Clive

The vitesse housing is different as the rad hose and rad are different. The hose may "fit" but probably not well. And teh vitesse and saloon engine are basically identical, just a few tiny differences, you really want the correct vitesse ancillaries/parts. Rimmers seem to have them.... but not cheap.

Results in various layouts available here http://www.mcsrallyresults.co.uk/MCSMATP2016.html John, there is a TR4 (car 133) listed as well. I don't remember seeing compete, but it came in at 81 overall position. I am having a think about this type of competition, but I need some more tracktime and big autosolo to improve my technique. I probably also need to sit down when I find out how much it will cost me.....

They used to be a tenner for a good set.... 15" trims? they will be TR5. Good sets fetch huge money. BTW same trims used on Vitesse and (I think??) 2000 saloon. Double check the saloon fitment, may be a different attachment.

I could post the pic of a friends hand he cut badly using a grinder without a guard. Lucky to retain his index finger, needed a couple of nerves reattaching, plenty of stitches and they reckon he will be lucky. Should get about 90% of function back again.

Good units. The aldon can be bought from Pertronix (who make them) via Retrorockets site, pay in $ but mine came posted from Surrey!

MK2 GT6 https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/600x315/0d/34/05/0d3405db8021ade5198e57abae34b18e.jpg MK3 GT6 http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/uploads/cars/triumph/827116.jpg on the mk2 the wheel looks like a normal hubcap steel wheel under the rostyle hubcap. Should be 4.5 j (indeed so should a mk3, but they have all the holes in the actual rim)

having had cheapies I bought a Makita a couple of years ago, and it is a delight to use i9n comparison. I have also used a bosh, belongs to a friend who is a pro mechanic. Nice bit of kit, a easy to handle. And he has had it a good few years giving it plenty of abuse. That would probably be my choice. Cheap from screwfix too: http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-blue-professional-gws-600-professional-4-angle-grinder-240v/10664?kpid=10664&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Tools-_-Shopping%20-%20Tools&gclid=CNzR_-uEgs0CFfUV0wodJSsBOQ

It will be a std thread. I took a distributor down to the local fixing specialist and they sorted me for a few pennies in the charity box. Can't remember the thread though, sorry.

Jack up the front of the car, take out the blanking plug from the VL (above the trunnion, facing the shockers) and insert a "grease" nipple. Fill a suitable "grease" gun with EP90 oil, and fill the trunnions with oil until it overflows from the top. I wonder if anybody will be offering an oiling service at Triumphfest? It was really handy at Leatherhead (and I presume Adam still does it there) A few quid and job done!

Needle valve(s) not shutting off? floats not set correctly? Have you removed the pistons and dampers (take great care to keep them as matched pairs) and checked the jet height? Start point is normally 2 turns down from the jet being flush. Have you checked needles correctly fitted in the dampers?

You say you can hear the solenoid click when cold, but how about when hot? If that is when the problem happens, you need to do your checks then. It is "probably" oil level or electrical. Though don't rule out a faulty solenoid.... A multimeter or simple test lamp will be your friend.

You really need a GPS/satnav to do an accurate check, at a steady speed ideally at 30, 40 etc etc. My 30% chance of being right is that you have a 3.27 diff but a speedo calibrated for a 3.89. There are places that can recalibrate your speedo. But first, check your diff ratio and speedo numbers. Changing the tyre size to 175/70 will increase the inaccuracy by about 1mph at 30....you would nned to fit something like 10inch mini wheels to get the reading corrected!

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/ use that and input you data. It will give you an idea of what is what. The tyre size is a little smaller than std, so yes will over read, but your inaccuracy is much more significant (ie your combo will be about 2-3% out, but speedo is 20+% out! Possible problems: Incorrect speedo/diff combination. The speedo is paired to the diff ratio on most Triumphs, and over the cars history lots of stuff may have got swapped about. Does the car have overdrive? if so what type. J types need the correct speedo gear, just about every one I have had has over read speed. By about 20%, both in cars I have rero-fitted it and those that came with it. You need to investigate what diff ratio you have, what overdrive (if any) and the speedo identification numbers. Report back with that info!

I would think the bonnet won't shut. Mighty close on the low type vitesse/GT6 manifold, and that is with short dashpot HS6 carbs.

Hmm, but has it been retro-fitted with a j type from a dolly 1850?? or a kippings conversion? Who knows...

J type you can't, oil will pour out. (please let that be correct, I am starting to doubt myself!)

Put the front on ramps or jack it up? Or a lower oil tray. May be easier. Or once you have undone the plug a 1/4 turn, use your fingers. Anyway, back to the question.You will get oil spillage from the filter, but no more than you would anyway.

Don't get me started on politicians. They have a nasty tendency to say what they think people want to hear, rather than have the b4lls to say and do what is long-term best for us. Bah. As for the ones who have never had a proper job, they are just idealists. I guess a minimum requirement would be to have had X number of years working in whatever field (not important what) and good references plus been successful. Then an apprenticeship as local councillors (two edged sword, some learn how to be incompetent there, others are fantastic) and only then be considered for higher offices. What an old git I am becoming. The lab work was a lifetime ago, the fresh pasta was a new product from a new supplier. And the troublesome fact was the pasta had been sold by the time I submitted my results (it took 3 days to grow the little bacteria on the agar plates) Initial results were horrific! An order of magnitude or 2 higher than acceptable to sell (but it had been!) but to be fair after a few weeks they got the results down to "safe" levels, and no reports of problems. I guess the safe limits were very safe. And after the samples from the production line workers were analysed(!) it turned out they generally needed to improve their hygiene. Grubby bunch. You would want to wash your hands if you met one and shook their hand. These days things will be much better. But I do worry about the obsession with anti-bac sprays, over-cleanliness and so on. A ticking timebomb that is bound to lead to more super-bugs that we won't be able to "fix"

What is the max pressure it will read, you will want approx 200psi. Our cars read up to 140ish (or 10bar) And a non-return valve too. A vacuum gauge only has a max vacuum of 1 bar/14psi.....

You could try contacting Mintex? or one of their representatives. Or maybe Garth in the club shop. The trouble is that few people really appreciate the benefits of using better brake linings and are willing to pay for them Another alternative is to fit rear discs. Been done using MGF discs, and callipers (though I would be tempted to use VW callipers as they are alloy and much lighter if I were to be doing it again)

That would be unworkable. They would need to take a sample and send it off to a lab for analysis. That would cost more than the actual MoT. I suspect the MP knew nothing about asbestos testing ( I used to do it for a job when I worked in an analysis lab, in between testing waitrose fresh pasta and the local tap water on behalf of the county council ) Garage workers are expose dto far greater dangers on a daily basis. Used engine oil is VERY nasty. Dusts of any sort are a health hazard. Many of the organic solvents are terrible. Remember when they used Benzine on burns? And yet we are all told to be paranoid about some things that in actual fact are harmless in the real world. I did test on mercury, even testing over a mercury bath I got zero readings for mercury vapour, but the H+S rules are very strict on it. And remember fish and chips wrapped in newspaper? Yep, the print was carcinogenic, probably still is. There are nasty things all around us all the time. Including the Sun...though that also helps with vitamin production.

Quite normal My understanding is that the butterflies shut, stopping virtually all air entering the engine. Lots of vacuum pulls excess fuel into the engine, and some of that ignites in the exhaust, or sometimes as it leaves the exhaust. My old car on dellortos was great at that, go down a country lane at night with the overhanging trees, and lift off. Nice flame out the back easily visible lighting up the tree canopy, accompanied by the obligatory pops/bangs. Not that I condone this behaviour of course (well, not in a built up area) The later SU carbs had an over-run valve in the butterfly to help stop all this. Spoilsports.

If you insist, I shall ask the question. How many people contracted asbestos related disease from brake dust over the all the decades it was fitted to every single car, lorry and motorcycle in the UK? And also that (at an estimate) about 50% of triumphs still have asbestos clutches fitted? How many people just take a gearbox off and don't wash the bellhousing and parts within off carefully? I do. The only info I could find in my recent research indicated a handful of garage mechanics worldwide (mainly brake fitters who did the job day in day out) contracted the disease. Please, I won't to be drawn into a useless dispute. All I am saying is that asbestos brake linings are superior to modern versions. That is a fact. And as an aside, if a few simple precautions are taken then the risk of asbestos related disease is negligible, as in approaching zero. The risk of being hit by lightning is greater.

But the point is 95% of current brake linings are nowhere near as good as the old asbestos ones. So a simple upgrade is to go back in time to when asbestos brakes were fitted. The nearest (and probably a tad better) lining is mintex 1144. I agree overbraking the rear is dangerous. But I suspect the OP has upgraded the fronts. And there is a huge array of good front pads, but the rears are often forgotten about. Of course, the other option is to fit vitesse/GT6 rear brakes.