Clive

And it is a handy place to store the wheels. I recently had my Dolomite up on tall stands, just over 2ft. And yes, I had 2 stacks of wheels/tyres, one towards each end. People forget that axle stands are vulnerable to lateral movements, and I quite like staying alive with all limbs intact. Likewise, doing som ebreaks on tegh wifes 22 year old MX5, a wheel under each sill, and an axle stand. Plus teh trolly jack was just touching the diff case. I try to mitigate risks...

I have no idea! I can check with a friend who is about to go home, but he can report back after checking his car. Cheers Clive

That reminds me of this

There are several 6 cylinder cars with megajolt or EFI, so it can be done. Nick Jones would be helpful here. I used megajolt on my old zetec spit, and it is fitted to the MK3 I have (although that engine is coming out complete). It is easy enough to work with, although the EDIS for a 6 cylinder will be a tad tricky to find at a reasonable price.

Yep, I think there was a magazine article at that time. But it is something like the 3rd or 4th leaf down, it flattens the spring a bit. Better option is a courier spring (stronger and much flatter). Or as Johny says, get the spring reset by a proper spring company (they often refuse new springs as the steel is not the correct grade, but OE ones they should have no issues with) The simple answer of course is to just use a lowering block....

Not sure my spitfire engine is optimally tuned, I keep tweaking it... But you are spot on about not fiddling. IF anybody wants to modify their engine, they really need to know all the implications first. An the fact many things are just a royal PITA (eg swapping air filters, the case here). Believe it or not, I reckon keeping a Triumph engine standard, or using standard parts, is a good idea. (ie if you want a hotter cam, use the cam/head/distributer off the best engine in the range) so it is all factory stuff. Electronic ignition is good, and admittedly programmable is better IF done well. It is just like adjustable shocks. A dreadful idea for the vast majority of people. Then again, teh cheap black shocks are not great (though seem better than what they used to be about 10 years ago)

A hot Hydroxide wash will eat aluminium too. Probably quicker than acid. But again, they should have known.....

I doubt it very much. No way would anybody make that type of prop. I think Canley props (made by Dave mac I think) all have sliding joints, The strap drive is universally hated. I expect Steves prop is a shortened herald prop.

Quite a number of heralds had them. Dreadful things if they go out of balance....

I have the same opinion on the later spitfires too. I just have my CT sunstrip, and like Colin, a cap for keeping the sun out of my eyes.

Bearing in mind the issues with flange sizes, balance and the worries of a worn sliding joint, a new one may not be a daft idea. Certainly compared to the cost of having new ujs, shortened and balanced.

Spitfire I - IV with Overdrive 38" 0.97m Spitfire 1500 38" 0.97m so the implication that a single rail non od box is the exact same length as 3 rail non od. Midget never had an OD box. From experience a vitesse non OD prop is indeed an inch too long for a single rail OD box. As I needed the car for work the next day I spaced the engine/box forward an inch,

I think a vitesse non od prop is the correct length. Complicated by the fact the gearbox uses the 3/8 bolts, and the original 4.11 diff 5/16 at a different PCD. Or have you (wisely) changed the diff? Changing a UJ on a prop will likely put it out of balance. Swapping a flange and UJ even worse. (and yest on a dolomite I cahnged all 3 UJs and no issues with balance, it seems the small chassis cars are very sensitve to prop balance)

All the rev counters are teh same, 4 or 6 cylinder. So thay are not rare. Generally if you twist the rev counter and teh needle moves freely, it is OK. Or at least not seized.

Have you checked or swapped the flexible hoses? Has this problem always been there or started after fitting all the new stuff? Is this single line brakes or split? Lastly, a local bought new drums for his vitesse. Obviously out of round, sent back and eventually sourced some NoS ones. So new brake drums are now a real issue.

On teh herald/vitesse chassis I have welded around the diff, I have always drilled a 10mm hole at teh lowest point. This allows a good wax protection to be sprayed in, and any water to drain out. On teh tub, I used to check the car after heavy rain, and if I found puddles, frill a 6mm hole at the deepest point.

Try washing powder, that is a much stronger detergent. Mix it into a paste and it will dissolve tarmac, and even fibreglass resin if it hasn't set.

There is no definitive answer, as the engine/distributer/fuel are all different to when the cars were built. Start at 10 degrees, then keep adding more advance and driving until it pinks. Then back a smidge. That will be the "best" timing you can achieve without serious fiddling with teh advance curve etc.

If you are bored sometime, check out who ultimately owns virtually every tyre manufacturer in the world...... a few exceptions, or were when I looked a couple of years ago. As Peter says, it is not where something is made, but all about the standards it is made to. China can make stuff as good as anybody, but also they can turn out stuff at any price point.

Did you like teh Galaxy? I ask as I drove one in teh states a few years ago. A friend had one from new (69 or 70 I think) and loved it. But I rated it as possibly the worst car I had driven, zero steering feel, handled like a boat adrift on the sea and probably mighty quick. The bit I did like was the bench setas, there were 6 of us in it no problem at all. The other dreadful vehicle which I rate as bad was a series 1 landrover, but that was down to its total lack of comfort. I understand they are useful, but at a cost!

Some things I need: A late spit swingspring with the mounting box Pair of spitfire radius arms for short driveshafts (mk 1-early mkIV) mk3 or IV airbox Possibly a pair of herald/spit driveshafts complete. mk3 spitfire rear bumper irons Please send me a message if you can help.

It is extremely rare t find a set of proper comparison power/torque curves. They do a before, chuck filters/manifolds etc on, tune it to perfection then show the difference. Really you want to see is the car fully tuned in std form, then add things one at a time, but tuning to match. Then you could see where the improvements happen. Of course, that is expensive top do and may not help sell as much tat. There were proper articles years ago by John Thomason. He tuned a spit in std spec, put a sports exhaust on and retuned, then added a manifold and tuned again, showing where the benefits were. He did the same for a single HS4 vs a pair on a spitfire (tiny difference in power). Years ago I took part in a magazine article for one of teh magazines. My "thrown together" 2.5 engine made 2bhp less but a little more torque than a jigsaw 2.5 "bells and whistles" engine with triple strombergs. All a tad embarassing for the owner who had spent a fortune with jigsaw.

The same power and mixture can be achieved with the std filter. At 3000rpm on the open road a spitfire may be making 30bhp. The filter will make no difference at all. The throttle will be a little more open with a paper filter, but the power and economy will be identical (as long as the needle profiles are spot on). The same applies right up until the paper filter reaches its limit. The paper filter just needs a little more pedal.

No, it allows more airflow across the entire range, but the paper filter can match that right up until the paper filter is maxxed out, at which point the K+N has the advantage. But because the K+N does allow more airflow across teh range, it needs a different needle. So the only time the K+N has the advantage is at very high rpm and going for max power. Which precisely 3% of triumph drivers actually try. (I made the 3% up, but it probably isn't far off accurate)

If you consider what a free flow filter does for a moment, most people will realise they are a waste. Teh only place they will add to a cars performance is at maximum airflow, above what the paper filters will flow. So we are talking 6000rpm? With teh added complication that the fuelling is altered right the way across the rev range, which is not great for the vast majority of people. And the bigger downside is you are loosing the cold air intake.... So yes, I run a K+N cone filter on my injected car. But I also have an AFR gauge, so it is tuned appropriately, and automatically tweaks the fuelling as I drive. Setting a carb car up on a rolling road is rather harder, and requires somebody with lots of experience.