it... not sure how the heavier oil would affect the overdrive, though, if at all. It won't be anything that another oil change can't fix.

Provided the chassis has not been welded incorrectly then that just needs a shim or two on the rear tub body mountings; as a test, loosen the two tub mountings on that side and the two on the bulkhead and put a jack underneath, gently jack it up slightly and watch the door gap. It will widen at the top. Once you get it to a good proportion then insert shims.

Yes, it was just to give Paul an idea of what we meant and how it worked. It's one of those annoying situations where I really want to hop on a plane, go to Paul's house, look at the engine and work it out when it's in front of me, otherwise it's just hypothesis and really frustrating!

Yes, the angle of filter doesn't matter; although even with all sorts of non-return valves they do all drain back eventually, even if it does take a week or so. I was searching for a good photo - which I couldn't find - but did manage to find a diagram of how the PRV works. I think even with it fully open it won't normally take all of the oil, unless the filter is completely stopping the flow and forcing it through the PRV since there's nowhere else for it to go. A combination of blocked or unsuitable filter and weak PRV spring?

You can see the PRV straight above it in the photo, half hidden by the filter.

Coffee and biccies works for me, a few little swearies then go to something else for a time. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it. I've been in the same frame of mind with my Herald Estate, every time I think I'm getting there, there's something else. THEY WON'T DEFEAT US!

Thanks. I must get a look at one in the flesh, just for curiosity' sake. Nice to learn something new.

Seat belt is perfect, I have some salted away for my own convertible. The retaining brackets are available new if yours are badly rusted; but mark where they go and if you can keep the old webbing intact as a reference it will be so much easier on reassembly.

I was actually going to suggest simply swapping the bottom leaf...

But it does have a pull-out ashtray half way up the right-hand side, just where the string is hanging... What's really behind it, and the panel beside it?

I've finally started to bag and label stuff, about twenty years too late for my cars, but the grey matter no longer holds the same data as it used to. I really hate suppliers who will supply a part - usually a bolt or nut - and won't give the dimensions, just their own part number, so that I can't check if I have any already... then when it arrives I find half a dozen.

You can clearly see how much thicker the bottom leaf is, hence the reason why it won't clamp into the diff. That's probably based on a Spitfire swing spring, not the GT6. Can you send them the spec of the GT6 spring, or even the original, to have a replacement made?

Horseshoe trims are the same - pull off and try to avoid damaging paintwork. For replacing them consider a few dabs of modern mastic, such as Tigerseal, so you won't have to use metal clips that eat into your paintwork.

GASRAMKIT from the Club Shop - according to their latest catalogue; no other part number that I can see.

The bonnet is interesting; once clipped to the bonnet hooks it sits up in the centre... but that's for the future. I've left things as they are until the heavier ratchets get here. Even the long side trim on the rear wing has popped off... in the meantime I've other little jobs to do, such as the rear wheelarch trims and the lettering on the rear hatch.

I was just about to post that.... sounds like a plan. A light dab on a fingertip pressed into any pinholes would certainly seal them. Vinegar and brown paper - BEST brown paper - is only for dodgy knees. You could try an outdoor cover if the car has to live outdoors, but beware the cheaper variety such as LIDL, they actually attract water and then trap it inside the car.

They're sold under the rather strange name of 'Nipple Therapy'... don't ask. However at £65, unless you're doing a lot of calipers, a replacement is a lot cheaper. http://www.fraserbrowneng.co.uk/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 Only one S/H caliper on eBay at present and it's LHS: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-GT6-MK3-L-H-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-1966-70-64327813-16P/303546477388?hash=item46acc7ab4c%3Ag%3A2N8AAOSwjMtentUM&LH_ItemCondition=3000 There's a pair of Ford Capri 3.0 calipers for £40, they're also type 16 but are they the same mountings?

Yes if they're the same oval stick-on version as the Herald; I bought more than one at the International and other shows in the last few years for future jobs; usually about a pound. Can't find any online at present but they're out there. If they're inside the visor then as Ian says any mirror of roughly the same size can be slid in behind.

Thanks. Now I have to do all of that on TOP of the gardening, painting, DIY and general modern slavery. I suppose I do the vacuuming and bog cleaning already, so it's only the ironing...

What a strange engine! It's amazing how, after so many years of Triumphs, the Stanpart engine looks so familiar, but anything else looks so alien at first.

Oh Lord. That's a bit... aftermarket. The relay isn't an original, so may make it harder to identify terminals, and the wires are all the same colour, so you may have fun tracing which is which. It is correctly fed from from the SW terminal on the coil, I've been trying to find a photo of the standard setup for you but no go so far, but I have found a coloured schematic that may illustrate where the wires go from the relay; he's added a warning light but otherwise it's as the factory manual.

SEE? I rest my case, Your Worship.