Clive

I have never seen any front diff rubbers that needed replacing (others may have) but using a lever and checking if there is any excessive movement should be easy. As to the rear diff mounts, try the same to check the bushes, and then slacken the bolt (or bolts) and see if there is any movement. Doubtful, but you never know.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-4-5-5J-deep-dish-triumph-Spifire-Herald-gt6-steels-with-4-new-tyres-/111758973398?hash=item1a055a99d6 seem a pretty good deal...Not sure about the tyres, but not everybody is fussy (I am!) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-vitesse-gt6-herald-wide-wheels-5-5-/331641416186?hash=item4d375e69fa may get lucky with those, but they seem to fetch north of £150 a set usually in that sort of condition.

chances are if it is the diff, unless a bearing is shot, the crownwheel and pinion are worn and a rebuild may help, but may not get it exactly quiet. You may be better off finding a good secondhand one? Goodness knows how many ones I weighed in years ago as nobody ever wanted them. Seems they are a bit harder to find now though. Ho hum. UJ's unlikely to cause a roar. Best bet is to get the driveshafts disconnected along with the prop, and have a feel of the diff. Worn bearings often feel rough, and catch it soon enough it may be savable. I may be able to point you in the direction of a handy chap in sussex who is good with diffs, he is dropping in a bit later today.

would a helicoil not work? guess it may need threadlock to fix it in place?

Plenty of evidence that K+N's offer improvements over std air filters, BUT and it is a very BIG but, the vast majority are a waste of time and probably make things worse. If any modifications, like K+N's, manifold or whatever, it needs to be thought through and the knock-on effects sorted. If K+N's are fitted, they really ought to have stub stacks fitted inside to hugely improve the airflow (probably far more than just the filters). And of course, if you have more air, you need more fuel. So a change of needle and/or piston spring. All best achieved on a rolling road, although there are plenty of long-term recommendations for "standard" modifications. Cold air feed is also very worthwhile, along with good heat shields. I have seen k+n's fitted inside airboxes. In fact, on my vitesse, I had a modified std airbox with the K+N elements inside. No bling, but a case of function over form. Another option would be to use the std airbox empty, and connect the tubes to a remote filter placed in front/to one side of the radiator.

Richard, if you want a diff looked at speak to Pete at a club meeting. He is very good. As to ratio, bear in mind the 1500 spit came with a 3.63, so a vitesse will pull it. However, it is very easy to get into the mindset that lower revs is a better thing, it really does depend on driving style and types of use. Well worth having a look at the mintylamb gear comparison site http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/ This is helpful as it will tell you what revs you will be at when you change gears. On my spitfire I am finding a 3.63 a bit too relaxed, and opens up the overall gearing a little too much. But I think a change of tyre size will drop things enough. However, my car is not exactly standard! Hopefully see you Wednesday, will be a tad late as doing a short track session at Brands until 7ish, but will drop in on the way home for a spot of dinner.

Try using a drill (in reverse!) with a either a flat screwdiver bit, or a bit of rod with a flat on teh end to turn the oil pump drive under the distributor. In fact it is worth checking that the distributor is engaging with the oil pump drive etc. I now use this technique to get oil around the system prior to startup.

I don't think there are any issues with saying a supplier is good, or certain parts are excellent fit etc. I think there are issues with naming and shaming. That can be avoided by asking for a recommended supplier of a given part. I suspect a comment such as "avoid the cheapo black shock absorbers" is OK too, as no supplier is mentioned. Bit like saying don't buy bruised apples! PM's work well for warning people, I have done that a few times when a certain notorious "supplier" is mentioned.

I heard they improve cooling, channelling the airflow correctly or such like. Not a lot of heat comes out the sides of a spitfire bonnet, and the GT6 louvres are not very efficient. Otherwise they would have kept them for the later cars (maybe)

I believe the clutch plate is a "special" made by frontline, or at least commissioned by them, and they are the only source. An alternative is possible, fitting the clutch from a ford, and having the flywheel machineed to accept the ford clutch. Sounds drastic, but probably cheaper than the bespoke plate! And spares far more easily available. As to gearbox bearing, a friend stripped my T9, cleaned and checked it over, and decided it just needed gaskets and seals. He reckons they are a tough box, so I would expect a recon in a spitfire to last at least 100K!

Alternatively, another diff may last OK. I broke a succession of 3.27 diffs in my 2.5 vitesse, and then fitted a recon 3.63. That lasted fine, and went into my last Zetec spit (155bhp) that was hooned about and did a couple of autosolos with no damage. That same diff is in my current zetec spit(again approx 155bhp), but I am getting old and worry too much...... A 3.89 may well suit the car better, get to use all those lovely revs! I am considering a 4.1 subaru diff, rather than the 3.7 I have lined up.

The box must have been terribly built for a spitfire engine to trouble it. usually good for about 200bhp, and I have heard they can cope with rather more (though no idea of longevity) However, not the first time I have heard of such issues. BGH have a great reputation with the Type 9's, but they just recondition gearboxes. However, probably worth discounting other sources of clonking first. I would have a look at the prop, make sure it isn't touching the prop tunnel under load. And therefore also gearbox mount, exhaust and so on.

John, surely some mistake! the fiat twincam 2.0 produce way way more power (100-140) in production form, and many way more than that these days.... Anyway, stronger diffs... easiest is the quaife, though it still utilises the normal crownwheel and pinion, which doesn't seem to be an issue but still worries me a little. I am fitting a Subaru R160 diff to my spitfire in the nearish future. This is a conversion from New Zealand, and requires a few parts that mean it is not cheap (broadly similar to a quaife) and also needs a rotoflex type suspension setup. (I now have most of the required bits, diffs are really cheap and many are viscous LSD. CV "rotalex already in place) Others have fitted ford diffs, but that seems more of a challenge. No off the shelf conversion is available.

I don't think the Vulcan is affected as it does not do aerobatics, just gentle(!!) flypasts.

Nope, needs to come out. Usually open a hacksaw, put blade through sleeve and reassemble, but a slit and the sleeve will then come out (with a little persuasion, no chance otherwise)

I'll echo what John has said. Please DO NOT do anything that drips oil on the road at any point. I could easily have been killed a few years ago because of oil or diesel being on a road, wrote off my spitfire (rolled after a spin) and a few minutes later another car got written off on the same patch (dolly sprint)

I ought to clarify that^^ spitfires didn't change ratio depending on whether OD was fitted or not. But before anybody points out the bleeding obvious, MK 1-3 all had 4.11, MK4 3.89 and 1500 3.63!

Diff the same on all spitfires, only GT6 had the 2 ratios. Gearbox rubber mount and plate are also on the "needed" list.

Have you tried wire coathangers, or better throttle cable outer? they are effective poker-abouters for that plug. Stronger than washing soda is sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) which are alkali (nasty stuff to humans) or alternatively and do not allow to mix this alkali, something like Brick Cleaner (which is hydrochloric acid) will attack most scale and rust deposits, but don't leave it too long. Of course normal rad flush stuff will do a fair job, but I think that is just a strongish alkali.

Megajolt can have a soft-cut and hard-cut at any chosen rpm. A handy feature...... I guess you are choosing something like a TR5 profile for the cam? good as it is aimed at limited RPM. But do get the compression ratio sorted to match, a certain Triumph clever clogs always reckoned a 1500 with a TR5 cam and Toledo (low compression 1300) head worked well along with an extractor manifold to give, 100BHP. By my simple calcs, that head should give a CR of about 10:1 and with megajolt it should be nicely controlled and avoid detonation. Clutch, I believe it is possible to lighten the flywheel, but seek advice as you don't want issues. Likewise I understand it is possible to re-drill it to accept a ford clutch, available with the correct friction plate for the triumph box and decent quality. However, I have never had an issue with proper laycock or B+B clutches (though I wouldn't use the current B+B clutches as they are just badge engineered by firstline) NOS is available from the autojumblers at Stoneleigh every year, and I expect they advertise in CCW or similar? good prices too. No need for new BE bolts in my experience, but I think ARP cosworth bolts will fit? do check though. Again, I have always re-used flywheel bolts and use a touch of threadlock just in case.

That is a conundrum! I would guess at extra lights, either spots, fogs (front or rear) but there are plenty of possibilities. An electric fan, heated window on a hardtop, ejector seat, who knows? think it is time for you to investigate and see where the wires lead. You may get lucky, especially if the PO left the wires loose under the dash and not taped into a loom.

the AE ones appeal, but in the states makes things trickier in terms of delivery. I have used modern ones from Paddocks, no complaints about them. Just make sure you hone the bores well (sorry if teaching you to suck eggs here)

It depends on if they are seized or worn. And you can only check that with the spring disconnected..... So it may be worth getting a set in, plus new bolts(!) and do it anyway. Even if they are difficult, it shouldn't be a huge job. And if they are fine, keep the kits for a year or 2 down the line. One thing, I don't see how the leaves (except the bottom one) can be thicker, otherwise they will not fit in the spring box?

On the tub there should be (not certain) dimples to locate the tie rod brackets for welding, otherwise copy a roto car. Be aware the brackets are mighty expensive. As my heelboard needed a few repairs I cut my brackets out and re-used them! The lower wishbone bracket position is on the canley classics website. When I did mine I discovered I had to check things carefully as the chassis was not quite as it should have been (from the factory!) but managed to get the correct position using body mount holes.

Nah, it all started when I got a phonecall from a school asking if I fancied a term teaching cooking. How hard can it be? in fact it was probably the most fun teaching I have had, I learnt loads from a dear lady who was the "technician." I even mastered choux pastries, but not done much/any recently. However, who doesn't like cakes. Lemon drizzle is always a favorite, though a decent Victoria sponge is a very close second.