Clive

How is the actual distributor? Advance etc working correctly? springs OK? Nothing wrong with those solex carbs (unless faulty, but substitution suggests the problem is elsewhere)

No problem at all running different sizes front/rear. In this instance, 175/60 may indeed be a suitable solution. Since last posting I have got my spit on the road, fitted with MGF wheels and 185/55 15's. Also running low 480lb springs, and had a little rubbing. 10mm spring spacers fitted each side has cured the issue.

I have not run shields since I had my first spitfire, 26 years ago. Generally chopped them off (they can be removed more carefully, but then require washers as distance pieces to keep everything in line) like Tom, I now run vested discs. I must say after the (short) track laps at spa the brakes on the spitfire were getting rather hot, but it was being thrashed with no mercy at all (only got overtaken once, by a newish 400bhp corvette....)

IIRC an almost perfect 50:50 distribution was mentioned. Picton sportscars have done a few, or steve attenborough's blog would be a useful resource, may take a while to get through it though! http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/blogs/blogview.cgi?blog=492306#24

Doug, do not be afraid of the overdrive. I have only had one need any proper attention in 25 years, and that was on a 120,000 mile gearbox and od (saloon box in my vitesse) that had never been shown a moment of mercy (by me at least) 95% or overdrive problems are simple electrical faults. And 5 speed Type 9 boxes are getting hard to find. Therefore expensive.... As to tyres, 7 years is a decent rule of thumb. Bin them after that. Just replaced 9 year old (pirelli) tyres on the MX5 for a set of Goodyear Efficientgrips (£140 delivered, bargain) Car is now almost silent on the move, and more importantly I cant spin the wheels in second on a damp day. In fact it is hard to do it in first now, the grip is amazing! Chalk and cheese, both similar end of the market tyres, and the pirellis were only down to 3-4mm

Please, it does all refer to "reconstructed" vehicles. So the obvious example for us is Jigsaws replica ADU, built out of a few bits or original competition cars and lots (I suspect) from other sources. And I believe DVLA let them use the ADU number on that reconstructed (I do hope I am using that term correctly) spitfire. This seems to have nothing to do with modified vehicles, which still use the points rule. Colin, worth noting that all our cars have to go through the MoT, which is a basic safety test to prove the car is essentially safe. However, I would love to see the rules on tyre age updated, the number of old cars that run around on ancient rubber is scary (I got all anal walking around the waiting area at Spa prior to the track laps, some cars I would not want to be a passenger in going down the local shops!)

That won't work. With 5 people on board it would struggle on the flat, and refuse any hills...

I "think" the current ones are OK, in the past they have had very short lifespans. If (big if) you can find a genuine unipart/stanpart version I would buy one.

Herald are delightful cars, I have owned several and enjoyed them all. Easy to work on too. Mini, my wife owns one that is regularly used by the rest of the family including our daughters, one uses it to learn in, the other did learn in it. parts availability is probably better with the Mini, and usually cheaper? but everything is more difficult to do. You would struggle to get 3 in the back of a Mini or a herald convertible, a saloon is a possibility. Often cars like that find you rather than the other way round. Keep looking, go to some shows etc and see what is available. Prices at shows are often unrealistic, but it gives you an idea. But only you (as in the family) can decide what to buy

Never had a problem using my thumbs and gently spreading the rings. Only open them up enough to get over the piston though.

Buy a thermostat off ebay, plenty of good sellers and the same part. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOCAL-OT-1-1-2-REMOTE-OIL-COOLER-THERMOSTAT-CIVIC-VTEC-TYPE-R-S2000-CRX-SQ-/400742021200?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d4e15f850 As John says, unless car is driven hard it won't be needed (exception is the 1500 engine when used on motorways or hard driving) but no thermostat is detrimental.

Just a thought, you do realise the TR7 uses larger studs than heralds (12mm I think, heralds puny 3/8unf) which is why TR7 nuts are of no use to you.

You would need the correct nuts for the wheels. Possibly 60 degree taper nuts, about £20 a set. And you will need bulge nuts at least (please do NOT use the std herald wheelnuts, they are not suitable, and potentially you could lose a wheel or 2) Or swap your studs to match the TR7 nuts (assuming they come with the wheels) but that is more hassle.

L goes to the lamps, - is the new earth connection, + is the 12v live feed

A few posts above you say no oil to teh front 3 sets of rockers? does that mean you do have oil to the rear 3 pairs?? I am getting confused! Do not rely on a new rocker set being OK just because it is new. It may be worth investigating the shaft etc, I think you can remove the end caps?

I doubt you will find a supplier at all. You could try making one yourself using acrylic sheet (perspex) and shaping it using a heatgun. It may require a jig being made, but at least you have the old one to get the correct shape. Apart from that a plastics company should be able to help, but it obviously will not be cheap.

I see your point. If the sender was at the top of the rad I would say you want it to switch on a few degrees hooter tahn when the thermostat opens, but at the bottom, a bit more of a guess. However..... I have just fitted a polo rad to my TR7 powered toledo [project (rad was only £17 delivered!) and used the rad upside down to suit the in/out pipework, meaning tghe switcgh is in the bottom of the rad. I have used a VW switch http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201108896280?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and the lower temp switches on when the temp gauge reads just over half, and off when just under half. So may be about right? (sorry, not with car to give the temp settings, but think it is 87 on 76 off??)

Could be timing. The original timing figures are no longer valid. Different grade of fuel, worn components etc so you may need to retard the ignition slightly. If it is timing, it should be worse under load. ie going up an incline, lower revs/high gear. Also try disconnecting the vacuum advance.

have you checked the gauge on a known engine? they are not usually accurate, and do get knocked about. Have a measure of the head depth, as in from bottom to top faces. Then see if you can find the original depth. That will be a strt point. If it has been massively overskimmed, best bet would be another head. Often available for not huge sums (they seem to sell for £10-50 at jumbles)

My post meant you need to do your research on the supplier you mentioned! Carefully. Then find a supplier who you want to do business with...... I am not up to date with engine costs, probably because it would scare me! £750 sounds a lot to recon a head, I paid £150 for a spitfire head a few years ago for valve seats etc, so I would have thought a 6 today would be £350 for a clean, valves and seats?? Maybe other work was carried out. However, it may be worth contacting a local machine shop and get some prices.

Do your research into your "chosen" supplier before you make a firm decision. You may decode on an alternative supplier. And do not buy on price alone.......

I reckon pcd is 100mm. That is 4.75mm bigger than small triumphs, so about 1/8". Fit all sorts of cars. Or 4" which is a tad over 100mm, mini sized. Close but no cigar, and mis sold.

The factory specs 21F/26R would be for a 155 section tyre. But the factory should have got those right. Hopefully. More rubber would mean less pressure required.....but the difference is negligible. Wall stiffness varies hugely from make to make. try a few pressures and experiment. Best not go too wild (spitfires are truly horrible if you try 35psi!)

As a start I would be trying the same as std factory pressures, 21 front 26 rear. however, I have generally run mine around 24-26 all round. So try and see what works best for you.

Concentrate is just that, neat antifreeze. So mix as normal. It seems many people are unable to dilute antifreeze, so buy ready mixed. ie half the amount of antifreeze mixed with water, but costs the same. Nuts.