Clive

I believe the Silverstone event will be used as the STF marque day. Some clubs wanted the carpark at Gaydon......Hmm, not really the place to celebrate 100 years of Triumph (and MG) I wouldn't count on a Triumph race. I am thinking that teh MGs have afull race program. They may capiotalise on teh punters and do some parade laps (yawn) The problem with silverstone is it is a big, fast track. You really want a proper powerful car, mine isn't up to it really, but soem of the corners are great.

I believe it has now been let out the bag that TSSC are attending the Silverstone event. "All MG and Triumph classic car clubs are coming together to celebrate 100 years of both marques in 10th & 11th June 2023 for a spectacular event at Silverstone Circuit. More details to follow but reserve the date in your diary." And as the TRR ad (quoted above) says, all teh clubs will be there. Amen to that. The survey had to be simple, the more complex and detailed teh questions, the worse the results become. Here the management want to get a feel for what members want. And the number of responses may indicate how many are actually interested at all. (by extrapolation, as always there will always be some who will just turn up and don't have an online presence at all) I just hope the data gathered is helpful. I get the feeling there is going to be an awful lot of people who want to say what they DON'T want rather than what they do. Something no more than 50 miles from home. Nice Hotels. Cheap accomodation. Race circuit. But want to take my dog. Cheap entry. But lots to do. I could go on..... As for me, I am going to Silverstone. And again for the Classic. Probably Spa at some point next year, and I fancy a proper European jaunt with some good Alpine passes. Maybe Scotland too. And a few trackdays. Yes, I want to get out and enjoy using my Triumphs.....

No reason at all, but be aware that: 1. Clutch plate needs changing to a dolomite 1300 type. This assume you have a diaphragm clutch, not the early coil spring type. 2. OD switcjes on gearknobs can be an issue, the column type is more reliable and easier/cheaper to source. 3. The 1500OD box is longer that the 3 rail types. You will need a custom length propshaft. With big flange at the front, small at the back to fit your existing diff. There is a "modifcation" (bodge) I had to do. Space the engine forward an inch, then you can use a vitesse non-od prop, flange size issue still there. (I did the swap at the weekend, needed the car for work on the Monday. But it worked fine, I did many thousands of miles, as did subsequent owners)

Nope, you cannot drop teh piston out from the bottom as the crank will be in the way. And I am not at all sure even with teh crank out it is possible, and if you would get the piston back in (ring compressor needs a flat block to work) Now, no difference with the oil added? That should improve things considerbly if the rings are the issue. So it sounds like a valve problem to me. A leakdown test may be worth doing (I did a ghetto version with my compressor at 40 psi, made a plug adaptor. You listen for where the air is escaping)

hemp and boss white (which seems to be a fine clay mixed with some sort of oil?)

From Brise maybe. However: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115560588585?hash=item1ae7f2a529:g:09UAAOSwV0lgZYLG&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoPkcUYLJ0ERmaJCF5saC2BQqBs5lazjqEejMeWgLtU%2FprVb0%2Bj6u56V64A4qtW%2BAKildiD4YDHIvKpmT2LTun5YXlDLxiDgfBRpEw2YMRoGAQ0TpDK0rfYUC%2FgQLICb1FeMMUXTflXq5oUwScptlnFpieVWfO4Zeecayyq%2FzY5ByFjzH8RL%2BMPOX%2BpgJpgJhKvnETw6jXvoYtPkJhjJ3jMY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-r-5uf4YA

That will be about £260 delivered. You can get the 40A version for £80ish. You do need a plug and a ring terminal, new belt and an hour to fit it.

I think most of the new "lucas style" alternators are variable in quality. The parts to fix them are similarly problematic, a friend had his one repaired with a new recitier for it to fail withing a few months. The reliable answer is a brand new, proper brand alternator. The Brise ones are excellent, but the baby 40A they supply is just a Denso. And 40A will power a car no problem, having doen the RBRR twice with one. That is 48hrs nonstop, half with lights on, sometimes wipers, heater gently wafting. Never an issue, so 70A is massive unless you have a hefty extra current draw. New denso 40A are usually around £100 on fleabay, sometimes less. Not difficult to fit.

Yes, the pad material! Be aware that Mintex sell a variety of pad materials, the ones that are about £15 are a modern material that really work best with a servo. the 1144 pad material will cost over £40. Cheapest is usually demon tweaks via ebay... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302357818474?epid=8017013029&hash=item4665ee2c6a:g:4uQAAOSwBmti0RCU&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCAysVXPOaXqFrPYqO%2BQuJcmupBaoIv9c47qZumVbXeBmkff1p7YFU1ixoN96y43%2FCVL9KCHCAxkjMzferv5YEmBpujphPs06HL%2BHdO9NPNfN1LaYKaq0Kr5%2FZu57kjRXfqWdi4kcJfpVbwII%2FZvGUmydwtZoy6QXXKIjoSSXP6eDaW9IqAOIXeKMCWPGibe4oIAlioJnT7PEyG0t35jVcc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4rP99v4YA

A friend who has a TT (rural house, so no supplier earth, he has earth rods in the ground at the front and back of the house) He "currently" has a 500mA RCD fitted, which I guess was the standard for the time. Thesedays, a 100mA time delayed RCD is the first part of a house on a TT system, but 30mA RCDs (not time delayed!) should be fitted in the main consumer unit(s) 30mA is the level where it is unlikely to cause any harm to a human. I have managed to find a 100mA RCBO to fit my consumer unit to feed my garage board. That can then be fitted with a 30mA RCD, so if any issues the garage one will trip and save me the walk to the understairs cupboard. And the supply to the garage will still have RCD protection. I could just use a 10mA RCD in the garage, but I would probably get a lot of nuisance trips.

The problem is modern pad material is designed to be used with servo assisted cars. The original asbestos pads are fantastic, and teh mintex 1144 pad material is pretty similar in performance. The other option is to fit a remote servo, which can make drivinga Triumph much less different to people used to modern cars. A servo kit is about £70...

You have a drill.....

I would strongly advise doing all the hydraulic seals on the car, from masters/slaves through to calipers and wheel cylinders. They are going to be pretty gunged up. Not a terribly expensive job, but may take a day or so. Then good service, general check over, set of new tyres plus new proper fuel hose and see how it gets on with an MoT would be my suggestion. Then maybe a wash,claybar and polish.

Alex, I know pete has wisely suggested using a small bit of pipe/tube to extend the nose of the pop rivit gun, but I took the knukledragger approach and filed the tip which means it fits in most of the awkward places

torrington bearing has a thin outer shell. Care needed so that oil can still get in. ie bearing shallow enough that the existing drilling works, or drill a new feed.

Possibly. There may be some other things to change? but as mentioned elsewhere, it would be a good idea to get the first motion shaft machined out and use a big tipped mainshaft. The canley adapter plate may be machined to be dual purpose?

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=overdrive-adapter-plate But by the time you have found all te other bits and bobs, the MX5 conversion looks good value especially as it is VERY strong and all new. Downside it doesn't fit the vitesse/GT6, down to tunnel size and gearstick position. Have a look at Nicks DIY conversion on the sideways forum.

Be aware that adapter plate is for a big saloon/stag/TR/sprint box. I have doubts it will fit a small chassis gearbox. You need the thinner adapter used on early dolly 1850s and countless conversions to fit a J type to your gearbox (I need one too, I have a spitfire 3 rail j type gearbox here, apparently reconditioned, but no OD/adapter/remote etc

Bars leak on fleabay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134229392326?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=134229392326&targetid=293946777986&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006812&poi=&campaignid=17116423086&mkgroupid=134652533165&rlsatarget=pla-293946777986&abcId=9300856&merchantid=6995734&gclid=CjwKCAjwv4SaBhBPEiwA9YzZvCcN1d3aUZQJ0L7houVIsFeqUziqj8o0HdM-1fgYYnOE3L8IsRtkDRoCRg4QAvD_BwE Holts radweld easily available, even from toolstation. And halfords have a few similar products. I have always carried a pack of ce-lit, it is very good in my experience. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234288356661?epid=854387780&hash=item368cac9d35:g:BFwAAOSwVjNhkoo0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAkKhjGYQha4eqCQUtTNrKyrxaQQ8RexKu8mX5dnoVyC4sm5oif91g3ddPM5%2BuiZdqzdy9gttmJTkW8AXc9jqMCgmALmbInAu6i87omQSf%2FnzgUZI6PYecPjGSwvVe0pxNeRuXHEKgdNsWogg7wDTm0tFW9C5%2BwX5yg2OSfDHipZcwKpTPVHvMVIinGkIFCV1%2B6A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR77Jw473YA

do the back first. Pop the hood header rail on top of screen frame so it sits a little up (that will enable more tension) Mark the centre of the windscreen and hood. Pull the hood tight and roughly mark the front edge with chalk. Then use spray contact adhesive (ideally) on the inside of the hood and the frame header. Let it dry, and I use greaseproof paper leaving a gap in the middle. Pulled teh hood good and tight, stuck it in the middle. Using an assistant, pull/stick down one side then the other, removing the greaseproof paper as you go. I would then check the hood fit before going any further. It will peel off if needed so you can start again. Make sure the hood is hot and floppy, it really helps. I use spray adhesive from toolstation, works really well.

That is my concern. Easiest is to use the existing gearbox, and using a morris minor clutch plate (I think) nd see how it goes. In fact, it will go very well, but run out of revs at 70.

Very true, but changing a prop flange will probably put it out of balance, and swapping a quarter shaft takes a few minutes.

May I suggest popping along to your local Triumph meeting. Ask around there, you will get good local advice. If you get really lucky, there will be somebody there who carries out work from home, often a better option. They may even be happy to show you the ropes, or work with you. I know somebody in east sussex, and another near bournemouth , both of whom I trust to do great work. But they are often a little booked up as it is not their main job. However, there will be many others out there...

If you use the single rail box, a vitesse non od (or big saloon) propshaft will fit However, the herald uses small flanges on the gearbox and diff, single rail is big flange. A swap to 3.63 diff would sort that, but the driveshafts have the same issue. The very late 4.11 diffs are handy as you can swap the quarter shafts with the 3.63 fixing that issue. As you have noted, you need to swap the sump (I think) but any hearald/spit sump gasket will fit. It will also give you teh chang-ce to easily inspect the crank bearings, do not pass up the opportunity. I like a 1500 herald. I have had a few, but I have always kept the 4.11 and used overdrive. Makes a very quick little car, still cruise at 70+ all day.

The biggest downside is the cost🤐 For a complete conversion that is guaranteed good (as opposed to "I was told it was good when I bought it") expect to pay £1000, probably double that for a reconditioned setup. Yes, cheap od boxes do turn up, but not often, and usually unknown condition. You pays your money etc. a 1200 herald should be OK with an OD on the level/mild inclines, but may struggle going up anything more in OD top. However, my experience says OD is a fantastic bit of kit if you drive any distance. No use around town, but good A road through to motorways it is a godsend, everything is much more relaxed. However, with the costs involved, do decide if it would present value to you.