Colin Lindsay

That could be a weak / flat battery or a poor connection at the battery terminals. Try a full charge on the battery and listen if the starter solenoid clicks; even if it does there may not be enough power to crank the starter. You can short the two solenoid terminals and if the starter turns, that's your problem, but put the battery on charge first. I've done that many times after working on the car, too many starts and not enough running to recharge it again.

You work for eBay? "The seller has already received positive feedback for the speedy delivery"... on an item they had to cancel three months after purchase due to not being in stock. ...but you've already got 5 stars so no worries here... and no hurry either.

I know, I wasn't going to list them all, nor all the cross-references... not enough coffee in the world Those are just the direct 714/2 variants. What I'm wondering is who makes them, how many are the same with just different paint and labels, and what the best ones are, avoiding the cheapie corner-cutters.

I've done a cross-reference of UNF 3/4 oil filters as follows: AC: X18, X19, X501, X558, X559, X75, ALCO FILTER: SP-910, ALFA ROMEO: 510313, 510889, 530388, 534372, 60504284, 60504569, BOSCH: 0451103349, CLEAN FILTERS: DO1809, DO232, DO240, DO262B, CLEAN FILTERS: DO271, DO292, COMLINE: EOF103, EOF103, EOF105, DENCKERMANN: A210024, FEBI BILSTEIN: 39767, FIAT: 4434791, FIAT: 4469396, 4469397, 4469398, 4469399, 4469400, 46805828, FIAT: 5939832, 60797030, 71736162, 7724167, FILTRON: OP566/2, FILTRON: OP566/2, OP5662, FORD: 5009087, 5011997, 5017811, FRAM: PH9104, GENERAL MOTORS: 93891771, LADA: 21011012005, LADA: 21051012005001, MAHLE FILTER: OC473, OC141, MANN-FILTER: W714/2, MECAFILTER: ELH4087, MOTAQUIP: VFL323, PURFLUX: LS515, QUINTON HAZELL: QFL0118, QFL0259, RENAULT: 7701415054, SCT Germany: SM130, SEAT: 0003936608, SEAT: 0003963373, 3936608, 3963373, SE020030288A, SE028030288A, SEAT: XE028030288A, TECNOCAR: R122, UFI: 23.127.03, 23.169.00, UFI: 23.176.00, 23.268.00, 23.447.00, VAG: 0003936608, 0003963373, VAG: 3963373, SE020030288A, SE028030288A, XE028030288A, WIX FILTERS: WL7319, BFO4125 Theoretically any of these should fit; it's just down to how they seal and more importantly perform. Plus availability and price, of course. Just memorise them all and next time you're at an autojumble...

Lo that reminds me of my first Daihatsu Charade, it was only clocked to 95 so used to go right off the clock and I drove it by the rev counter... 5500 rpm in 5th was around 100.

I had metal gates fitted to my last house, and the bracket that goes into the ground for the drop-bars was simple shaped and drilled iron. The fitter sprayed it with a galvanising spray from an aerosol can and almost twenty years later it was still rust free.

I have a selection of old ones, they vary in thickness quite considerably and the alloy ones in the middle are too far gone to be reused without skimming - I can always use good ones, though, still another Herald to go. The rusty ones to the right came off old trailers and flatbed lorries, I picked them up off the ground in a breaker's yard and need to blast and clean them up, but they're quite thin and may suffice for slight adjustment.

Are you gluing it in place as you go? Little bit of adhesive down in the rail channel and as you get the rubber into place clamp it bit by bit.

You can try to compress them with a hose clip or similar and slide them into the tube that way, same as you would do piston rings, but otherwise use plenty of lubrication. The end of the tube is like a circular knife and will slice them off nicely.

That will be the proof of the pudding and you may not need anything further. Let us know how it goes.

Yes, that large one in the middle is a common bullet terminal so black is connected to red; first thing to do is remove that black, then go to the other large bullet connector and remove the red one, swap them over so that all blacks are together and all reds - single cables from the loom on one side and dual cables to the lights on the other for simplicity - then see how that goes. The reds are common to both lights so power in from the loom will split to both front left and right and earth through the blacks. There's also a white and green which I thought should be rear indicator, but if it's there it must be for one side or the other. One front indicator should be green and red and the other plain green, your green / red from the loom goes to green and the green and white then goes to green / red; swap those two over for starters and keep like for like.

I'll PM you asap, Clive!

Met a 13/60 convertible on the Comber Road out of Newtownards on Sunday afternoon, J-reg (maybe started with EJJ?) with a male driver heading into Ards. Two tone, dark almost navy blue or black with some creamish panels - looked like a bitser with replacement panels that hadn't been sprayed yet? Nice to see it out on the road, a glorious afternoon for it.

Mine is on all four wheels, it doesn't make any difference but it's more difficult to shunt to body about if the car is jacked or raised - you can push it right off axle stands - and to be honest if they fit, I'd use the larger clamps. In your lower photo: top right six are for centre of tub at the join (with large washers, and the silver one looks like an aftermarket version) centre left four are for gearbox tunnel cover, and the lower two on the right look to be for the engine bay side valences where they screw to the front chassis legs (but you need 4). The two above could be fitting screws for the underside of Lucas horns and whilst the top pair of the six look familiar they're not springing to mind at present.

If it affects the beam, or light output significantly then it fails.... that doesn't look like it will, but they also fail if moisture getting in affects the beam or light output, and you know it will only get worse. It will also fail if it's likely to injure any person. A damaged lens - which that isn't, but does this also mean clear glass? - is also a fail. Like you, I'd replace - it's the sort of thing my eyes would be drawn to everytime I looked at my car, even if no-one else ever noticed it.

If you look at the first one illustrated - top left - the head is big enough to slide in behind the hole in the trim (if it's the 'keyhole' shape I'm thinking of) and sturdy enough hold the trim, but it's also shaped to press into the hole in the metal and grip it by degrees, so you can press it in as far as you need to. That's the 'fir tree' design and available in a whole range of sizes. I've done that before with Triumph trims. On my own GT6 I have rear speakers in the side trims so was able to use a countersunk bolt and penny washer in behind the trim, then reach up behind the metal and fix a butterfly nut onto it. I was only able to reach two of the holes in the metal, due to thick arms and large hands... but it's held in place very securely which it needs due to the weight of the speakers.

No right or wrong, Peter just what works best and more importantly easiest! Never thought of Denso! Good stuff on rear springs. The rubber strips which I got from a supplier are slightly thicker than I would like but don't go all the way across; fine for the underside on top of the outrigger but they leave gaps if used between the body halves as they hold the floor up where they sit. I'm using strips on the underside but I'll just mastic the top joint once I'm happy with the gaps, and will certainly cover the screw heads with to protect the carpet, even though there'll be light soundproofing over it all - just to bulk the carpet out and make it feel more... luxurious... if that's a word you can use with Heralds.

Modern cars use plastic clips of all shapes and sizes; a relative bought me an entire selection box of them many years ago and I still use them in a lot of trimming jobs. The large headed 'fir tree' clips are good for trim panels; more than once I've glued one to the rear side of a panel then just pressed it into place. There's bound to be a modern equivalent that is more efficient than the original metal versions.

I read somewhere recently that the tub needs at least one pair of solid spacers to give a firm grip, otherwise it would flex about on all-rubber washers and creak alarmingly. I use solid metal washers (bought at TSSC Stafford many many years ago and I remember having a great conversation with Hugh Roberts about them) but some kits supply a pair of c-washers which might do the job provided they stay in place. The metal c-shaped shims should be thinner. When I last built this Herald I used rubber strips between the two body halves but they didn't sit properly, so this time I'm omitting them. Once I get the gaps correct I'll prise the floors up slightly and seal them with mastic before screwing to the centre outrigger. My biggest problem is the rear tub treadplates which are sitting up slightly against the bulkhead plates so that there's a noticeable gap; these will also get mastic and be clamped together before painting.

My estate did that too, never moved but dumped a lot of oil on the floor; I realised that a) I had overfilled it when it was replaced after the rebuild and b) I had jacked the rear of the car up a lot, so the front of the diff was tilted down and the oil was free to run out - which it will! It's now reached a more sensible level and is leak-free. The seal isn't a totally-leak free seal, just keeps the oil in during normal road use.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Oil-Filter-Wix-24037/193512385969?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225085%26meid%3D428a17c973a14e249e2c06d79f04698d%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D20%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D200929849012%26itm%3D193512385969%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2510209%26brand%3DWix&_trksid=p2510209.c100903.m5276 $3.57 to buy and over $28 to post. Same part is used by the MG Midget but I had no success in finding any in the UK. Still probably cheaper than having one machined up. Clive - if you have another spare, put my name on it...

I nipped out and measured an unfitted one; when closed up, right angled bracket end to right angled bracket end is 358mm. It extends out fully to 625mm but then drops back to locked position which is exactly 600mm. The right angled mounting brackets obviously pivot so I set them to exact right angles at either end, both horizontal to a vertical stay.

That's where the support bracket goes; looks like you're missing at least one - part numbers 9 and 10 in the attached. They're welded to the bonnet as additional supports; yours looks to have been rebuilt - and resprayed - without any. If you can get a pair - they'll have to be cut off another bonnet or else remanufactured - you can glue them on with some of today's wonder adhesives thereby removing the need to weld and damage the paintwork.

I've got both tub and bulkhead on, bulkhead went on surprising easily, but the tub is a difficult job for one. I didn't mastic the metal mountings on top of the diff rails, so they slid about quite a bit. I've now got it roughly in place but no idea of how it's fitting until I try the doors. The WSM says 5/16 gap for the bonnet, but the rear edge is curved and does not follow the exact line of the bulkhead, so where do you take the measurement from? At the edges it's 5/16 but then out quite a bit in the middle. It's also quite raised in the middle, between the wiper blades, which is worrying - goes down when I press on it, but springs up again. This would point to the sides squeezing in. I'll have to get help to gap it, I can't lift, slide and watch all at the same time.

Anyone got any of these spare? I've got two and realised earlier that I need four, but can't find any others. You can get new ones, but I prefer the originals. Beer tokens waiting!