Clive

Tricky bit is getting teh right size. Try using a drill bit to work out the hole size. I reckon ebay will be your friend for the roll pins.

No that is the upper column bush, nothing to do with the self cancelling. Win has it correct, there should be a couple of roll pins in the boss. The system is massively better than the earlier type as the indicators cancel in the right place as long as the steering wheel is level.

Class C breaker for motors, B is std. And yes, it needs to be on a 16A breaker, unless the compressor says a 20A supply is OK. Definately not on a 32A circuit. But I have had my SIP 3HP running on a 13A plug since bought, no issues.

Spray outside, you get a lot less crap in the paint. Just did my dolomite, painted the roof yesterday. That was under a carport, stapled polythene on the underside of the roof, still got some stuff in it. A garage will need entirely covering in polythene, stuff will be in every nook and cranny. But you can made extractor fans using car radiator fans. They run off 12V, so a car battery and a big charger are all you need. Make a hardboard, or even (several layers thick) corrugated card to fit in a window and take the fan. If you can scrounge more, use them. BTW I have had my sip belt drive compressor for about 10 years or so, bought off a chap who had used it to spray his kitcar. Good as gold, apart from a starter capacitor. Been very happy with it. 3hp, 50L tank. And it happily ran off a long extension lead when I did my spitfire vbefore I got my garage wired up.

Part no 128002 https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/steering-rack-bush-inside-tube-2

Sounds normal to me. You would expect t to increase a bit with oil, and if all even that is good.

Probably! BUT do not get the buckle with the long wire stalk. Absolutely hopeless in a spitfire. You want the buckle with either the short metal bracket or on a short length of seat belt. I have the metal bracket type in my late spit, and fixed belts with adjustable length buckle in my MK3

No (except really early diffs) but some people have drilled/tapped the case. There is another thread on here somewhere about it, just the past few days.

The mkIV spit works lke that, 2 position light stalk, the dash switch is off/sidelights/main lighting

In all hensty, I would get a brand new prop made. Just make sure they use quality UJs

It has been a while since I used celly, for a reason. Just sprayed my Dolomite with 2k (for the 2nd time, first paint would not shine at all, poor batch I think, but the Jawel paint I have just used is fine) 2K is MUCH easier to work with, but that doesn't help Paula! Thinking about it, with rattle cans I would probably use 1200 before painting for the final flatting, as the paint will not cope with any scratches. What may be worth getting is a tube of acrylic stopper. Very fine surface filler, brilliant for stonechips and small imperfections. I use this stuff https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125141896200?hash=item1d2309cc08:g:BU0AAOSw1CRiBOnY

Leave it for month to harden up. Hopefully you flatted it with 800 or fine before painting? Once hard, an dhopefully any sinkage has happened, flat with 1500 or finer, with a bit of soap (as in a bar of soap) rubbed onto the paper. It lubricates and softens the abrasive. I am guessing you only got a few coats on? if so, don't go mad otherwise you will go through the paint. Once flatted just enough, use G3 compound to remove the scratches. Then a final polish.... I find aerosols work so much better when nice and warm. Plus really important to shake them for ages, get the ball bearing moving and then a few more minutes of shaking to get the paint correctly mixed up.

Any J type OD will be stronger than the D type. The J type for a GT6 is a bit mythical. But the vast majority of J type boxes will be the ones built up by Kippings and canleys. And a fair number from early Dolly 1850s, though these are still weak the same as Gt6 and Vitesse boxes.

bulb to get it roughly right, if you must. But your ears are the best tool. Set the timing, drive, keep advnacing until it pinks. Back it off a smidge

It is tricky to feel the crownwheel/pinion backlash, it is always a tiny tiny amount. The rest is in the actual diff, usually worn washers. What type of prop is it? Solid, strap drive or even sliding joint?

I think it would have been a poor decision by the dealer to fit the old plates. When you buy a new car, you expect it to look new, and that would have included the new style number plates. After all you want everybody to know you have a brand new car. But in all honesty, I don't worry about it.

both were legal until the end of 1972. (until a few years ago when somebody cocked up and allowed any historic vehicle to display black plates, but they finally closed that loophole so now pre 1980 vehicles can legally display black plates) But as always I bet the dealers etc all knew the change was coming, but waited until the actual date before doing anything. Nothing changed on that front!

Seems reflective plates were introduced in 1968. It could be that the dealerships took a while to sort the new style plates, and I think back then you got charged extra for number plates, seat belts etc so the old style may have been a smidge cheaper? Who knows!

When the shock is angled onto the original (spitfire etc) mounting point, it effectively reduces the effectiveness. Using the extension brackets are halfway. Vertical the shocks are most effectice (stiffer?) I have a rotoflex setup on my spitfire, but CV shafts, means I can use the original chassis points. But mine is not vague. I would be wary of not having full droop available, that could cause an issue if it runs out of travel. It won't happen under normal circumstances, it may happen when other things start to go wrong, making it all worse. You could make some new extension brackets to suit the shocks, that may work. Otherwise there is s beetle shock which is just about identical to OE rotoflex shocks. As to setting shocks up, start soft (1/4?), and gradually harden until you go too far. Then back a bit. It is rather all trial and error, which is why adjustable shocks are often pointless. You will know when they are too hard, the car will get skittish on cornering.

https://www.tippersvintageplates.co.uk/

Re number plates. Any new car sold from teh late 60's on would have had yellow and white plates, nobody would have used the old fashioned silver on black. I like this ype, just looks right However, if you want pressed ali ones, avoid the cheaper type that look just that. Tipper plates are very good, but not budget friendly. (My dolly has tipper plates from 1980 when the car was made, lovely patina)

I doubt it is fuel starvatio if it won't rev beyond 4000rpm when stationary. What happens if you pull the choke out? does that help (indicating weak mixture) But indeed the distributer is the most likely issue. A simple strobe light will tell you if the distributer is advancing. My other thought is an issue with the electronic ignition, maybe gap too big?

See my post on the matter. Next year the TSSC/TRR/MGCC event is at MG Live. And the Standard Triumph Forum (the Triumph umbrella group) may well hold their event there too. Which is music to my ears.

The filter is directional, but not a one way valve. These days there is a lot to be said for (Huco) electric fuel pumps....

It seems there are plans afoot for an event in June at Silverstone. Joint TRR/TSSC/MGCC with the STF members invited as guest clubs (I found this from the TDC where we were asked to vote) The event is also in conjunction with MG Live, so track racing and lots happening. As it happens to be the MG 100th anniversary too.