Colin Lindsay

In the kit you'll find two black washers and a narrow metal bush; these go on the bottom of the gearstick. For this joint you'll have two (usually white) half-bushes and a thicker metal tube for the bolt. It'll all be a snug fit and impossible to get the wrong way round, unlike that one in your photo - which looks like the gearlever one in the wrong place.

Why is the word 'front' always at the back?

I've been waiting since mid-March for woodstain, but the supplier claims they are having trouble sourcing it, despite having marked it as 'despatched' on March 24th. An order I placed with a supplier on Monday has not yet arrived, but James Paddock can still do it in less than 24 hours.

Classic Mini ones are nice, and still available, also the Lucas L562 for Landrovers.

Never tried fitting rubbers over alloys, but then the rubbers themselves can be quite difficult to fit especially round the corners; they take a while to mould to the correct shape. The alloy end caps I mentioned earlier are also quite difficult to fit; not surprising when you see the 'newer' ones (bought in the late 1990s) with the originals... even allowing for slight distortion of the old battered one I can fit the new hard-metal version inside it.

Just to resurrect an older thread, but I'm exploring options for repair and replacement of the top rivet, the domed brass version that once removed cannot be replaced again! I've searched for brass dome-headed rivets but I'm not yet sure of the size required; has anyone tried them? I've tried a nut and bolt but it looks terrible, even without the paint damage and the extra washers that I'll remove asap, so am exploring options. Any suggestions?

That's the stuff! I bought a few rolls a while back, coated the springs in grease then wound the tape over it tightly round the springs starting at the edge of the diff mount right out to the eyes. Squishy stuff but it keeps the springs taut and rust-free where it covers. The alternative was rather expensive leather gaiters which more or less do the same job.

True, but the point I'm making is that under normal road conditions there are more than a few cars that don't overheat. If you want to drive at 90 - 100mph everywhere then even my modern will show higher temperatures. How many GT6 owners do that even occasionally, or so much that they need to modify or upgrade their cars? A few, maybe more than a few, but not all. Do it if you need to, or want to, but at normal road speeds it's not an essential requirement and a well-maintained standard system is up to the job. So yes I was nitpicking but you can't say that ALL GT6 overheat when you really mean that they overheat when driven to extremes. Someone has to stand up for the slowcoaches around here!

60-70 mph is what most of us do, max (I'm saying no more, walls have ears and roads have those speedy things...) Most of us aren't building race cars so if the car doesn't overheat under normal road use, then I'm happy to say it doesn't overheat. One of our local shows - Kilbroney - is a huge event that has really outgrown itself with too many cars for the facilities and getting in is nose-to-tail for two hours, usually in June. Quite a few cars end up at the roadside with their bonnets open, but the GT6 soldiers on, admittedly with the heater going full-tilt and all the windows open...

Plumbers grease-impregnated tape is good stuff; wrap it tightly and it will stiffen the spring too. Just fasten the ends with cable ties or, even better, wire twists.

Just beat me to it! As I was the cause of the concern I was looking for a photo of mine, but of course can't find one when I need one! Roger - if you need a photo of my 1200 Herald block which has been stripped down I can take one for comparison?

I did a couple of rallys in Summer 2018 - it was one of those the half-shaft sheared on the Mk1 which put the car off the road; I drove down and back, around 120 miles, at speeds of 60 on the main roads up to 70 on the dual carriageway; no overheating. I regularly drive to shows or events on the motorway or dual carriageway and the needle will maybe rise to halfway when stopping, but goes down again when moving - nowhere near the red and nothing that I would call overheating. I don't have an oil cooler nor an electric fan. So: mark me down as one of those who says it's not overheating.

Ask 'er indoors about the day I tried to stamp on the mouse and it ran up my trouser leg. I caught it in the area of my inner thigh and battered both mouse and leg black and blue. The leg recovered, though.

Which ones, Nick - the Monroes?

Louvres must help the hot air get out to some extent... but as Doug says they're very pretty.

Build a stable! I have a sign on the garage that says: keep on walking, the food is over there by the horse...

That's an excellent job - well done! Those loose linkages won't have helped the gearshift so you'll find a massive improvement once the kit is fitted. Remember that the bolt points downwards with the nut on the bottom; I have in the past inadvertently fitted it back to front then had to dismantle again.

Glad to hear it! I had to pack the GT6 windows out with more than a few washers, but it works.

They won't go near traps; I know as I've three in the stable and they're still sitting there, baited with peanut butter, chocolate sauce and raspberry jam. I used poison bait which may, or may not, have worked. I cleaned the tack store out at the start of the week and they'd nibbled everything, even the hose pipe was like a sprinkler. Despite clearing the room right down to the bare floor we never saw one but droppings were everywhere - maybe the poison has worked hence the lack of live ones, but no bodies either. They were feeding on the horse feed and nesting in the bales of haylage, but it's all been cleaned out now and the feed is in sealed bins. I used gallons of Jeyes fluid on everything to disinfect it, so it's all fresh and clean but waiting for them to come back. Thankfully the garage is quite far from that and there's nothing edible in it.

Monroe R1543 seems to be for GT6, but no mention of rotoflex; it may be non-roto only. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Monroe-Original-Rear-Shock-Absorbers-Pair-R1543/390973781774?fits=Model%3AGT6&hash=item5b07da770e:g:8rAAAOSwk7ZciUYO I found these Spax versions for rotoflex, part number G464: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spax-Adjustable-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Triumph-GT6-Mk2-Mk3-Rotoflex-68-70/311987463504?hash=item48a3e6e550:g:muMAAOSwETJZ74ka

I've just remembered I've got some of that!! Never thought of it for dashboards so thanks for the heads up. Now, where is it...? I've now got the replacement dash attached to the reupholstered surround and with the speedo fitted in place there's no sign of the damage nor any further movement. I think I've got away with it; the other dash is now put to one side for alterations at a later date. ...and the next instalment of the Devil Making Work for Idle Hands come courtesy of the Estate, where the roof doesn't fit properly, because the body is incorrectly fitted to the chassis due to the bulkhead also being misfitted... it's a long story involving solid mounts that are too big. Lockdown be damned; I'm used to working on my own. Once the car is rolled out from under, the roof will drop onto wheeled trollies and can be moved to one side whilst the lift then removes the rear tub in the same way. Simples!

Thanks Karl, I do have a Dremel; I was thinking of a flap wheel in a drill which would have been brutal and probably blistered the whole thing through excessive heat, but never remembered the gentler touch of the smaller kit. That's something to try.

I have a full tin (about 5 litres? ) of ICL Signal Red bought back about 2008 and never opened; I was hoping it would do for the convertible. It was good paint but quite expensive, so it had better be ok!

I don't have sills fitted at present but this panel should run parallel to the bottom of the treadplate. The sills will be the same distance from treadplate as they are from the lower edge of this panel, an equal gap for the length of the car.

It'll lift off. Put the gears in neutral first, it helps with refitting. Once you've the remote off (do you have a repair kit yet?) the kit becomes self-explanatory as to where everything goes; if on any doubt take photos first. It's very straightforward and really improves the gearchange.