AidanT

Definitely Leggo - The Big Block junior stuff!! Aidan

I will put something together this month If it works I will add a picture to this thread Aidan

Hi there's only the return spring inside the engine bay. I will have a go at fitting one in the foot well then, I have a few springs that might just do the job. Thanks for the advice Aidan

Thanks Clive Its good to know the reason! Would a simpler solution be to fit a spring, in the foot well, that would hold the pedal under light tension even when not being depressed? Aidan

Hi All For ages now my GT6 has suffered from the accelerator pedal vibrating on deceleration (Foot not On Pedal), whether braking or not. I have changed the bushes and Spring but to no avail Note this is the lever type and not a cable assembly Anyone come across this before and found a solution? Thanks Aidan

Lets try again!

Here is the finished article apart from replacement of the screws to match

Pete I purchased Furflex seals from Paddocks about a year ago - and my doors are still quite tight to shut - Do you have a picture of the correct section that should be used for small chassis? IS it different between Triumph cars? as Paddocks 724031M only sell a few different profiles to my knowledge so I have no idea if I have the right one Aidan

Thanks Colin. All my three way switches seem to be a little dodgy so I am hoping to replace the switch mechanisms with the help of Pete Lewis. I will also check the bullet connectors Thx Aidan

Speedograph Richfield will refurbish and repair it. They are on the web

I have been reading up on this subject as I want to get my original wiper motor refurbished. The Haynes manual states that the car was fitted with a single speed motor but J Thomason guide to originality states a two speed. My toggle switch is also has three positions. Can anyone confirm it is in deed two speed? Part of the reason for the refurbishment is I only get one speed wherever the switch is Thanks Aidan

No pictures of the engine bay... missing s load of the standard badges, non-standard interior, no radio or blanking plate, and £20k OOOOOOOOOOOooooo I'm rich! HaHa

Just wanted to add my findings on this. I have also now replaced my voltage stabaliser. I now get the correct fuel readings, well close enough to get to a petrol station before I run out! Shows full when it is filled to.

John I agree with your statement however if this forum is used by others with a similar issue then it will cover more than the use of led bulbs Aidan

Hi all and thanks for the information I have today stripped down the gauge and have found the problem. The original standard bulb had blown so I had replaced it with an LED one. The problem with this is that the led bulb sends light directly ahead of it and not to the sides. The design of the gauge is such that it needs light to come from the side of the bulb. Light directly ahead is just bounced back to the bulb. Anyway light has to go to the top of the gauge and then reflected back as Pete says with where some white paint reflects the light down on to the scale and needle. There was no green filter in mine burnt or otherwise I will take your idea up Pete and add some foil to the white area so more light is reflected and of course revert to a normal bulb or and 'led that has led outputs to the side Aidan

The light bulb is working fine the light just doesn't seem to be getting through. Is there any issue in taking the gauge apart? Aidan

Hi Looking for some advice on dashboard instrument lighting. I have a standard ~Smiths small Fuel gauge which does not seem to illuminate. I have checked the bulb at the rear and this is working but no light would seem to be getting through to the face of the gauge. Does anyone have experience of taking these apart, knows why this is happening or has experienced the same? Thanks Aidan

I went with the suggestion Pete made to me some years ago. A 63. My Gt6 is a fair weather car and I have had no problems starting it after weeks in the garage. Aidan

I also damaged my original choke knob. A tee one. Mick Dolphin was able to supply a replacement @ 2.50. Quite a bargain. Has others I believe.

I did the swap on my 68 Mk1 this year - Pretty easy swap out although if you get a kit, the top bracket you get will be useless as was the fan belt supplied - just adjust the old top bracket and buy the right length belt - mine needed a 1500 mm one Anyway - even though my dynamo was OK, my lights are brighter and I can now fit other electrical ancillaries if and when I want to without any concern

Just completed the modification this weekend and now have four screws in each corner of the center dashbourd section. I have been able to align it perfectly with both side panels and have an even gap. I have been able to get rid of the L section metal bracket from the back All I am waiting for now is the return of my oil pressure / temperature gauge which I have out for refurbishment and illumination Will add a picture when its all done but so far I think it looks good Cheers

Definitely moulded unless you are a carpet fitter or an experienced tailor ! I fitted the cheaper version but wished I had gone for the moulded ones Aidan

Hi Colin I think my dash has sunk in it 48 years ! don't most things ! So the support bracket is an extremely tight fit and is in the way of the flat head bolts attaching the L bracket to the bottom of the metal facia behind the wood. So I have to remove the bracket to get to these bolts. My plan is to add a further two screws to the front Wood in to the the metal facia - I am not sure but I think the Mk3 is fitted this way ?? Aidan

Happy birthday Pete. I hope you have a great day Aidan

Pete Just wanted to add my best wishes and a large thankyou for all the help you have given me from my puchasee of the car and all the isssues since Aidan