Colin Lindsay

I think - need backup on this one - that if you unscrew the clip assembly from the roof then it falls into separate pieces and so is easier to assemble, then bolt back to the roof. I think the design that prevents it falling out also prevents it being pushed back in.

A big bag of Pete's favourite sweeties...

They can vary; mine (Herald) all have the key details of commission, engine and body numbers - but in addition some, not all, have heater, width of wheels, screen washer, disc brakes, seatbelts, and key numbers; the TR7 is more advanced with laminated windscreen, seatbelts, tyres and even dipping headlights. I can't find the GT6 version - for some reason it's gone off the wall and been replaced, must ask 'er indoors asap!! - but I've got another non-Triumph certificate with gearbox and rear axle numbers, and I know I was able to confirm the originality of my earliest Herald against records of the gearbox and diff numbers. I've a lot of old lever-arch files to rummage through, where's me coffee??

Triumph factory records are largely complete - on your BMIHT Certificate you'll see them all even down to the key numbers, tyres and wheel size; certainly mine has a lot of info for GT6, Herald and even the TR7. My Herald has the diff and gearbox numbers recorded too. DVA doesn't really use anything other than commission and registration numbers but if you look at the V5 you'll see many of them there too, engine number etc. It's usually the chassis number that's not recorded, as it was for use only by the factory.

Just completed it. Do you own any "future classics?" That's like asking "Do you own any winning lottery tickets?" Hold on and I'll consult my crystal ball...

That clears up what Kevin meant - got it now. Stick to the WSM, it's best for peace of mind.

I was being humerus...

That's the same as the old joke about making your house smell fresh in every room; spray air freshener on your collar.

Not grease??

That's what I thought, but me being me I assumed I'd made a foo-pas. I know I read that within the last month or two, that the grub screw if not disturbed should be left alone and the two other bolts tightened to the correct torque, and have been desperately searching my manuals for the exact wording - but of course can't find it this morning!

Oil changes should if possible be a straight swap - old oil out, new oil in straightaway and start the engine asap. If you leave it long enough for the last remnants of the oil to empty the pump completely, you'll run the risk of it failing to pick up the new oil when it is restarted.

It's interesting to see that instructions in the WSM are to 'tighten the screw by hand as tight as possible without bending the wrench'... some of us can bend wrenches more easily than others, and it all depends on the quality of the wrench... I don't quite get this bit, though... I think I know what you're getting at but it seems to cancel itself out!

Any chance that a metal insert might strengthen the area?

Yikes!! Definitely third world. If that was the UK they'd be closed down immediately, there'd be a Government enquiry and campers would be suing....

No; they're probably made like that now so that you can trim the centre as required. It's the outer rim that makes the seal, so as long as that fits as it should, you're fine.

Morning David, welcome to the forum - one thing from the start - DO NOT STRIP IT DOWN!! Do not. No! Trust me, I'm talking from personal experience, having three Heralds, none of which have been on the road in years and the last rebuild started with the famous words: "I'll just start a quick chassis swap and it'll be back on the road in six months." That was 2008. Keep it as a drivable car, get it out on the road, and you can then drive it to garages, or friends', or club meetings, and have work done on it - far easier than a collection of bits which takes up a lot of room and never quite seems to go back together again. Believe me, it's much easier to be able to drive the car to a bodyshop, or a welder, or local mechanic, than to have him come to you or to get it transported. I've seen much worse than that, and it's a car you can get out in and enjoy, not worry about paint damage or marks if you take it out. Here's hoping for some good top-down weather.

The current complaint from the anti-car brigade is rubber particles from tyres. Tyres wear, the rubber that wears off has to go somewhere, and is ending up in fish around the Great Barrier Reef or thereabouts and we're all eating it in our fish fingers. As brakes are no longer made from asbestos and there's no lead in the petrol any more, they have to get us somewhere else.

That large single one is the allen key - it's set to a specific torque to collapse in the event of a collision. The two smaller ones on the other side are easier to deal with - I think they're 7/16, undo both, move the column, and retorque back to suitable tightness.

We had the same, an old fireplace in my last house. "Triple-wrap it in bin liners and throw it in the bin." The current bug-bear is plasterboard, no-one will take it. I have a lot of it for disposal, and the council don't want it. There's too litle for any specialist disposal company to want to deal with it. As with the asbestos, it's broken down into small pieces, wrapped in bin liners, and put into the fortnightly bin.

No, that's called Dyscalculia.

Either, Paul. Hoover or brush the dust off first then spray with brake cleaner to wash the rest off. I don't usually get any near the pads or shoes, though - I'll remove those first, or else mask off the friction surface. I've no idea if it would affect the surface or contaminate it in any way, but I just go for the safe option just in case.

The small one goes in behind the big one; it's a hangover from the days when the commission plate (the large one) was a lot smaller, and the body plate (smaller one) sat parallel and below it. You should see the holes on the side of the bulkhead in two pairs one above the other; small body number goes first then the larger one is rivetted to the two holes above so that it covers it.

I'll agree with that, a good socket-powered version works wonders. If you look at the photo of my steering racks you'll see the top one has a twin-wire fixing to the right, but clip-style fittings on the other three ends. The lower one has four cable ties, which were my own since those supplied were terrible quality. The wire-twist fittings were the factory standard, but you can use hose clips, any kind of modern metal clamp, or cable ties - just whatever looks neat.

The plastic bit goes through the hole leaving the metal part insulated from the wheel but able to move up and down on the spring as the wheel rotates. If your entire brush pencil goes right through, can it be bulked out for example with tape, or even glued in place? You can also attach a cable from the horn push to the other end of the pencil, just solder it in place and this guarantees contact every time.

Maybe, but what thread?