Clive

John is correct, easiest solution is to use a spitfire 1500 flywheel and then any spit/herald starter can be used. As to water pump, you can use either viscous (though the viscous unit can be troublesome) or normal fixed. earlier cars use a slightly smaller diameter pump pulley, but still work. May require slightly shorter fan belt.

Being honest I would say easier on the car. It is all accessible, and held in position. Get a difficult nut on the bench and it is tricky to hold the whole lot. Even if the trunnion bolts are seized (do not, under any circumstances try a big hammer, you will ruin the lower wishbone) they can be cut through the dustshilds ideally with a grinder fitted with thin blade and hacksaw in a few minutes. However, the way it is often done is to take the front turrets off and just undo the bottom wishbone brackets off the chassis. If you do this carefully note the number/position of all shims so it all goes back exactly the same. Also the engine will dangle free so will need supporting. As to parts inspect the top of the thread of the uprights very carefully, any sign of microcracks, throw them away and buy new. New shocks and springs on a mk3 is tricky. Many (especially the cheap end) of retailers just sell spitfire springs. They are for the later cars and will sit the car too high. Likewise the black cheap shocks (a) do not do a very good job and ( the spring platform is (was?) too high. loads of cars about that have mahoosive gaps between wheel and arch, look ridiculous. See, nothing as simple as it seems!

superflex is as good as you will get. Club prices (as long as you are a member) are good too. I recently bought some and the club was the cheapest (I always check!)

Yes, inners need grease too, though to be honest once done they never really need re-doing. But if apart it is wise to clean. check and regrease. No, don't fill anything except the actual bearing with grease.

Forget timing lights and marks. As Doug says, do it by ear. drive the car (light throttle mild incline and gently accelerate) and then keep advancing teh timing until it pinks. Then retard it a little until no pinking happens, the timing is as correct as it is possible to get. I have had cars on rolling road, and they could not improve on the timing set in this way.

Hmm, I take it they are currently minilites you have? Shame, as I was thinking about a set of rev 4 spokes....

Not complicated, teh overdrive just means it has an angle drive as well as the speedo cable. It is just pop the tunnel out (I said that quickly!) and find out which component has gone. If the angle drive, also replace the cable as a matter of course, and check the speedo isn't seized (unusaul)

Has the car got overdrive? if so the angle drive would be top of my list of suspects....If that has broken it may be down to the cable, or even the speedo itself seizing. The drives are expensive (and there were lots of rubbish ones around) so you will not want to do that job twice. Access through the centre panel will help a lot. You may end up taking the rev counter out too, though on GT6 that has a cable drive too.

And some have lived to tell the tale. Not convinced all escaped though.

Yep, I'll be there! Remember some will be there from soon after 7pm sampling the culinary delisghts of the pub, it is the only monthly meeting I can drag my lady wife along to these days. Gary, I solve that sort of problem with a lump hammer! and on my currant spit I have used spacers to reduce full lock.

Not as simple as that, offset measured from centreline https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vintagewheelworks.com%2Ftech-offset.php&ei=KhxsVbPzCPCR7Aa2rYGYCQ&bvm=bv.94455598,d.ZGU&psig=AFQjCNEIyvWx720T8UiQZo5MaAiDdL0yrg&ust=1433234856771120 This may help too http://bassettwheel.com/wheel_faq.html though remember to allow for the bead width, usually 1/2" each side of the wheel.

Rimmers possibly newton Commercial? If you want great covers, try Park Lane Classics, never heard anything but praise for their stuff. Did our seats in an evening on the dining room table!

Take many many measurements, especially the rear outrigger where it bolts to the rear suspension. Get that wrong and you will have big problems! ideally sit it so that you may need to add extra shims to correct the rear tracking, otherwise you will have to shorten the tie rod itself (had to do that once on a herald I bought) All the dimensions are in the manual, but it may be worth doing them one at a time so you keep reference points. And yes, support the body and check the body mounts as you go. Next issue is assuming you are leaving the body on, is how to weld the top edge. The factory work-around was to weld an additional plate to the top of the rigger, and then weld that to the inside edge of the chassis rails, if that makes sense.

If you are willing/able you can replace the big ends without taking the engine out. Otherwise plenty of specialist in the Midlands, your local area/group would be the place to ask.

You really MUST get it cleared. If that area is blocked the water flow around the block will be compromised and that is bad news. Wire coathangers, choke cable bowden cable (throttle cable, etc etc etc) are all useful things to poke about. Once you have got it clear, a comprehensive flush is needed, initially with a hose (and yes, pushed up against the block drain is an important aspect) followed by a chemical clean and reflush before filling with coolant. Without that you are only doing half a job, probably less.

Newman cams are the people to go to. Really. TR5 cam (ie the 150bhp profile) is good as it is meant to work at lower RPM than many others, so ideally suited to the 1500 engine. And should wotrk well as long as you have a head skim to raise the CR, around 9.75 would be good. Combine with a 4 branch manifold and proper tuning of the carbs and you will see 90-100bhp. But it will cost......(rolling road session, the manifold and the skim. Don't forget new cam followers too) Do not be guided by price. All too often you save a tenner, only to find out you have to strip the engine down and then buy the decent part after all. False economy. At the moment the county/king trimetal/HD bearings are the best easily sourced ones. But on a hard driven engine, you will be needing a thermostatic oil cooler and decent oil.......don't skimp here or the crank will not last very long. I have a few t shirts, stopped getting them when I fitted the cooler and millers CSS oil. If that all seems too much, stick with a std spec cam, or maybe the mk3 spit profile cam. But unless you are prepared for the journey, do not start down the path. It ends in disappointment and often misery (t shirt again!)

The trick with the ferries is to book ASAP, but usually they start taking bookings 6-9 months in advance. Just checked and I suspect the favoured portsmouth-le havre crossing is going to be unreasonably pricey. A few years ago, £100, last time nearer £200 but that was DFDS. Seems only Brittany do that crossing, and I fully expect it to cost £250-300. Newhaven-dieppe should be £120ish on a 5 day trip. And similar drive times in France. Folkstone/Dover is 100 miles the wrong direction for me, so will not be considered.....

As Colin points out, the 2 litres is probably in the block, unless you drained that (tap or hex bolt/plug at rear of engine under manifolds) In fact, there is usually a load of crud in there so no water comes out when you open it, best poked with wire etc and flushed to get it clear.

I had a herald years ago that had a similar issue. The problem was "solved" by drilling and a splitpin (before my ownership) If a difficult to source, you may be able to file it round and retap the next smaller thread, but a new or good used one is the best solution. Guessing non roto which should be common enough.

Not sure there are many about, only one I know is Beaulieu. They sell the very nice Michelin XAS, as fitted to cars back when they were new. Sit down before you ask how much.....

Steam cleaning or just pressure washing?? I use the pressure washer on engines in situ with no issues at all. You can normally use a narrow fan and it is very accurate, so you can avoid the distributer/air filters and so on very easily. Makes leak finding nice and easy once clean! (usually why I do it) Be aware the rest of the car will need a good wash after as the grot goes everywhere, and as for you, a soak in bio washing powder is required.

Apologies, I had always taken it to be the width, as in 3.5, 4.5 etc. Every day a skoolday! Very easy to get measuring the width wrong if tyre is off, it is the width between the beads. I was mis sold some wheels as 5.5 (not j!) because the numpty had measured to the outside of the bead which adds an inch. Wasted journey. Been rethinking my earlier reply, If deefer wants original width tyres, then 155 80 13 would deffo be the choice.But only if wheels are 5j. If 5.5 I believe they will still fit, but a bit marginal.

They won't be 13J (j refers to the width of the wheel) but probably 5, 5.5 or 6. My guess is 5 as they are the size sold as the reasonable cost.... Anyway, as the wheels are not original, there is no correct size. however, as long as the 175/70 are working fine with no rubbing, I would say they are a VERY suitable size as they have teh same overall diameter as the old 155 tyres. The other option would be 165/70 which has a slightly smaller diameter and width, again they work well and my be more what you are looking for. I would hesitate to suggest fitting 155/80 tyres unless you can confirm the wheels are 5j and no bigger. Whatever you fit, please buy quality tyres and don't let them get older that 7 years.....(saw far far too many cars at spa, going on track with tyres that were legal, but too old and indeed rubbish quality, scared the life out of me as I didn't want somebody on ditchfinders ploughing into me on track)

Quite a few Triumphs down in Spa this weekend................ Personally, I do prefer to drive my cars rather than park them up. Saying that, a cuppa, bit of cake and an ice cream with a flake a little later could change my mind (on a sunny day). Bacon has a similar effect.

Are courier springs available again? I fitted one to my herald estate, and used a 1" lowering block. That was used extensively for road rallies and autosolos, and it was brilliant. I removed the front ARB at the same time (couriers were not fitted with ARB's) which made evrything handle sharply and predictably. The spring is better suited than the swingspring conversion, though that can work as long as you do not intend carrying people or heavy luggage.