Clive

Yep, fit it and all will be fine, done it before. You may even be able to use the same fan belt with improved access to no1 spark plug.....

angle grinder...........carefully. better to just soak in warm soapy water for ages. And wear gloves next time.

Silaflex or similar PU adhesive may do the trick. However, back when I fitted a FG bonnet I used fibreglass to bond things on.

malpassi. Get one with the built in filter. Have used the sytec versions, they seem to be OK, but if buying again will get the malpassi. I am assuming this is for carbs as opposed to PI/EFI

Are the rubber bits tubelike? If so they are the same as supplied by many people. However, IIRC original ones have a lip. Bill at Rarebits is the man for all things Herald. may not be as cheap as ebay, but not much more. But he ONLY sells quality stuff, especially seals. I doubt you can return them just because the are not original in style. You can knock the metal lip that the seals push onto back inwards a little using a hammer and bit of wood.

You need a 2 relays (30a automotive) some wire, 17amp is probably nicely over rated without being silly, an inline fuses, again 15amp, or a little less than the cable rating, and some insulated connectors. Google is your friend...

Unless you really want to reuse the screen rubber, use a stanley knife to cut the rubber around the screen. Otherwise it is a case of removing the silver trim, and using your feet and maybe some help (OK, at least one other person) push the screen out Must be a youtube video somewhere... Refitting. Fit rubber to the screen. Bit of thin but strong cord (tent guyline?) around the rubber with a decent crossover at the top. Washing up liquid/water brushed around the rubber may help. Place againt the aperture, somebody pressing the screen into the aperture, and from the inside pull teh cord. It flips the rubber over the metal lip and job done. Sounds easy. Search youtube, really very helpful for allsorts of jobs. Most old cars use the same technique.

A good idea as hologen bulbs are more efficient, expecially if you fit some of the excellent Philips extra bright bulbs. Contrary to what many people think you DO NOT need to fit relays when fitting halogens (as long as you use 55watt bulbs) as they draw the same current as the old sealed beam units. However, if you fit relays you will get even better lighting.

I suggest Gensec, Ben responded quickly and then at length when I contacted him. Not sure you will get that from the Chair.........

John,may I suggest you drop an email to the gensec? And yes, I fully support your point, see my post re TriumphFest. However, the flipside is the TSSC do not do many (any?) competitive events that require MSA membership. Then again, that is maybe food for thought.......

I would take a look at ebay, there are plenty of radiators on there and they usually include dimensions. A picture of the current rad would help? As alternatives go, I used a polo radiator, cost about £20 delivered, on my old zetec powered spitfire. 155bhp, driven hard, no cooling issues. I know people have used the slightly larger golf and possibly passat radiators too in GT6's and they have much improved cooling. Other suitable rads include an aluminium honda civic rad, they are about £60, fitted to a few GT6's. They may require the addition of a separate header tank, (often 5/8 connection to rad bottom hose, and a small 5/16 connection to either the thermostat housing or top of rad, highest point is best) but this addition is a huge improvement over the old rad caps as it constantly bleeds any air out of the cooling system. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-LEON-TOLEDO-OCTAVIA-VW-BORA-GOLF-1-4-1-6-RADIATOR-NEW-2-YEAR-WARRANTY-/281094327308?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4172870c0c http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-CRX-DEL-SOL-VTi-ALLOY-RAD-RADIATOR-/190388767093?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c540e0975

Try this chap. Not local, but a good bloke from what I hear (and those saying it mean something) and good rates. Very good. Plus he owns/drives Triumphs and other classics. http://www.classic-resprays.co.uk/1.html

It can't be that complicated? Any decent welder should be able to do the job, unless there is something extremely difficult about the TR7?? Go on, buy a welder and DIY it. I reckon all the kit will set you back £350, plus whatever the repair sections cost?

good to hear it will soon be finished. Sorry I can't help with pipe routing, I cheated and brought the flow and return to the tank in front of the spring hump....... From memory the factory solution was not exactly "engineered"

And is that a mk3 spitfire (with 2 extra pots) that may be nearing completion????

Moss used to sell them, however if you file the carb bodies a little to elongate the mounting holes they will then bolt on, much neater. You also need to open the manifold up so the intake matches the carbs, otherwise you are wasting your time.

A bit moot, as I saw on th enews the other day that portsmouth-le havre was going to close as it is lossmaking..... A real shame. I suspect next CLM will be newhaven-dieppe.

Sounds like the same issue I had on my Toledo. It meant the shoe was jumping off the handbrake lever. Shocking that rubbish like this actually sells, but I guess until people realise that best is NOT cheapest, and that new is better than old, I guess we are stuck with what we get. Now to calm down and have a cuppa....

Yep, MK2 vitesse cam is a brilliant all-round cam. Or as I (think) I said, CW sells one that has the same timing and a bit more lift. Chris Witor is somebody I would happily trust with 6 cylinder stuff, and not often used by people in this club. Worth looking at his website. He is a quality rather cheap sort of chap.

Where are you located? If you went to CCK I assume you may be sussex area? If so you should drop in to a monthly meeting. There is a selection of different cars that may be there, but a wealth of knowledge too. (no, not me......I just went ford engine!) As to mods, steve above is correct. Get the wrong (stage 2 possibly, again there is NO definition of that) and you can end up with a car that is a dog to drive on the road and needs revving hard to get it to go, something people THINK they want, but when it comes to it they are hard to live with. That is from personal experience..... A few extra BHP at 5000rpm usually means a whole lot of torque is lost at 2000rpm. You probably need to drive a well sorted standard GT6 to see what that should be like. You may be pleasantly surprised. If I was building a GT6 for touring/road use, I would look at a very standard specification, keeping the strombergs (they are as good as SU's, if you change to sprint larger SU's again you will be gaining top end power at the expense of "normal driving") and using the MK2 GT6 cam and matching head, which you may have already. But really, find a std GT6 before spending large amounts of cash on something you may not like. Now, if you want a car for trackdays etc, certainly go the whole hog,.....

Personally I am not a fan of wire wheels. Beside the cleaning issues and that they are floppy (seriously) they can be horrendous if the splines are worn. I know people who have had wires come off the car when driving.... so before you think about buying used wires, check any have no wear in the splines. What looks a good deal is rarely so. I am not usually one to advocate serious spending, but if you really want wires, buying new is often the cheapest way.

From memory, 218225 is the head fitted to later GT6 and 2000 engines, and shared with the 2.5 engines. To sort the issue of the 2.5 combustion chamber in the head, the 2000 type engines got domed pistons. So if you pop a std Vitesse head on there you will get very high Compression. Not a good idea. You could get round that by fitting flat pistons. All rather expensive for very very little gain unless you are after a performance engine. In your position I would be leaving alone. If a problem occurs with the head, get an unleaded conversion done on it (replace exhaust seats with unleaded ones) If you want to fiddle, you could fit a warmer cam, I suspect the engine "probably" has the late 18 58 cam, so a swap to a vitesse cam, or possibly CW's special that shares the same timing as the vitesse one and has a little more lift, If the issue is that engine feeling strained (you can should be good for way more than 70, much nearer the 100 flat out) a proper tune up may be in order. Start by making sure fuelling and timing are all correct, that is not just the correct needles and static/idle timing, but ideally a session on the rolling road. If you feel like the car needs to be more relaxed, fit an overdrive (or horror of horrors , a 5 speed conversion)