Colin Lindsay

3/8 UNF, the original length is 5.5 inches so leave a little bit longer for sufficient threads for the nut.

Just while you have access - on the top face of the gearbox metal housing, along the side of the flat alloy top cover, there will be a serial number - along the rusty brown bit in this photo. Two letters followed by numbers. If you can see it, it will help identify the box for spares or maybe repairs.

Passenger side is in behind the fuel tank so hard to reach; the other side is much easier. It can be a bit of a faff to get the threads to bite so many members replace the bolt with a length of threaded bar, so that there's only a nut on the inside and you can attach it to the overrider first then slot it through the tube. Don't forget to replace the earth connection for the lights!

Belt and braces. It can't hurt, and may even help.

Buy more!! With 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 spanners you can pretty much dismantle the entire car. Welcome Jeff, I was looking at that car and it seems an honest Herald; you never pay too much for one as firstly it makes you happy - which is priceless - and secondly the longer you keep it, the better value it becomes. I think Mark's correct about the overdrive cam, you have two stalks on the right side of the steering column. It will only work in 3rd and 4th. For reverse press down whilst in neutral then out to the left and forward. This exploded diagram will give you an idea of what to expect once you start to dismantle; I have photos if you need detail.

What he said, up there!! You can actually buy professionally made magnet bands that wrap round the filter, but a good quality magnet from an old speaker, securely taped to the outside, will catch a lot of stuff, even when the engine stops. Try one, run it for a bit, then remove the filter and cut it open - you'll be amazed at what's stuck to the face where the magnet is. This link is to one manufacturer of specially-made magnets but expensive!! https://synlube.com/magnets.htm And beware the junk about improving fuel economy on some on-line sellers sites; I doubt if a magnetic field will improve engine efficiency...

I've got one, simply because it was on sale at the International many years ago... but it's now been fitted since the early 2000s and never given any trouble. I agree with Rob, there are a lot of silly 'weight savers' out there (distributor pedestal must save a few tons) and many are just a waste of funds, unless you really need one when your original is defunct. The one in JF's link does look like good value, though...

How does it look against the front wing? Can the door be tilted on the hinges? You either adjust the rear wing, or the door - that's the choice!! Door will probably be easiest - says I, a complete novice bodyworker!! - but can it be shimmed anywhere? Post a photo of the whole side if you can so that we can gauge the fit against the other areas. Any chance of obtaining another door and checking the fit of that?

That's the way I always took it to be, the hole is just a straight-through tapped drilling - try it with a normal bolt which you'll know isn't tapered - and the plugs are tapered. Sump, gearbox and diff are all straight-through.

I know the Herald block changed during production from dished to bucket, but you can't mix the two due to the design of the block. Maybe the Vitesse will take either?

That may be the fault of the sills, if they were added since the car was originally built. I've seen a few like that, where the sill has not been the proper profile to sit flush. I don't think bending or warping the door will help any, but I could be pleasantly surprised!

The old grease is usually pretty manky and cleans off with petrol or the like; I get as much off as possible more for cleanliness sake than anything else! Greasing the rack when it's visible gets more grease round than trying to use the grease nipple afterwards. I've done three during lockdown and while they get more familiar they don't get any easier... same struggle with the gaiters. It's worth it all in the end, though.

Bumfit!

It would, but more on very high-value vehicles where having everything original is important. It's nice to see a car with the original engine and other ancillaries, but then, they may be original and uncared-for, so it's no guarantee of quality. It's a long, drawn-out debate; does fitting a 1500 engine into a 1200 make it more desirable, or has it lost its' originality? Not enough page space here for the endless pros and cons...

Reckon this one is a scam? Listed five times (at least) over three days and based in United Kingdom, Italy... and they've already got one bid....

Some nice 13/60 on eBay at present: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-13-60-Convertible-1969/124232111735?hash=item1ceccf9677:g:s2wAAOSwpd9e8RQV https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1971-Triumph-Herald-13-60-GENUINE-ORIGINAL-Convertible/124226707261?hash=item1cec7d1f3d:g:GXkAAOSwkWRe6mRi

Didn't someone have a 'Gusset Brown' 2000 a few years back? 😮

I regularly meet people in local shops wearing more equipment than the Apollo moon landings. I don't know if it's to protect them from me, or me from them.

I just used Lithium 2, same as I use on bearings. Rubber glove on, handful of grease and extend both sides of the steering rack to liberally coat the teeth. The stuff will get everywhere, the bigger end of the gaiters will slide about and cause all sorts of frustration, every time you think it's on it will jump off again, but you'll eventually get a bit on, then more, and finally enough that it will stay on on all sides, long enough to get a cable tie round it. The hardest part after that is judging where to clamp the skinny end on the steering arm, so that it's not strained but stays on when the steering wheel is turned.

Latest on the MOT over here is that they're recommencing from July 20th on a very restricted basis - allegedly for cars that cannot avail of a TEC, such as cars that have had no MOT within the last 12 months, which will include my GT6. We can phone (phone only) for an appointment from July 1st so assuming I can get an appointment, I'll have three weeks to get the GT6 ready and might actually save some of this summer from complete Triumph-less gloom.

The top photo of the pair is the set I'm used to; one large and one small if that's the way I can put it. The lower one is so odd I was just wondering if it was from a different range - they do other marques as well - and they had just used a photo of any gaiter from their stock, not necessarily the one they supply. Fitting is.... fun... plenty of grease, false starts, restarts, and a feeling of: " you won't defeat me, gaiter..."

Cost me just under £100, it was a collection of parts that I cobbled together from a spare Mk1 motor which I had dismantled and repaired to destruction years ago. All of the parts were there but dismantled. Anthony replaced the brushes and the wiring, plus some of the metal bits, and blasted, cleaned and repainted the rest before sending back a complete motor ready for refitting. The motor that I had on the GT6 at the time was blowing fuses but as these are so rare, and MOT was looming, I kept that one and sent off the spare just in case. I was very pleasantly surprised when a complete running motor was returned and it's working far far better than the original was. I'll probably send him the other one too in order to have a backup.

Check that you do actually have a headlamp flash - early Heralds, for example, don't, so their switch has three wires, but later ones do and so have a four wire switch. The switches are interchangeable so yours could have been swapped for a non-flash model due to a fault or other problem. (Easiest way is to pull it and see if it rocks back to a flash position; others won't) or as Adrian says remove the cowls and count the wires.

That lower one looks very strange; is it a new pattern or just a generic photo and not of the actual article? Any that I have ever ordered have been the same as the top pair and you need four hands and twenty fingers to fit them.

Those are cool!