Clive

Get the best of both words, a synthetic oil with a high viscosity...... But only worthwhile if you do drive the cars hard, most don't.

Indeed, and I used some silicone sealant when putting back. The wood wedges etc all stayed attached to the alloy block. If you are doing this, worth getting hold of a helicoil and beefing up the threads. That should be what was done in the first place at the factory.

10mm not a lot, but you could swap the computer shock/springs over, that should help diagnosis as to it being springs or chassis. You say the side with pos camber also has loads of shims at the bottom wishbone. You do mean the tyre leans out at the top? Just double checking. If so, that is a worry. It can be overcome using wishbone brackets with extra long studs and even more shims (or ideally a single thick shim) but something is not quite right. Getting the geometry correct transforms the handing of these cars, from being twitchy and jumpy to sure-footed and stable. If the tyres are too wide, 165/70 may be ideal?

Cheese head machine screws. I think.... Pan heads are thinner. Goodness knows why there are so many variations on what should be so simple. Saying that, has anybody noticed how many types of woodscrew are now available? Confuses me no end.

I bought a bottle of medium stuff from toolstation. having later undone the bolts (not roto, but on a CV conversion) the were a pig to remove. So obviously it worked very well! Not sure they still sell it, but if in doubt loctite products are well respected.

Yes, that is mgf callipers and discs. I believe they were the same throughout production. I did my own conversion, be aware it is tricky to get the ideal position on the car, lots of stuff is in the way, and clearance to the 13 wheels is very tight. No real reason to use mgf calipers either. If doing again I would look at golf alloy calipers as lighted. I know somebody be used sack versions too. I deed many people like the idea of a disc conversion, but few are prepared to make the bits themselves. And fewer would want to make them for others!

Many self-adjusting brakes have access holes in the drums. So when I fitted a sprint axle to my Toledo (which comes with self-adjusters) I drilled a 1/2" hole in the drum. Big enough to get 2 pokey tools in there, so I can hold the adjuster arm off the ratchet to back it off. Luckily, mine all seem to work well. At the moment.

Re battery, surely it must be negative earth? If so you can fit an 063 battery, which will enable you to turn the battery round and still keep the terminals on the correct size. Battery is bigger too, but very common and good value.

Not certain about zddp levels as I was investigating oils for my car at the time, and 10 60 came up regularly. As a thought, they could well be ideal if a zddp additive were used. However, my Toledo has a slant triumph engine with ohc so doesn't have the high zddp requirement, but as I have 2 tubs of the millers CSS left it would be daft not to use it, especially with the RBRR looming....that should be a fair test. Edit, just checking checked. All m3 from 2001 on use 10 60 but NOT the motor sport variety, which is a no-no, presumably because of cats.

I have used miller's 20 60css, found it to be brilliant especially for a hard driven car. Better oil pressure when hot, but less that when cold. Maybe added 5-10 psi. But I was finding vr1 oil was loosing pressure on track days, and the 20 60 certainly helped. As a related aside, many high performance cars eg m3, Scoobies etc use a 10 60 Motorsport oil, so even new cars need the thicker high temp oil when driven hard. No real downsides either. Except a tiny tiny reduction in fuel economy. (The main driver towards using ultra thin oils)

I have an air rattle gun. I can be fairly accurate with wheel nuts with it, you get a feel for when they are done up correctly. However, if I was a business I would be using a torque wrench.....

I have ford 12mm studs on the front of my car, and mgf with the mgf hub, on the rear. I use std steels with no issues. Paul, sounds like they are a pattern part, land rover suppliers often offer 3 or more different makes for many parts. Maybe ask the supplier to check stock, and see if another brand is correctly made. I know it shouldn't be necessary, but sadly we live in a world of variable quality parts.

Regarding controllers, there are loads of std ones with varying on/off temps, I use one that has a dual switch. And they are about £10 a time. Ideally something that switches on mid 90s and off at a few degrees over your thermostat temp. Also here I agree that the std cooling system should be OK, i know if a couple where recored rads still ran warmer than ideal. And even Colin opted for a more efficient core. Just to be safe. But it is a matter of economics, pure and simple. And the fact the Ali rads weigh virtually nothing, a helpful place to save some weight.

Sorry, VW fan. Flipping autocorrect!

Use the larger rad. I used a very secondhand smaller one on my last zetec spit, it was OK, but died when the car rolled.bi have fitted the larger one this time, and the extra cooling is very evident. some of that from being new, but a 25percent bigger core has to be useful. If you can fit it, I would also use a few fan and cowl, they are amazingly efficient.

I thought it was down to replacement sills being a bit out ( or rather in ) as a local who is a problem bodywork man has exactly that issue. He spit the doorbell, pushed the bottom in and rewelded. Stuff that shouldn't be needed but such is life. I have seen the same problem on some of the old Stafford concours winners too, door fit was often out.....

Tell me about it. Can't decide to just freeze up like a rabbit in headlights! On balance, I doubt it makes massive difference where the injectors go. But intake length, from valve (in head) to end of trumpet does. So I would be using shorter manifold, and sort the trumpet length after. Something to wade through: http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/emr-adj-length-intake/

Inlet length can be altered using trumpets. Easier than trying to loose some length! Also allows deeper filter. Then again for power you want the injector as as far as possible from the valve, for economy close is better.

Those TB's look jenvey-esq and would be good and help on the power front. A simple and elegant solution too. Plus you could just use a std weber inlet. But surely too simple for a man such as yourself? I have jenveys on my Zetec, but looking to fit an st170 engine, and then that would use a set of bike throttle bodies. (basically so I don't have to separate up my engine package, as the ecu is locked to the supplier and can't be mapped for alternative engines) So I may be fitting something like the microsquirt myself. Along with a VVT controller. Which is why I am paying attention to this thread, my current setup was bolt on, turn the key. Far too easy!

155/80 would be standard size these days, 175/70 look a nice bit fatter and more aggressive. personal choice really, the way they stick to the rad is more to do with the quality of tyre than width.

Re tank/pump On my spitfire i was given a tank that had been left empty for over 20 years, no sniff of petrol so a good clean out and we were happy to weld it. Otherwise they need a good steam-clean out. We tack welded a plate (precut a hole, and made a clamp ring for the pump, plus fitted studs to the plate for the clamp ring, which were brazed underneath to prevent petrol working its way up the threads) towards the OS end of the tank, and it was brazed. A bit if a mission as the tank is not flat at the top and has that pesky seam. Took a few goes to get it watertight, then checked with petrol. Anyway, I used a mk4 golf pump, bought off ebay for a tenner. It is a perfect fit in terms of height, and has built in return and a swirl pot. My car has done several trackdays, a couple where the fuel level has got pretty low, and no issues at all. The pump had its sender mechanism removed before fitting, I wonder if that could be utilised but would have been a further complication in terms of gauge calibration. I did use the original golf seal too, so worth finding a pump that includes it (not easy to find new, and not really cheap either) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-BORA-1J-GOLF-MK4-2-0-PETROL-IN-TANK-FUEL-PUMP-SENDER-1J0919051H-1J0-919-051-/112096459787?fits=Model%3AGolf%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+IV&hash=item1a19783c0b:g:gaUAAOSwU-pXsc40

Doug, what size master cylinder do you have fitted? servo equipped cars had a 0.75, which would make braking feel hard and a bit "wooden" however, all the other non-servo cars were fitted with 0.70, which gives better mechanical advantage (about 16%) And the argument could go on about servo's. If you are happy with the feel of the brakes, don't bother. If you are finding them hard, or a "shock" after driving modern cars, fit a servo. The actual braking from a mechanical point of view is unchanged. Probably more important is to use quality brake pads, which make a huge difference. As to coil, probably better on the bulkhead, and no idea why Triumph put it on the engine. But again, it seems to make little if any difference. If doing hard or endurance driving, there may be a benefit to bulkhead location. As to T piece, spitfires had then on the chassis near where the GT6 oil filter is. I can't remember, but it is possible that the GT6 should be in the same place, and factory servo cars moved it up to the bulkhead? the chassis has a little mounting bracket for the T, and I bet GT6 do too (even the late cars) Dougs pint about clips is important too, especially with copper pipe which can work-harden if it can move about.

You could, but a single TB and plenium would be a better solution. After all it is what the huge majority of production cars use. Or go for ITB's, Or if you really must use a pair of TB's (downside is that even with SU's, the pulsing is all wrong, 1-3-4-2 or indeed 2-1-3-4 means the front carb pulls 2 pulses, then the rear 2 pulses, rather than alternating) you have the skills to fit a pair of bike throttle bodies. Have a few hundred pounds in the process....

I think you need a look at Nick Jones stuff, both for his vitesse and also his current project, a 1500 spit his son is building. http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/7048-manifold-fabrication/ Mike weaver has recently injected his sprint with microsquirt, using jenveys. http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/blogs/blogview.cgi?blog=489327 Personally, a plenium and a single throttle body still looks the "best" solution to me. Using the SU's as throttle bodies has few benefits and seems clunky.

My spitfire has an (not exactly a bargain) off the shelf package using A pair of jenvey throttle bodies on a Weber inlet manifold. In all honesty using a single throttle body o. A plenium would be much simpler and easier to set up. Nick Jones really is THE man for this sort of stuff. I am thinking of a few changes so watch out for a progress report. About Christmas the speed I work.