Clive

Good news. Guess it may have been ignition, now drying out. Not so god on teh gear linkage, but cheap enough to sort if a faff. Canleys are probably teh best source unless you find genuine NOS

How good a GT6 are you intending to buy, and what mk? I know of a very well sorted GT6 mk3 that has just done 2 1/2k last week without incident, and has a very long term owner. So mechanically very well sorted. Looks good too, but not a showcar.

Aftermarket cams use different valve clearances, up to 22thou... but all dependent on the cam manufacturer. Timing not affected by the weber, may be affected by a cam change. Best advice is to advnace until you get light pinking under load, then back off a smidge. After that it is a day at the rolling road with somebody who plays with springs and advance curves, or a 123, or mapped ignition.

It could be one of the small passages has got blocked. Or a progression hole (though unlikely). Or it may be it has never been right. I parted with a set of Webers as they didn't work well on a particular engine, (I needed 5 progression hole carbs, the ones that came with it were 3 or 4 I think) amd that had a terrible flat spot. A change to Dellortos helped enormously, but they flooded on autosolos. Ho hum. Webers are not terribly complex, you could easily strip and check many jets/tubes etc. Google is your friend....

Bit of both. Remember, these cars lived outside when new, and I used triumphs as everyday cars for 25 years, never garaged. The important bit is decent underbody wax protection (dinitrol or dynax) and regular use. A cover will help, but can cause minor paint damage if they move about., plus you can get condensation. So keeping under a proper roof will certainly help, even a car port will be useful protection.

I think a manual pump should be fine , they are good for 100+bhp. More likely is a jetting issue. Some tuners are naughty and sort WOT but don't pay attention to low rpm. Worth seeking out a decent tuner

Clubs should really not be trying to compete with other sellers. The TDC is great, they get otherwise unavailable parts made or reconditioned to a high standard. Most clubs sell regalia/trinkets, but I have rarely bought via teh club shop as the parts are often sent from Fitchets or Don hoods anyway. However, if the club shop can make enough to emply an extra bod at HQ I guess that is OK. It helps take teh pressure off the other staff.

I too have done a few sets. Only split the calioers once, and that was when I fitted spacers for vented discs. Never had an issue. Just be careful with cleanliness, use brake fluid and red grease, job done. All very simple stuff.

I would take great care here. Chap I know who has built many gearboxes has a good selection of gears, they all look interchangeable, but are not. At least 2, possibly more, gear cuts. On top of that, a brand new "matched pair" of TR input shaft and laygear was not even close..... horrendous noise when turnng by hand.

I would check the piston rings. Very simple, set the pistons a little below the top of the block, pour on some paraffin, see how long it takes to drain. If there is zero compression, I would expect the paraffin to drain pdq past the rings if they are a problem. You could even hone the bores ane re-ring. if there is no wear evident. Head, a good clean up, get it checked at a machine shop. I see you have a tubulat exhaust manifold, so are craving a little extra power. Heralds run a lowish CR, so a hefty skim may be worth doing, with a better cam. But then you are going down a rabbit hole..... If having valve seats done, get 3 angle cuts. It is pretty cheap, and helpful.

it could be the pipe union size. I know some, (possibly all??) dollys use a larger one than the small chassis cars.

It very much depends what you are filling. If a deep dent, shallow scratches etc. As a general purpose filler, I have used "uPol Fantastic" but for very fine marks I use an acrylic 1k stopper.

^^^^ what he said. Move the bottom pans up the shock. Springs looks std, which is not clever a with lowered car. As you have discovered!

Really tricky. Anybody offering tools to lend needs to be able to change their listing themselves, at any time. And contact details are a sticking point. Do you want anybody contacting you to borrow £100 of tools, in the hope you may get them back in the same condition as leant out, if at all? Best would be a club members section of the forum, and make it clear a cash deposit is to be left with the owner. And suddenly it gets complex.... The ideal situation is it is kept informal, organised via local groups. Or people can pop to my place to use my shock/spring compressor.

I would start at 10 degrees, then keep advancing until it pinks under light load. Then back off a smidge. Of course, the distributer advance curve may no be great for the engine. But that would need to be sorted by a rolling road. Likewise needle choice. You may need to find out what compression that cam works with, and what you have. All too easy to have some "good" components, but unless everything is matched teh results may not be great.

I bet that is brake cleaner! (or possibly panel wipe)

I have a ghetto version in brighton which works beautifully....

Hardura I think. Yes, that is the original stuff.

diesel will eventually dry out. But no real fire risk, it is not easy to get it to burn. Old engine oil was the old way of rustproofing, however that can cause issues if it drips onto the road (as can desel on the road) I have scars because of oil/diesel on the road, and one less spitfire.

He never said cheap! But it doesn't take a lot. A litre goes a long way.

Herald estate, or better, courier, spring with a 1" lowering block. As pete says, late swing spring works great if only 2 people.

Try diesel. leave it to soak for a decent amount of time. I would cover it with clingfilm or foil to help stop it drying out. Then a plastic scraper.

I would be popping the pistons and seals out, maybe swapping seals side to side. And check piston diameters, especially if new. Hope you are not getting fingers between the pistons when using compressed air on/in the caliper😬

Ford engine in one of his cars?

I think Mathew means the car is modified, but still as std type trunnions? I would have happily used new std trunnions etc with my car, but the cost difference was tiny to have the trunnionless. So a no brainer.