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Mine are definitely not smooth but not as crinkly as the TRGB one. Even the one I re-painted myself with wrinkle finish paint came out more like the unrestored originals than that!

I've only owned one Herald and it was a late 13/60. It used the small flanges, the same as the Mk2 and Mk3 Spitfires I've worked on, which are different to the Vitesse and GT6. There's definitely a difference in the diff output stub shafts between early and late Heralds but I think the flanges are the same.

I'm fairly sure all the ash trays on my various Triumphs have been crinkle finish (well, except the Vitesse ones because Mk1 Vitesses had a slide-out ash try with a wooden front)

I use a moisture trap at the gun to help with the risk of contamination in the hoses, or condensation in the pipe-work round the walls. Mine's a suction feed gun - not as good as a gravity one. I also have an HVLP but it needs a very different air supply to what the compressor gives, and the Apollo blower for it has expired. I found it gave decent results when it was working, though.

Thanks all. I currently have Lumenition on the original 50-year-old distributor and it's been pretty robust, but I know there's a lot of play in the top bush and I'm wondering whether that's causing the persistent misfire that goes away for a couple of months if I replace all the usual bits (plugs, rotor, cap) but then comes back well before any of them have any right to be worn out. If the only way to fix it is a new bush, and given that I've NEVER managed to dismantle a Delco far enough to do that, I'm very tempted by the new option.

As Colin says, the filler flap assembly has a small drain hole in the bottom which should have a hose out through the boot floor. However, that's probably not enough to stop splash on hard cornering if the rubber seal on the filler is no good. The filler cap should close tight enough to hold the fuel in the tank / neck. It's not intended to be a breathable cap on the MK3 - there should be a separate breather pipe from the tank or filler hose (I can't remember which off-hand - the same cap is used on 2000 estates and Stags but I think the breather arrangement is different).

I've been thinking about the condition of my GT6's distributor, which is really rather worn out. It looks like a major task to refurbish it. Then I came across brand new ones on fleabay. It looks rather too good to be true - a bit too cheap to trust - and yet the seller appears to be someone reputable. I wondered whether anyone here has any experience or relevant observations.

I use Canleys or Paddocks, sometimes TRGB (for geographical reasons). Rimmers are last resort, usually, because of price.

OK, but even if you're not running new cable, you aren't actually using the regulator. All you need is some way to connect the appropriate wires together. Unless you want to go back to a dynamo at any point, the easiest is probably to cut off the spade connectors and connect with line crimps or solder joints.

Possibly he'd broken or cut through the loom and decided to "repair" it by adding more trouble.

The workshop manual shows twelve body fixing bolts: - one each side in the engine bay at the foot of the bulkhead - one each side in the footwell at the outside corner of the bulkhead - two each side in near the centre on the box section just in front of the seats - one each side just inboard of the rear suspension tie-bar mounts - one each side on top of the spring tunnel, under the front of the luggage floor (covered by grommets) What it doesn't mention is that the seat belt inner anchors (or the catch mounting plates on a Mk3) also bolt through the floor into the chassis and thus act as two more fixings. The body tub also attaches to the rear suspension by the tie-bars and, on Rotoflex models, the shock absorbers.

I assume you've taken out the bolts at either end of the saddle, in line with the axle?

I had a 240W on my Stag. It was ridiculous. I fitted a variable speed controller and never ran it above a quarter.

Most air tools just want a light oil - something like 3-in-1 is fine, and you only really need to dribble a little in from time to time. I don't use any fancy in-line oiler devices, just a few drops in the quick-release connector before use.

Not the model, because I didn't fit it - that was the previous owner or earlier. I suspect it's not a current model, since I've owned the car for 17 years now.

The problem is that they usually quote just the maximum depth. The Kenlowe in my Vitesse is fitted so that the motor is in the gap between pulleys, but the blades are under an inch in depth so they clear the crank pulley spacer.

John, re-read the thread. Martin had established that the lights light up if he actually feeds 12V to them, and that the red wires are not doing so. So I bet that improving the earth will make no difference.

Yes, the red ones are rear wing arch repairs, the black are the outer part of the wheel arch. So the flange on the red ones should fit the rolled-over bit of the black ones.

That is correct but not relevant here. The rear light feed doesn't go through the column switch - it's fed off the bullet connector where the NR wire from the master light switch to the column switch joins to a R wire. The inline fuse only feeds the headlamp pull-to-flash, nothing else. As I said way up thread before the wrong diagram got posted.

Unfortunately your wiring diagram is not the one in the official WSM. Where is it from? Dodgy earth is probably the most common cause of mystery electrical problems BUT... Martin said: That would not tie up with a dodgy earth. If there's no power on the red, that's not an earth problem, and if bypassing the red makes it work, it's not an earth problem.

I don't think there is a fuse box on a 13/60 - just a single in-line fuse for the headlamp flash circuit. It's most likely a dodgy bullet connector somewhere. There's a 3-way bullet connecting the light switch feed to the front and rear looms, then a four-way one connecting the rear feed to the two tail lights and the number plate light.

If you try Tony's method and it tells you the problem is a rear cylinder, go back to Pete's initial reply. Lots of pedal travel isn't necessarily hydraulic, it could be a mechanical adjustment issue.

The Mk1 manifold is a little prone to cracking, especially if the nuts at the two ends are over-tightened. They generally don't tend to spread much, though. If it's blowing, a bit of high temperature epoxy "chemical metal" might do the trick, if you can manage to squeeze it in there.

The notification is slightly different. If someone has replied and quoted you, it says "quoted". If it says "reacted" then it's a like. I don't get notifications of replies, unless quoted, because the forum software can't tell whether a contribution to a thread is specifically in reply to you or just a general comment, of which there are so many that I really wouldn't want to be notified of every one!

The best way to check ignition timing is with a strobe light, ideally one with a "delay" function that allows you to dial in the correct advance and get the strobe at TDC, because not all engines have the graduated scale for setting other angles. The book timing is specified at idle with no vacuum advance, so disconnect (and plug) the little vacuum pipe from the carbs to the distributor. You don't want to cause a leak at the carb, so it needs plugging, but the disi end can be left open. Get the engine warm and let it idle. Put the strobe pickup around the front plug lead and point the strobe at the pulley. It's normally very hard to see the mark on the pulley unless you put a dob of white paint (or Tippex) on it first. The TDC pointer on the timing cover is more obvious but again, a bit of white paint helps. Once you have the idle advance correct, rev the engine up a bit with the strobe still on to confirm that the timing changes (advances) as the revs increase. You're not looking to measure how much, just confirm the mechanism isn't stuck.