Clive

I had a similar thing wit Peter james. Ok, they asked for about £27 for the remaining 2 moths insurance as the agreed value had gone up 2k. I rand up to pay, but also queried the cost. The VERY helpful lady asked me to wait as the extra premium sounded incorrect. She returned, and said the extra premium was a mistake, and the cars agreed value would attract no extra premium. Letter from them confirmed everything. Really, Peter James are rather good, they have staff who understand what they are doing, and are capable of thinking for themselves. Unusual qualities.....

The quick solution would be a recon driveshaft from canleys or similar... TR enterprises is local I believe, though mainly TR's and saloons, but James is a great bloke and may be able to help. You have an active area around you, but time really isn't on your side here. Saying all that, you may be OK, presume you have proper breakdown cover etc. But when it happened to us in France years ago, they cut the hub off the shaft and then had to wait a few days to get a new hub. Ouch.

I would be doing it sooner rather than later. Once the surface of the shaft has started to go, things happen quite fast. Was the bearing replaced as a matter of course, or because there was wear? As Pete says, the bearings run direct on the shaft, so any previous damage (however tiny it looked) quickly become apparent with a new bearing.

No chance of getting money back, all that sort of stuff is sold as racing parts with no real warranty. I am amazed a 1500 engine with that spec has lasted at all, would have expected the crank to let go, so you are doing well! You need to get advice from people used to racing engines, look at who the racers actually use to build engines, not who just sell the parts.

Which wheel bearing was replaced? If front, I would be taking that apart and checking it. The no play is a worry, should have a tiny bit of rock. It may have been overtightened. To put this in perspective, a good friend decioded to get a garage to replace a front wheelbearing on his 360bhp cossie. He gave them the hub and new bearing, picked it up next day and fitted. 2 years, and 2000 miles later he had similar issues. On investigation the bearing had been fitted by an orang-outang, I could not even get the hub nut off with a 4foot bar on it. Given to our tame local helpful chap who had to use a massive 3/4inch impact wrench to get it apart, and pressed the old out and new in, problem solved. If rear bearing, was the shaft replaced at the same time? if not, it should have been.

Back to wiper blades..... I bought a set from who ever I was getting an order from ages ago. Went on the car just before the MoT, and the other day they had to be used. Hopeless...... these are the shiny (I doubt stainless?) ones sold as Tex or lookalike, and not cheap. Just fitted the generic blades I buy for under £2 a pop, happen to be 10" mini ones as we have a Mini too. They are much better. And black, which is handy as I found the original black arms almost as soon as I fitted the shiny replacements. I suspect the Tex type ones would be fine with replacement rubbers, seems to be a problem with all rubber stuff in the classic market.

I know somebody who had a couple made up out of aluminium by an engineer on a lathe. May be cost effective?

http://vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/triumph.htm may find that a better price. When I got mine from them, it was sent from Surrey, as in near London. But maybe email them first??

The aldon (which are rebranded pertronix!!) are excellent units.......

Try, but I am pretty certain the nuts bottom out and you can't over-compress the bushes. If they are slack, maybe an extra washer?? Saying that, never had an issue with the original bushes on diffs, even at nearly 50 years old they seem good.

Sports exhaust and K+N's will upset the mixture. Yes, at idle the mixture will be correct, but at higher rpm it will be too lean, only way is to swap the needles, though tricky with strombergs, a trip to a rolling road may help by reprofiling. However, probably not the cause of your symptoms (though not helping, lean running will get the engine hotter than normal) However, Colin has a fair point, could be fuel supply. Is the tank suffering with a vacuum? Not sure if there is a breather system for the tank? Also, there are some dreadful new ignition parts on the market. Notably rotor arms, condensers and coils. Good condition old parts are usually fine. Try a meeting, see if you can "borrow" some known good parts??

They will fit, but may well be tight on the arch clearance. I use them on my spit. Google the idea, see what comes up? I think it has been done. Bear in mind you would need to sort out fixings. There are no std nuts that can be used to bolt them on via the original wheel studs. I lashed up a system using 60degree wheel washers and wide seated 6o degree wheelnuts. Didn't fall off.... But the best solution by a very long way is to change to the beefy 12mm freelander studs, then use teh MGf or Ford nuts. Will still work with std steel wheels.

If the car is very original and tidy, but needs some bits sorting, there is no real reason to use modern alternatives. Remember it is your car. So if you intend to go touring teh continent and drive a few thousand miles in a week (a lot of Triumph owners do!) then you may want to consider more supportive seats. There is also the problem with many reproduction parts, so again no issues with fitting electronic ignition, and polybushes if the originals need replacing. Fuelling, nothing wrong with subtle upgrades, or even full EFI if that is your thing. None of these things will really devalue the car, as they can all be reversed easily. Chopping the car about and dropping a zetec in is a bit more contentious, but if that is what you want from the car, do it or swap the car for one that is maybe more suitable to become a monster (I say this from experience, my zetec spit is on the road now!)

Had a similar issue when I fitted capri vented discs to my spit (spaced GT6 calipers) In the end had a few thou taken off the hub/disc face, used some washers about 3mm tick behind the steering arm, but also used a different TRE, in fact genuine unipart ones for a classic mini. They were smaller than the old ones. If you can find them, the old std 8 and 10 TRE's are smaller again, and don't use a rubber boot but a metal washer arrangement to keep dirt out.

Any of the lucas ACR alernators will be fine (as long as they have a built in regulator, most do. And it is correctly handed, though that is easy to swap) Plenty available, and reliability seems better these days, a few years ago new units were terrible. And in all honesty they are not expensive either. Buy from a reputable supplier.

May be worth calling and making an appt? Then somebody could be available. Not a big staff there, but they are very helpful.

It isn't far, as long as you are confident in the car you should expect a hassle free trip. Famous last words! Check tyre pressure are good, and tyres not old etc (and decent quality is sensible) Brakes are not down to the linings, all lube points done. Check wiper blades too, if they are iffy and it rains all the way there and back it will drive you nuts. I am taking my spit, friend a stag. He is carrying a spare fuel pump (seems the car eats them regularly) but I will be taking a fair toolkit, fits easily in the spare wheel "well" including gaffer tape, cable ties, spare fuses, some wire and connectors, a few odd nuts and bolts. Fan belt and spare top up fluids should do it. More of a worry is what music and what the weather will bring!

Knowing how racing works, I would expect the clips to be nothing more than aluminium L brackets.

Unless you REALLY want to get the shock bolt out, I would leave it well alone. But Gary is correct, it is "normal" to have to drill the trunnion bolt out, a press will rarely do the job. But make sure it is done accurately, I have seen a few where the hole has not been correctly aligned, up to a bolt hole out (but the remains of the old bolt means it looked OK at first glance, but I wouldn't want to use it)

Are you wanting to just replace your glass with polycarbonate? If so any plastic supplier will be able to cut what you want from whatever thickness you want (presumably to match existing) However, proceed with caution as it is a bit soft, and will scratch very easily, and unlike perspex/acrylic does not polish well. Or are you after the fixed side windows with the small sliding opener? If so it may be a DIY proposition, or somebody like Jigsaw or Canleys may be able to help. Plenty of racers use them, so look outside the triumph scene too, after all it will just be a case of cutting to the correct size and fitting.

Sounds like the rear wheel are not parallel to the centre line of the car. You may need to tweek both rear wheels so you end up with an equal gap, if that makes sense. I have just checked and the track width is the same on herald based cars. Odd one is late spit 1500 and GT6 with long shafts.

My guess would be the bulkhead under the a post has dropped. Can be for several reasons, one herald I helped with the body mount had totally gone! The bulkhead should be fitted first, everything else is adjusted to fit that. But the assumption is the bulkhead is correctly positioned and level. And any chassis repairs have always been done accurately (often not the case) Hoods should be a pretty tight fit, but there is some adjustment in the frame position and on the header rail of the frame. But get the door correct first, then look at the hood last.

I have recent experiences. My spit went back on the road after 25 years. last month. Local PO did it all, took 15 mins, and a form (which I think was wrong!) and bloke gave me a receipt for zero and 12 months tax. Haven't had the new V5 yet though. (did it all there) I suspect the PO staff just have no idea, indeed this chap had to keep checking things on his puter.

Simple, actually give some info in the post. The usual stuff applies, 90% of car in the club have solid driveshafts, but we need to know. (Or are you saying separate GT6 mk 1, 2, 3 and late non rotoflex mk 3?? Likewise vitesse, do we have vit 1600, 2L and mk2? maybe another section for CV or DL??) I think Pete is alluding to a recent post on shafts? if so there was no way of knowing what shafts unless it was put in the post. Which it wasn't (no problem, the OP can easily add info) Nope, keep it as it is, it ain't broke, people need to add clues, that is all.

Yes, but that is a good thing, circulates air under the bonnet when the engine is still hot.