Colin Lindsay

That's probably an aftermarket version, might even have a magnet on it, but much easier to work with than the standard square plug. You'll have to remove it to find out. It's also the lowest point of the gearbox, so any oil leaking from anywhere drips off it, so can be a bit of a red herring when looking for leaks. I'd remove it - you'll be topping the oil up anyway so a refill isn't that much more bother - and make sure there's no damage, clean up the threads, and replace it.

The doors will adjust up and forwards as required, and you can pack the hinges out to move the edge outwards if required. Just loosen the hinge bolts and slide as required, but you'll probably need help as it's a difficult one-man job. This is assuming your sills are fitted correctly as the car can sag in the middle thereby closing up the door gaps beyond easy adjustment. If that's the case your windows usually don't wind fully up before they hit the screen pillars. Been there!

Yep; there's a shaped seal that fits into the rail snug to the rivets you can see in the photo. It compresses when the hood clips are fastened and will close up that gap nicely.

You'll go blind. I've found a lot of me, including my murder and a few of my graves. Interesting...

According to John Thomason's Guide to Originality, early Mk2 wheels were unique to the car, a 15" same as on the TR5 but the spokes covered in matt black; later cars after the facelift at KC75000 used the same as the Mk3 Spitfire only with better padding, which to be honest looks the same as the Mk3 GT6... I can't find a single photo on the Net but can scan the book if you want?

I had to use the straps for the GT6, a set of 5 is about £30, and they were woeful. Too long. I ended up cutting and rebending the hooks, which gave me an extra (or less) two inches to work with and at least got my buttocks up off the floor. This is what I found under the Herald 1200 seat:

Tigerseal is what I'm using, it was hard to find anything else these days... I noticed that with the front pair of bulkhead bolts in place on the front outriggers, but not tightened, the side mountings were quite far forward to the extent that the bolts went upwards at an angle (as far as the chassis rail tubes will allow) and I had to raise the bulkhead off the chassis to get all six fitted. The last pair are right back against the rear of the mounting so that the mounting clamp had to be flattened on one side to get it near the bolt thead coming up through the body mounting. I'll tighten up, see how it looks and try some measurements, then replace the mounting clamps with unmodified ones to straighten everything up again. Chassis and bulkhead were rebuilt by Chic Doig although back in the 1990s, so I'll assume the proportions are correct. The roof never fitted which is why the Estate was abandoned for so many years, but I'm hoping that more care now, than was taken then, will sort that out. Back in for another coffee to settle the head, then out again.

The prop won't drop straight down; it will slide backwards into the wider space at the diff and then slide down below it at a sufficient angle to slide the entire thing out. It can only come out in one direction and be replaced the same way, upwards and forwards. I've found a good photo that will give you some idea of the dimensions.

It's not a part that is required much, so I've never seen any for sale, and it's likely one will have to be made or cut off your old chassis. That's why I'd ask one of the breakers for one, and save your own chassis for when you need it. Think ahead!

I'm inclined to agree; I'd bin the bumper but keep a nice pair of chrome overriders. AND fit them properly.

As long as we keep it with a space ie JohnD and John D we're ok, although we could refer to John space and John no-space... Back at work many years ago we had two Debbies, they were known as Debbie Does and Debbie Doesn't... smoke, that is. I've searched a few Classic Car Hire firms on the Net, either they're closed due to Covid 19, or they don't have a Spitfire. (One has a Stag)

I've just started that today; bulkhead set onto chassis five minutes ago then in for coffee before starting to bolt it down. Some of the modern clamps - the flat bits that fit into the floor brackets - are amazingly thin and distort very easily. I may end up sandblasting and repainting some of my older ones and use those, they're twice as thick. Tom - the booklet says to glue (mastic) the pads to the chassis before setting the body on; this would point to spacers and packers being on top.

I replaced the pedal return springs on a Herald this morning, and the new springs were so poor I put the old ones back on. Why do we put up with this?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1969-TRIUMPH-GT6-MK2-LE-MANS-BUILT-BY-PRACTICAL-CLASSICS-MAGAZINE-FULL-RESTO/293599205090?hash=item445be056e2:g:xlcAAOSwqA1e1O~V Interesting car, I remember the rebuild series. That front bumper just does not look right, though.

I actually never realised they were used, but you can see the foam pattern on one, plus he's used a lot of cleaner to give them a shine. You can buy them new for £20 each, so I suppose that's a 50% saving.

Just put a long shaft on that side....

Maybe his bottom is in very good condition, so he no longer needs new diaphragms? I have two sitting ready to fit for ages now, but will need more before long for another set of seats. Pity he didn't have GT6 versions... but they're unobtanium.

I like what you've done with the place....

I'm wondering if the 'catch' of the retaining arm is meant to sit down inside that hat-shaped washer; if you imagine it as a fibre washer with a bit added on it makes sense, so that the flat bottom sits in the same way as the original washer but it's now got a snazzy top-hat shaped bit into which the clip fits?

Which is why the Net is full of great articles on how to remove or by-pass them. EGR valve being one such.

It's a myth put about by garages and dealerships to make sure we use their vastly overinflated and hugely expensive services. You only have to read the jargon in some of the modern handbooks to see how much baloney it all is. "our team of highly trained experts" - teenagers with a supervisor "using specialist tools" - a big spanner. "will tighten to a carefully set preload" - tight as f.... "to arrive at a predetermined optimal stance" - so that all four wheels touch the ground. "for the ultimate driving experience" - so that nothing falls off on the way to the shop. Simples!

Chic Doig will probably make one from scratch, or else he'll have a few that can be removed from old chassis. http://chicdoig.co.uk

Last car I rebuilt was a TR7, just finished and sold it two weeks ago, and the coil cable is yellow and white... so it looked fine to me.

Happened to me when the BBC were filming our GT6s out on a club run for a local programme, my Mk3 disgraced itself by breaking down repeatedly and it turned out to be a poor copy of a rotor arm that kept jumping off the spindle. Some of the red ones were just poor copies of the proper red versions, and even worse than the black copies.

First two words don't apply to me... but: The handbrake should work, regardless of the self adjuster assembly, so I'd reckon something else isn't right. On my late Mk3 the lever used to undo the brakes rather than tighten them, this was due to wear, but they slackened off very quickly in use. You need to treat the self-adjuster the same as you would treat the bottom adjuster on earlier cars; adjust it right out until the drums just about fit over the shoes, then adjust the handbrake to suit. If you try to adjust the shoes by repeated pulling on and off of the handbrake, it may actually undo them rather than expand them. Pete's idea of drilling holes to manually adjust the adjusters is good, but along with that I'd remove the levers altogether so that they can't undo the shoes, or revert to the earlier system with a bottom-shoe adjuster. The shoes will still have to be adjusted as they wear, but at least you know every pull of the handbrake is not loosening them, like mine did. I've found a video illustrating how they work, but not giving any help...